[iooi]

Hi & welcome.

So are you getting more than 375 🤣

No one has a EV3 that run in Summer. 🤷‍♂️

I suggest you read this long thread

https://www.kiaownersclub.co.uk/threads/ev3-battery-range-problems.80732/page-13?post_id=565568#post-565568

(2) Driving Range
The range was determined according to the standardised EU measurement procedure (WLTP) on EV3 Air Grade. The individual driving style and other factors, such as speed, outside temperature, topography and the use of electricity-consuming devices/units, have an influence on the real-life range and can possibly reduce it.

Testing a EV will not give you a idea of range, just the same as ICE your MPG never constant or meets WLTP figures.

 

[iooi]

As I said in the other thread. Will be waiting for all the posts in summer about how good the range is 🤢

 

[iooi]

80kw Battery x 3m/kw = 240 miles in winter. x3.5 = 280 Miles Mild Weather. x4 = 320 miles Summer.

3-4 miles per kw is what I'd expect this car to be hitting.

I wished companies would just give expected real range alongside the WLTP max range.

WLTP is the testing std so you can compare cars. Just the same as ICE. Never see many people complain about not getting the WLTP MPG quoted?

What is a expected range?
Far to many variables, driver foot, weather, topography & many more. So even then you are looking at best guess.

 

[iooi]

Out of interest, do ev cars improve mileage figures as miles are put on the car and things loosen up?

Don't think so, as nothing to really loosen up. Drive train is electric motor & reduction gearbox.

 

[iooi]

But the average miles per kwh on the odometer becomes more accurate with the more miles you do?, ( Not for each trip but the long term average)

Average will always be accurate to what it is calculated against. So Power used divided by miles covered.

I could kill my average mi/kWh by simply taking car on a track day. Or even leave car turned on with heat to max on a freezing day. As you are using a lot of electric, but not covering any miles.

 

[iooi]

Eco in E-Niro is more than enough to leave many cars behind.
Even with All Season tyres, it can be kicking in ESC etc.🤣

In reality it more dulls down power & limits some things like heating (can be overridden in settings)

 

[iooi]

The more I read these figures that some drivers are getting, the more I think there is something wrong with my car. I can't get anything near what you are saying, but I was on my eNiro in similar circumstances.

Could be, worth mentioning to dealer, so they have it noted. But I would give it longer. Given EV3 is on egmp platform, wonder if there are some differences in how it works, along with a newer car & updates to the way they work i-pedal etc, compared to your previous EV.

Same as like e-niro is more efficient than the niro ev?

We need to liken this to a ICE & per trip mpg is a meaning less figure, you really need to be looking at average mpg over several brim to brim tanks

Which I like to point to this mpg in my old niro hev. I did this trip many times. Best below, but often got sub 40mpg. There are simply to many variables over single trip stats, even when over the same route. 🤷‍♂️

 

[iooi]

How many things can influence the "miles per kWH" of an EV?

Unlike an ICE vehicle, with a gearbox, it's a very simple drive train. The electric motors in all EVs being built now will have very similar efficiencies. There's probably only a handful of manufacturers producing the drive electronics and battery packs.

The major influences will be weight, drag, and driving style, with some influence from the software (regen, throttle curve).

What I'm getting at is, the same driver, in any new car of similar weight/drag should get very similar miles per kWH.

There's no "magic beans" that makes a car super-economical. No real reason why an EV3 should be too different to previous EVs from Hyundai/Kia.

Some efficiency gains from being a ground-up EV platform, cleverer software, etc. Probably offset by the EV3 being heavier than the Niro, because the battery is bigger in most versions.

In real life, I'd expect the EV3 to be a little worse than the Niro around town (weight) and a little better on a run (drag)

Ignoring driver. Types of road being driven, speed being driven at, road surface. The surface dressed roads take more out of a car than the nice smooth tarmac. Tyre pressures, wet/dry roads, wind direction, temp in car, fan speed, Weight in car. No doubt many more as well.

Far & away the biggest effect is what is sat in the driving seat.

I know from mine the difference a gentle press on throttle compared to pushing down hard makes to efficiency. Do that over a trip & some of the differences in figures are easily explained.

Sadly it is not simple.

 

[iooi]

If stopped using Auto Regen. I live in a residential estate with lots of cars parked on the side of the road, the amount of braking the car does is insane. The final straw that broke the camel's back was when it slammed on the brakes in the motorway, for a car that was way way ahead of me. Gave me such a fright. From then on I just use Regen Level 0

Afraid to say that will be the safety braking (AEB).. Bet the car was more to the left.. You have to watch for this when cars go off on slip roads, even though you know you are well you are safe & the car will continue to the left... That is the one that will catch you out.
Altering regen will make no difference

 

[iooi]

So going back to ICE on cost......Odd then that even the press that like to knock EVs say public charging is no dearer than the petrol equivalent

I did 800 miles on holiday last year in E-Niro, the same as pervious year in a HEV Niro.

EV £107.98
HEV £101.39

& I messed up charging on way home that I did not need to do, but we were having a coffee... Or EV would have been cheaper. All without touching a Tesla charger..

It can be done. All depends.

 

[iooi]

Finally, Bjorn Nyland does an efficiency test and unfortunately it is exactly what many of us have been describing on here i.e. the EV3 is not as good as the e-Niro, Kona etc.



He calculates the range to be 477 km @ 90 km/h. I completely agree with this conclusion, my figures say the same. It is only slightly better than the e-Niro, despite having a 22% bigger battery.

https://www.kiaownersclub.co.uk/threads/bn-gets-the-ev3.82864/?post_id=574566#post-574566

 

[iooi]

I havent trusted the claimed cd on any car for decades; if the aerodynamics of modern cars were as great an improvement as they claim, every ICE car should be getting 100 MPG.
Based on the 0.28 cd of the HUGE 1983 Audi I used to drive - averaging 44MPG at 100 MPH, and a lot more at legal speeds (petrol).

2.5 mile per kWh is 100mpg in a EV. 🤢
That is a bad figure for a EV 🤣

Anyone remember Ford Sierra drag coefficient of 0.34 Was declared a world leader at the time.

ICE is more bound by the thermal efficiency of the engine. F1 manages over 50% & std road car is in the 20 to 30% range. Whereas a EV is in the 70 to 90% motor efficiency range.

 

[iooi]

I do not believe any car manufacturer actually claims a range for their cars, they just report the range achieved under standard test conditions. These conditions are set by regulation and are intended to give a comparative guide not an accurate prediction of the mileage that any individual will acheive. That said I have not noticed manufacturers or sales representatives emphasise this in their sales pitch.

Spot on WLTP standard.

Trouble is people see a figure & that is what they focus on. Despite the "UPTO"

With a EV this is a in your face figure that is seen all the time while driving (GOM) unlike ICE where the MPG is well hidden & only people that keep stats of their usage will ever spot that the quoted mpg, is never reached.

As someone that keeps stats I can happily say that in the time (21 months) I have had my E-Niro I have never hit WLTP figure for the car 282. Lowest has been 290 & best of 323 miles 😍
Clearly the previous owner over 3 years & 9K miles, had also been getting the same. As 1st 100% charge I got was 312 & the drive from the garage home was a long M/way trip, where I realised that in a EV it is far to easy to exceed the limit 🤢

 

[iooi]

Kia do recommend a one a month 100% charge at least on e-niro. For exactly that reason, balance the cells.

 

[iooi]

Hi what regen modes are you using as that can make a difference to recovering energy and extend your range figures.

Poster no longer drives a EV3.

 

[iooi]

But it is a continual question and never goes away, so will be asked again. May have been better if manufacturers had just given percentage charge, just like the old ICE fuel gauge?

Kia do, you have the option on head unit for this 2/3 - 1/3 screen

Although % or a simple miles on GOM, give the driver the same info.

 

[iooi]

300 mile bladder upgrade is not enough, when these diesel owners can do 6/700 miles range 🤣 🤢

 

[iooi]

I've always found it strange when people talk about having a "comfort break" for a P and a coffee so charge their EV then. If I'm on a trip of a few hundred miles and I need a P then it's usually just a "splash and dash" and back on the road, not a 30-45 minute break. Unless you're on a motorway then it's usually in the bushes in a layby so no chargers there! Regularly did round trips from Manchester and Leeds to Hampshire and never stopped on each leg. Obviously I'm unusual or is it an age thing? (approaching the big 6 0 soon so maybe I'll have to think about it?)

Can be a age thing.
But after a couple of hours driving I need a break to stretch legs etc as well. So there is no need for a 30 to 45 min break. If you need to just plug in & do what you need to do. 10 15 mins is enough in reality.
I have 300 mile range. Which is enough to go coast to coast, down to south coast or up to passed Edinburgh. None of these I would do without a stop, for safety as much as anything else.
We do holidays to Norfolk, that's a 4 hour trip. Requires a stop, but no need to charge at all.

In reality the comfort break reason is to counter the ICE perceived range issue. If you have to stop, then you can charge the car at tat point. So you multitask with your EV, rather than having to make a stop to fill up with fuel

 

[iooi]

i-pedal could be part of the issue, as you get no coasting using that. It's either using power, or regen. Which then requires more power to get back up to speed.
Can be same with using paddles.
I just leave paddles alone on same regen setting & then use the brakes as required. As using brakes still prioritises regen, before using physical brakes.