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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there.
So the problem I am having is 'possibly' with the brake/ handbrake.
In short, when I set off driving, the car runs fine, rolls properly, brakes properly, no noises, squeaks or grinding.
BUT, after I have driven roughly 40 miles, the car starts to SLOW.....basically, the brakes seem to engage. NOT THE FRONT, but the rear.

Normally The handbrake, when I engage it, does so easily, and wont go past 4 clicks very easily, before fully engaged. When OFF, the handbrake is loose, and has a little travel before it will start engaging. So I think its set fine.
When I jack the car up, and the handbrake is off, the wheels turn freely, a very slight rasp, but certainly nothing that impedes the turning of the wheels
But EVERY time I drive down the motorway, the rear brakes seem to engage, so much so that, when I do get home, I have to REV the car to overcome the braking force that has developed. This basically means, when I reverse into my driveway, the rear of the car will LIFT whilst I try to reverse into the driveway

NOW, I have removed the wheel, and loosened the 'sprocket', to let the handbrake off a bit, and now it needs lifting past 4 clicks to engage enough to stop it from moving, but the problem is still persisting.

There are zero noises, even when driving, and when the problem raises its head. The disks and pads are nearly new, I have not driven the car that much, due to lockdown etc., but before I send it to a garage for a diagnosis, maybe someone has encountered, or heard a similar problem.
Any help is very much appreciated.
Thank you
 

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Are you sure it is braking? If you have brakes on to the extent that you can notice the drag then wheel hubs will get much hotter than normal so I suggest next time you notice this problem you feel each wheel to see if any of them are unusually hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you sure it is braking? If you have brakes on to the extent that you can notice the drag then wheel hubs will get much hotter than normal so I suggest next time you notice this problem you feel each wheel to see if any of them are unusually hot.
No not sure, but have to hit the motorway tomorrow. Hopefully I can identify something unusual (strange to say that) so I can focus on it to find a solution
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have a look at this.
My Colleague who has my old 2008 Ceed had the same problem

Thats actually great. I have seen the end video on youtube as I searched for some help, but now seeing it related to the first part of the thread, makes it more relevant and useful. Seems I shall try the slacking off of the handbrake some more, then if needs be, take everything off to inspect the inner drums setup. lets hope not, but im only reluctant because of achy joints in the cold. Thanks for that
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So! An update.
I waited for a break in the weather, and took both rear wheels off, and had a look at the calipers and handbrake, and found the left side slightly more engaged than the right. Still rotating, but slightly more effort to rotate it. I adjusted it (handbrake), so they both had the same resistance.
Then I decided to take it for a drive, and after finding that the car rolled far better than before and didn't seem to be having any issues,i took the turn for the motorway, as soon as I was on the motorway, the car started vibrating very, very badly.
Luckily, there is a lay-by 500 yards from where I joined the motorway, and I pulled in, immediately checking my rear wheels, ultimately burning my finger on the left rear drum.
It was 3 hours befoe the truck arrived to take me home, by which time, everything had cooled down sufficiently, that the car would roll "normally".
Today, I have removed everything on both sides, and I HAD presumed that it was caused by the handbrake, but today, I found that once I had removed the calipers, everything rolled freely. I checked all the parts were moving freely on the calipers, nothing was difficult to move, and didnt raise any concerns about how it was operating.
So I replaced everything, and tested it, and found that the left rear was engaging again, which I now presume is because of the caliper, but I cant seem to work out what is wrong. Both sides seem to have been replaced fairly recently, and appear the same, calipers move in and out.

So I'll scratch my head for a day on this, before I decide to have someone look at it for me, or I find a possible solution, thanks
 

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Homing in on the problem then!

If not the handbrake then either the brake piston jamming or the caliper sliders jamming. You can try the following:

Remove caliper and remove brake pads. Carefully apply pressure to brake pedal to move the piston past it's current resting position - this might displace some crud and free it. I would press the piston back and try again a few times just to get it moving repeatedly past it's current "full on" position. Don't press the piston all the way out!

Loosely fit the caliper without pads and then you can move the caliper in and out repeatedly, again the idea is to displace crud which has collected at the current resting position of the caliper, |removnog teh pads allows movement past the current resting position of the caliper. Alternatively separate the two parts of the caliper and clean/lubricate the sliders.

Sometimes it is possible to gently move the rubbers (Piston and calipers) enough to get some lube in behing them but this risks pushing crud further in.
 

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When you have the caliper off, do the pads move easy in the stainless runners and are they greased up (I use mintex ceratex).Does the caliper centre up?, the sliders top & bottom.
Are you sure it's the brakes and not the wheel bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When you have the caliper off, do the pads move easy in the stainless runners and are they greased up (I use mintex ceratex).Does the caliper centre up?, the sliders top & bottom.
Are you sure it's the brakes and not the wheel bearing?
Hi there, don't think its the bearing, I grapple with the wheel before I take it off, and also once everything was off, I spun it with everything off, and no noise or sounds, and free movement. I think I'm going to give it another inspection tomorrow and as Turnup says, get the caliper piston past its normal point of extension to loose it up a bit. The sliders move freely, and both sides left and right look correct with the pads in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Homing in on the problem then!

If not the handbrake then either the brake piston jamming or the caliper sliders jamming. You can try the following:

Remove caliper and remove brake pads. Carefully apply pressure to brake pedal to move the piston past it's current resting position - this might displace some crud and free it. I would press the piston back and try again a few times just to get it moving repeatedly past it's current "full on" position. Don't press the piston all the way out!

Loosely fit the caliper without pads and then you can move the caliper in and out repeatedly, again the idea is to displace crud which has collected at the current resting position of the caliper, |removnog teh pads allows movement past the current resting position of the caliper. Alternatively separate the two parts of the caliper and clean/lubricate the sliders.

Sometimes it is possible to gently move the rubbers (Piston and calipers) enough to get some lube in behing them but this risks pushing crud further in.
The sliders move freely, and I did obviously push the piston in when returning the calipers, but, I didn't exercise it too much. So that is the next step for tomorrow I guess. I did think for a minute that the disks and pads look pretty new, but I've driven about 750 miles with the car so far, and I didn't notice anything. Was thinking I might have to shave the pads a bit, but both sides do look identical,but I do have a vernier guage that I could check it with, maybe there's a few millimeter's extra (1 or 2) . We'll see tomorrow. thanks
 

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I occasionally have had to file the edges of the brake pad metal backing plate because they were slightly oversized/incorrect profile to be a sliding fit in the carrier,indeed I have had a couple of pads that really were far too tight in the carriers but usually carrying out the work on sundays when I could not go and swap for new pads.
I would be very careful about moving the pistons - they are easy to 'pop' right out of the caliper when pressing on brake pedal,I would probably fit some sort of spacer/block inside the caliper so that the piston can only move a certain amount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I occasionally have had to file the edges of the brake pad metal backing plate because they were slightly oversized/incorrect profile to be a sliding fit in the carrier,indeed I have had a couple of pads that really were far too tight in the carriers but usually carrying out the work on sundays when I could not go and swap for new pads.
I would be very careful about moving the pistons - they are easy to 'pop' right out of the caliper when pressing on brake pedal,I would probably fit some sort of spacer/block inside the caliper so that the piston can only move a certain amount.
Hi, yes I've found a small piece of 6 and 9mm marine ply to swap out for the brake pad, so I can get it past its normal point of contact, maybe the movement will allow it to loosen up and be able to retract a tiny bit to reduce friction. Hopefully that is the issue
 
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