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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem with my Sedona water system.


It isn't taking water from the filler tank at the side.



When I have been on a journey the top hose feels very pressurised and when the sytem cools the hose 'sucks in'. A small amount of water has been used and I top up through the top hose (because it doesn't take from the filler tank)



As a test, I took the thermostat out of the radiator as I needed to go on a 200 mile round trip and when I got home the pipe was perfect and the water level was perfect and I assumed that the thermostat was faulty so I purchased a pattern part thermostat but it is doing the same thing again.



My local mechanic (not a Kia workshop) says I should put in a Kia thermostat which I have now ordered.



It isn't fitted yet but I can't see that it will make any difference (we will see) but I wondered if anyone has had this problem.



Thanks, Steve
 

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Speaking as a lay man it sounds to me like air is not getting in or out of the filler tank (expansion tank). On my 2007 model there is a rubber pipe just below the cap on the tank, maybe that is blocked on yours. Or it could be the one way valve in the pressure cap on the engine that is stuck some how and preventing water being drawn back as the engine cools.


Running without a thermostat probably meant the engine didn't get hot enough to expell any water, hence no loss.
 

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Hi, Welcome. Mine had this problem and tried the pointsthat have beenmention. Tw thermos, new rad cap. This now appears to be rectified by replacing the water pipes front to rear heater. The steel water pipes are prown to cooroding and weeping thro before they actually start to leak. This had a knock on effect to the 'suck - pull' that should happenfrom the 'plastic' tank. I fill using the radiator cap. I used a 1.1Lb(pressure) cap for a while to test pressure on rad cap. But this was not a prob so put the 0.9Lb(pressure) cap back on. To replace the pipes front to back in rubber is £2.50pm and 6.5mtrs should do. I am remaking the 'steel' portions of the pipes incopper(15mm) when the weather warms up.
Steve Gx Blackpool
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments.


I've blown through the pipe from the expansion tank and that isn't blocked.



If the pipes to the rear heater are weeping wouldn't I still have had the same problem whilst running without the thermostat? I'm thinking about bypassing the rear heater anyway so maybe that will sort it out.



Thanks again



Steve.
 

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super sprite said:
If the pipes to the rear heater are weeping wouldn't I still have had the same problem whilst running without the thermostat?



Steve.

Running without the thermostat would probably prevent the engine reaching its normal opperating temperature and so not building up as high a pressure in the water system. This in turn could possibly reduce or stopany weeping.

It's the sucking in of the header pipe that had me thinking there must be a blockage preventing water being drawn back. Have you tried releasing the pressure cap on the engine after the cooling has sucked in the pipe, to see if it suddenly admits some air and the pipe returns to normal?
 

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super sprite said:
Thanks for the comments.


I've blown through the pipe from the expansion tank and that isn't blocked.



If the pipes to the rear heater are weeping wouldn't I still have had the same problem whilst running without the thermostat? I'm thinking about bypassing the rear heater anyway so maybe that will sort it out.



Thanks again



Steve.
Hi. Yes I am making a bypass pipe for my 'spares' kit. Just incase the water pipes fail on a run.
Steve Gx Blackpool
 

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Hi Steve, What year/model do you have - what does your temperature gauge read with no thermostat fitted and does the heater work?
Edited by: alcutler
 

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alcutler said:
Hi Steve, What year/model do you have - what does your temperature gauge read with no thermostat fitted and does the heater work?
Sedona 2001 on a 'Y' plate. Heater works front and back and also with rear passengers controlover left slidingdoor. Only ran without thermostat for a short whilegoinr to buy a new one, so did not look at temp gauge. My previos Nissan Vannette I ran with no thermostat for 4 years!.
Steve Gx Blackpool
 

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stevegx said:
alcutler said:
Hi Steve, What year/model do you have - what does your temperature gauge read with no thermostat fitted and does the heater work?
Sedona 2001 on a 'Y' plate. Heater works front and back and also with rear passengers controlover left slidingdoor. Only ran without thermostat for a short whilegoinr to buy a new one, so did not look at temp gauge. My previos Nissan Vannette I ran with no thermostat for 4 years!.
Steve Gx Blackpool
Not you - how many Steves are there! Only joking - my question was aimed at Steve the OP who raised the original Post - just curious as I had problems with coolant loss and no heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Alcutler.


While I was travelling with no thermostat fitted, on the open road the temperature guage hardly moved, it was pretty much at the c (cold) but around town it would rise slightly and the heater in the car was not very warm.



The model is a Sedona LX 52 plate.



I'm still waiting for the Kia thermostat to be delivered and have also ordered a new Kia radiator cap, no idea if it will make any difference - clutching at straws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bluey said:
super sprite said:
If the pipes to the rear heater are weeping wouldn't I still have had the same problem whilst running without the thermostat?



Steve.

Running without the thermostat would probably prevent the engine reaching its normal opperating temperature and so not building up as high a pressure in the water system. This in turn could possibly reduce or stopany weeping.

It's the sucking in of the header pipe that had me thinking there must be a blockage preventing water being drawn back. Have you tried releasing the pressure cap on the engine after the cooling has sucked in the pipe, to see if it suddenly admits some air and the pipe returns to normal?





I have released the cap once the engine is cooled and it has emitted air and the pipe does return to normal, I can't help thinking there is some pressure problem and have ordered a new radiator cap to see if it makes a difference.
 

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The only other thing to do while using it without a thermostat is to partially blank off the radiator with a piece of cardboard - this will cause the engine to run warmer and will improve the heater. You will have to experiment with how much to restrict the radiator to ensure it doesn't overheat.I had a problem with my 2006 Sedona losing coolant and pressure from the system and this was caused by the thin rubber washer that seals the radiator cap (although it isn't on the radiator) to the casting. The casting had been machined and had a sharp edge that was cutting into the washer. I also found that the coolant level only had to fall a small amount before the heater started to run cold. It does sound like you have a thermostat problem and hopefully it will be resolved when you replace it. Replacing the rad cap will not do any harm either.
Good luck with it.
 
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