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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Bought a pro_ceed a couple of weeks ago and yesterday I noticed the car stereo sound has lost its clarity when listening to USB mp3's and fm radio. The sound is like listening on mw! Changed all the tone settings to default and started from scratch and still poor sound quality. Put a normal cd album on and the sound was perfect so don't understand why this is happening on USB and fm. USB is Sandisk so it's not a bad manufacturer.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have booked this in for the dealer to look at tomorrow so will update incase others have this problem in the future.
 

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Thanks, be good to know what was causing it, the wife Picantos gone from good to poor reception on her stereo, I`ve wiggled the aerial and moved it on it`s mounts but it still sounds - not the best.


As yourself though - the CD`s sound great !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dealer advised the whole unit needs to be replaced so ordered it but can take up to 6 weeks to arrive! At least the cd and radio works. Very strange that all of a sudden the fm stations were clear!
 

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I have lots of customers asking me Simular questions about USB , I pods etc . The reason for less clarity and general volume and tone on I pods and USB flash drives is that they loose up to 15% volume on file exchange which is a lot , also when your loading mp3's and songs onto your flash drives and I pods make sure your loading them to 44.1 hz this is the optimum peak level for your speakers and it will sound alot clearer and more crisp .
When cd's are made there already preset to 44.1hz unless there copied .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Appreciate what you have advised but it doesn't explain why one minute my USB socket worked fine and then is muffled whereas in another car (with the same USB stick) the sound if fine. I will bear this in mind when I use USB in future when the unit is changed. Thanks.
 

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It's not going to be down to the USB stick or port or anything like that. Music stored in Mp3 AVI QuickTime ect is all DIGITAL. It either works or it doesn't. Clarity can only be changed by the stereo unit interpretating the data as a different sound. But most likely it's down to the amp or some loose solders, wires or damaged circuit. If the sound is tempremental only on one imput then that's the weak link and hence why the other inputs work. Dodgy link between inputs and amp?

P.s 44.1...... Nice one fella! Will remeber that next time I update my phone music.Edited by: RichieD76
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update....
Complete new head unit arrived & was installed today and sound is now perfect. 3other things I got them to do as well
Programme the auto lock as it was deactivated (why I don't know)
Drivers side one click electric window switch and sensor needed replacing
Front bumper grill clips loose
All done and very happy me. Took 1.5 hours in total at Milton
Keynes Kia.
 

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Dano said:
I have lots of customers asking me Simular questions about USB , I pods etc . The reason for less clarity and general volume and tone on I pods and USB flash drives is that they loose up to 15% volume on file exchange which is a lot , also when your loading mp3's and songs onto your flash drives and I pods make sure your loading them to 44.1 hz this is the optimum peak level for your speakers and it will sound alot clearer and more crisp .
When cd's are made there already preset to 44.1hz unless there copied .

Me thinks you are confused here.

CDs are 44.1Khz, this is the SAMPLING rate, ie 44100 samples per second, this is fairly standard, there is also 32Khz, as used by nicam stereo TV, 48KHz used by higher end and prosumer audio stuff, and 96Khz, used in most pro end audio systems, and now 192Khz used in blueray.

the most common mistakes is using too low a BIT rate on your MP3, I would reccomend 256 as a good(ish) balance between quality and file size, 320 is the best, but also gives the largest file size, 192 is the minimum I would use, and even then only at a push, the bottom end is cut off more, and the top end becomes less crisp.

as to loosing volume, this is usually down the the converter rather than the actual conversion, alot of the converters result in a audio peak level of -4, I use exact audio copy (google for it) if just ripping a CD, this keeps the level as the original, although you may perceive a slight loss in volume due to the compression down to MP3. Good enough for in the car.

Ive not found an all in one solution yet, (ie rip, covert, normalise) but ideally the final MP3 needs to be "normalised" ie get the peak audio to 0db.

It does amuse me that for years people have been striving for better and better quality of sound, think cassette to CD etc, and now going backwards to highly compressed carp in MP3s AACs etc.

for those with cars with USB sockets, most of these will work an external hard drive, it just needs to be formatted in the FAT32 format, rather than the NTFS or other options vista/7 give you.
 

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I'm certainly not confused :/ I've build loads of audio car for modified live events and modified nations for Spl events and I also make my own songs and dubstep remixes for customers and works for me . ( I know the offical name for the rate is kHz but most people in the car audio world call it hz to make it easier )Edited by: Dano
 

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its still the bit rate that makes more difference to the sound than the sample rate, I've engineered sound for plenty of live events both band and theatre using live and recorded sound. and done a bit of studio engineering too.

a 44.1 mp3 at 92Kb/s will still sound carp next to a 44.1 256KB/s mp3 (in fact a 32Khz @256 would sound better)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Most of my mp3's are either 256 or 320 anyway. As long as the sound is clear and crisp for me I am happy. Would love a vinyl deck in the car for thumping bass and better mid range. I read somewhere that CD looses alot of mid range. Alot of people swear vinyl is very clear and gives a warm feeling.
 
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