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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,


Having previously owned a Kia Rio 1.3 from new with no problems for about five years, we bought the very same model (second hand) after the previous car was damaged in an accident and have owned this car for over a year.



Recently the car's steering became very 'vague' and would start to pull towards the centre of the road (right) when accelerating and as soon as the throttle was released to change gear, the car would then pull to the left, this was very worrying. The car would also follow 'tracks' in the tarmac too. After investigation I found that both ball joints on the control arms were badly worn and so I replaced them both (yesterday). Although this has improved the sittuation the car still behaves much the same, only not so severely.



Also, when travelling along and simplypressing the accelerator on and off and not changing gear (testing for steering reaction), the car still pulls to the right and then back to the left, sort of how I'd imagine torque steer works?



Has anyone else's car suffered with this or a similar problem?We'd be grateful for any advice as to how to fix this, perhaps it could be the steering rack, shock absorbers, other wear in anti-roll bar bushes etc?



Oh, wheel bearings all seem fine and tyre pressures set at around 32psi all round.



Other than this 'frightning' problem, the car is good.



Thanks in anticipation,



imc
 

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Hi IMC,


Is there any play in the steering rack? If the ball joints were knackered, the steering rod arm/track rod ends may be bad too. I presume you had the wheels aligned after the ball joints were changed? The other thing to look at is the rod that connects the anti roll bar to the shock absorber. It's quite common for the joints on these to go. I had to have one changed for the MOT on mine. Do you get any knocking sounds when going over bumpy ground?
 

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hi there imc it sounds like you need to check the lower arm bushes for being split or adrift. this is the most common cause for this concern.by the way what you are experiencing is torque steer only a bit more exagerated due to the fault on the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi M4trundler,


Many thanks for your advice. I'd not considered the track rod end ball joints or the rod that you mention (not 100% certain which rod you mean, but does it look like a linkage?)



However, I decided to jack up the front again to check for play while moving the wheels and I'm glad I did because I found that the brand new near side control arm I'd fitted has as much movement in the ball joint as the old one that I'd replaced! What's the chances of that
!Suffice to say I've been back to the part supplier this evening and showed one of their staff (an ex-mechanic) this and another new part has been ordered. I intend fitting the part at their depot tomorrow evening, after I finish work as long as they receive it. I hope this does the trick but if symptoms persist with a good one then I'll be checking out what you've suggested. Not noticed any knocking sounds though.



BTW, I must say that these are the simplest control arms to replace that I've ever done!



As for wheel alignment, I guess I'll have to eliminatethe cause of the problem first but do you have any recomendations for where to have this done, presumably it's not cheap?



Cheers again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello minimee c,


I was writing my previous reply when your post was made. Thanks for the advice re the bushes, some thing else to consider if the second control arm is good but the symtoms persist.



I'll update as things progress.



Cheers.
 

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Hi imc, it happens more often than you might think with new parts.


The rod I was talking about is a linkage that goes vertically from the anti roll bar up the shock absorber. With the pot holes being so bad these days the suspension takes a pounding. There's some quite bad ones on the M4 at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks M4trundler for clarification on the rod.


The saga continues. I changed the control arm with another yesterday evening at their depot carpark andit took only 20mins to remove and replace the control arm's, they are that simple to do! However, the 2nd replacement part had even more play in the ball joint than the one I'd just removed! Shocking to findthat two brand new control arms had at least the same amount of play in the joints as the original factory fitted part that I was replacing!However, the company supplying the part offered me a full refund oralternatively, order me the part direct from Kia at no extra cost to me(no brainer). Today they ordered the part and it may arrive tomorrow, so the wait goes on to see if this will be the total fix or not. It'll be interesting to see how the Kia part compares to the OE pattern part in quality etc. I know that the Kia part price was considerably more than the one's I've had so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I fitted the new Kia OE control arm yesterday evening and yet there was still movement at the ball joint. At this point I realised that I could'nt have had 3 faulty new parts and I spent about another 30 mins of testingand low and behold I found that the movement is in the actual hole where the ball joint is clampted into the hub carrier. The hole has some how become oval and enlarged butthis is hidden from view when clamped in placeby the ball joint rubber boot and gave the impression that it was wear/play in the joints!Ialso inspected the pinch bolt and found wear marksindicating that the ball joint shaft is indeed moving when infact it should be a snug/tight fit, fortunately the pinch bolt isdoing it's job of stopping the shaft from simply dropping down and effectively disconnecting the control arm fron the hub carrier
.
A new hub carrier from Kia is £135+vat but the parts guy sugested that I try a local engineering firm for advice, which I did. They said for £40 they will re-sleeve and re-drill the hub carrier
.



I had considered buying a 2nd hand hub carrier but the parts guy said that it's not that simple as parts are often made to fit vehicles by the chasis number range, so there's a risk of wasting cash on a part that may be slightly different, even if from a car of the same year of registration.



I've never came across this type of wear ever and at a loss how this could have happened
.



Oh, is it possible to add photo's to post's on this forum?



To be continued.........
 

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Hello Newbie, I bought a 2009 model from new & had awful problems with the steering --- sometimes it would under steer & other times oversteer. After two visits to the main dealer -- who assured me nothing was wrong, the mechanic suggested I had 4 wheel laser wheel alignment carried out. It turned out the back wheels were not in line with the front -- the steering prior to this was very vague & the car wandered awful. As soon as I drove away after having the alignment corrected it was a different car. ATS will check this for you & not charge if no adjustment needed. ( In 2009 the charge was £30 )
Good Luck
Nick 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers Nick 1,


Once I've managed to have the hub carrier repared or replaced I'll see how things go and no doubt have the wheel alignment checked out. TBC....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Having removed the hub carrier and the newly fitted control arm on Wednesday evening, I took them both to the engineering company on Thursday morning, before Good Friday. Later in the day I collected the parts, the hub carrier had been drilled out, and a bush glued in place and reamed to fit the bottom ball joint on the control arm. They had done a first class repair for £40, compared to £135 + vat for a new hub carrier - and that doesn't include the wheel bearing kit! The company is called MILBOR ENGINEERING, close to Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire. After refitting and a road test I'm pleased to say that the stearing issues have been resolved and the car drives as it should. I expect to have the tracking checked and adjusted. The removal of the hub was not 100% straight forward as the two bolts that secure the shock absorber to the hub carrier were seized in and required using a hammer to get them moving! The ABS sensor (which is plastic) was seized into the steel of the hub carrier (common) and I had to unplugit's cableconnector which is located behind the inner plastic of the wheel arch, towards the front of the car, behind the wing, this allowed the hub carrier to be removed with the sensor left in the hub and not destroyed by trying to remove it (again which is common - so beware!). I fitted a new drive shaft nut, pinch boltand nut - Kia garage - cost £14!!!!
. Cheapish new cars but not parts
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If any one can offer an explanation as to how the mounting hole in the hub carrier could ever have become worn in the manner it did, please do. The Kia garage told me they'd never heard of it before. Nor have I.



Probably would have cost I.R.O. £500 for the garage to do this job with new hub etc.- at a guess?



If my experience helps other owners with similar problems that'd be great. Oh, and I used copper slip on re-assembly of the bolts and on threads.



Thanks for all the suggestions here
.
 

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I thought my inner tie rods were bad (lots of play) but when I got down to it I had a bushel of rust come out of the steering rack boot!! Had holes in the boot and New England winters, salt and sand it didn't take long for my 2012 Rio to need a steering rack, one thing I cant get it out, everything disconnected I cant get the spline piece out from the fire wall?? Does any one know what Im not doing? Do I have to lower the sub frame a little?
 
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