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Similar figures here in mine early to mid 20's round town and mid 30's on the motorway. I very rarely have the air conditioning on, so not sure what impact that has and mine is the 4wd one. Is it great on fuel...nope.....do I care....nope :)

Even if I could save a few quid a year by jumping into a diesel model I wouldn't as I personally prefer petrol cars, do less than 10K PA and most journeys are say 15 - 30 mins (but I appreciate everyone is different and we all have different needs, tastes and finances).

DCT is fine for me, but I have been driving DSG's in previous cars. Wife is still trying to get to grips with it and we aren't doing a lot of driving in the current climate. I tend to put auto hold on also.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
That’s good to hear accygtline. Have the same engine etc as yours with AWD. I knew the mpg wasn’t going to be high when buying the car but just wanted to check if what I was getting was about right or lower but sounds like it probably is correct so that’s fine.
its a really run car to drive with plenty of acceleration, especially for a heavy car.

I’ve also had diesel cars in past but much prefer petrol so went for that. Although I have read that it too has the particulate filter fitted as well so hoping this doesn’t cause issues down the line.

yeah DCT has been great. First time I’ve driven a car with a gearbox like this but love it already. I’m surprised I read so many negative things about it prior to getting one but I personally like it.
 

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That’s good to hear accygtline. Have the same engine etc as yours with AWD. I knew the mpg wasn’t going to be high when buying the car but just wanted to check if what I was getting was about right or lower but sounds like it probably is correct so that’s fine.
its a really run car to drive with plenty of acceleration, especially for a heavy car.

I’ve also had diesel cars in past but much prefer petrol so went for that. Although I have read that it too has the particulate filter fitted as well so hoping this doesn’t cause issues down the line.

yeah DCT has been great. First time I’ve driven a car with a gearbox like this but love it already. I’m surprised I read so many negative things about it prior to getting one but I personally like it.
Hi Daveyboy123

Have you tried using the Auto Hold feature , its quite handy when stuck in stop start traffic you can find on motorways at peak times or when there has been an accident etc ( yes I know at the moment that's a rare thing but it will be back) It is also quite handy in normal queuing traffic in towns and the like.
 

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The ONLY way to drive it IMHO...

  • Sport Mode ON
  • Flick gear lever to the RIGHT to engage manual mode
  • Change gears yourself using the paddles
Gives you ALL of the power ALL of the time but you don't HAVE to use it - you decide when to change gear and how fast you want to go, meaning you can drive with optimal economy when you need it, or to have a squirt of power when you need it.
 

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The ONLY way to drive it IMHO...

  • Sport Mode ON
  • Flick gear lever to the RIGHT to engage manual mode
  • Change gears yourself using the paddles
Gives you ALL of the power ALL of the time but you don't HAVE to use it - you decide when to change gear and how fast you want to go, meaning you can drive with optimal economy when you need it, or to have a squirt of power when you need it.
Conscious of the OP’s alarm at his fuel consumption,

MPG - I’ve been driving around town and currently even with a light foot the mpg I’m getting is around 21mpg. Is that about right or should it be higher?
I would be loath to encourage him to drive in Sport mode for any length of time. There is no more power available in Sport than there is in Normal or ECO, where applicable, but there will be a marked increase in fuel gulping by utilising Sport. Keeping the car in a lower gear than the car would select left to its own devices may ensure that there is a sharp response to throttle input but there is no more power.

There are circumstances where brief use of Sport and manual gearchanging can be useful but driving constantly in Sport creates increased cabin noise and spoils fuel economy. That’s ok for those with deep pockets but there are other SUVs better equipped if one wants to drive the vehicle as if it were a sports car.
 

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The ONLY way to drive it IMHO...

  • Sport Mode ON
  • Flick gear lever to the RIGHT to engage manual mode
  • Change gears yourself using the paddles
Gives you ALL of the power ALL of the time but you don't HAVE to use it - you decide when to change gear and how fast you want to go, meaning you can drive with optimal economy when you need it, or to have a squirt of power when you need it.
I'd soon get very bored of that, might as well save the extra money and get a manual.
I defy anyone to drive it the way you've suggested for any extended period when they know they have the option of shoving it into D instead.
It's like you're playing an F1 video game, but in an SUV..... 😕
 

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Conscious of the OP’s alarm at his fuel consumption,
OP just asked if it was about right or should be a little higher. This is the second post in this thread where you have put words into the OPs mouth about 'shock' or 'alarm'. He has even said specifically that it doesn't sound as though it is too far off the expected mark and that he knew mpg wouldn't be great.

Calm down, not everyone is all that bothered about mpg, especially people who don't do a high mileage. I'm one of them, happy to pay a little more at the pump in exchange for smoothness and quietness.

I only do about 5k miles a year, so let's do some maths:
5000 miles at 30 mpg = 167 gallons of fuel. At current prices of about £4.70 a gallon, that's £781 a year on petrol
5000 miles at 45 mpg = 111 gallons of fuel. At current prices of about £5.00 a gallon, that's £555 a year on diesel

So running the car on petrol is £226 a year more expensive. My friend just bought a car very similar to mine, same age, same spec, similar mileage except his is a 2.0 diesel auto whereas mine is a 1.6t gdi DCT. Both 2017 GT-Line S models, in black, so more or less identical apart from the engine and gearbox. But, his car cost him £1000 more than mine, because it's a diesel and they hold price better. So if I had bought his car instead of mine, it would take about four years for that 'terrible mpg' to actually put me behind financially, or about 2.5 to 3 years including the road tax difference - and in all that time i'll have been enjoying a smoother, quieter car. I'll take that, thanks, especially since I tend to keep cars for a number of years during which they depreciate to a very low price anyway.

BTW the long-term MPG gauge in my dash is currently showing 32.2 mpg (I have never reset it) so assuming an average of 45 is roughly what the diesel of closest equivalent power would return, the fuel costs figures are actually even closer than the workings above.
 

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Just been and taken a picture of my readout:

2487.2 miles since I reset the accumulated info screen and it reads 27.2 mpg 37.49h

Fuel economy bar/chart thing reads: 31.1 mpg

Total miles since new: 2662

Should give you an idea and my office is literally 5 minutes from my house, so I cycle when it is nice and I am not seeing clients. Bar the odd run down the motorway now and then, most journeys I do would be 10 - 40 mins max (and most would be sub 30 minutes).

Gave my Golf R estate back and that had similar average MPG so not worried (I know it's not brim to brim and not calculated using a spreadsheet - but honestly I have other things to do in my time lol).

Just enjoy it for what it is in my opinion.
 
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OP just asked if it was about right or should be a little higher. This is the second post in this thread where you have put words into the OPs mouth about 'shock' or 'alarm'. He has even said specifically that it doesn't sound as though it is too far off the expected mark and that he knew mpg wouldn't be great.

Calm down, not everyone is all that bothered about mpg, especially people who don't do a high mileage. I'm one of them, happy to pay a little more at the pump in exchange for smoothness and quietness.

I only do about 5k miles a year, so let's do some maths:
5000 miles at 30 mpg = 167 gallons of fuel. At current prices of about £4.70 a gallon, that's £781 a year on petrol
5000 miles at 45 mpg = 111 gallons of fuel. At current prices of about £5.00 a gallon, that's £555 a year on diesel

So running the car on petrol is £226 a year more expensive. My friend just bought a car very similar to mine, same age, same spec, similar mileage except his is a 2.0 diesel auto whereas mine is a 1.6t gdi DCT. Both 2017 GT-Line S models, in black, so more or less identical apart from the engine and gearbox. But, his car cost him £1000 more than mine, because it's a diesel and they hold price better. So if I had bought his car instead of mine, it would take about four years for that 'terrible mpg' to actually put me behind financially, or about 2.5 to 3 years including the road tax difference - and in all that time i'll have been enjoying a smoother, quieter car. I'll take that, thanks, especially since I tend to keep cars for a number of years during which they depreciate to a very low price anyway.

BTW the long-term MPG gauge in my dash is currently showing 32.2 mpg (I have never reset it) so assuming an average of 45 is roughly what the diesel of closest equivalent power would return, the fuel costs figures are actually even closer than the workings above.
I can see why you're not bothered about the extra expense of the petrol.
When you only do 5000 miles a year it's debatable whether any car makes sense at all, so you're as well hung for a sheep as a lamb. :LOL:
Joking apart, there is another side to the poor MPG argument other than money.
It shows the engines are inefficient compared with the competition, simple as that.
The running costs of our diesel Sportage are in line with something far bigger and/or faster......that's a little annoying.....
 

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I would agree with PicantoABZ - I don't think the engines are particularly efficient...but then I got no where near the claimed MPG in my Golf R, nor the Cupra or Type R...the type r was terrible. Would just do 30 on a near 3 hour trip down to Portsmouth!

At the end of the day, it is a nice big family car with loads of gadgets (half of which I know I will never use) that costs about the same in fuel as my previous cars in MPG terms (although now I am not forced to use super unleaded so its actually cheaper for me). My insurance is less which is a saving and there are about 8 of them down the street (3 on my cul de sac) so I no longer worry about being broken into or car jacked in the morning.

Will I keep it past the 3 year PCP.....knowing me probably not lol. But would I have another Kia? Perhaps...I like the sound of the electric vehicle they plan to bring out that does sub 3 seconds to 60 :p
 

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This is the second post in this thread where you have put words into the OPs mouth about 'shock' or 'alarm'.
Yes, ‘mr_mike’, you are quite right; my choice of words wasn’t the best. Perhaps I should have said, ’surprise’ or ‘disappointment’. Clearly, he wanted some clarification, hence his question to which I responded similarly to your answer.

As for the maths you supplied, you really needn’t have gone to so much trouble as I’m sure most readers of car forums are well aware of the pros and cons of the diesel/petrol differences. You made it very clear that you are a big fan of the petrol engine as are many others. Choice is great, however, and diesel will still be around for many years and will probably see me out.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi Daveyboy123

Have you tried using the Auto Hold feature , its quite handy when stuck in stop start traffic you can find on motorways at peak times or when there has been an accident etc ( yes I know at the moment that's a rare thing but it will be back) It is also quite handy in normal queuing traffic in towns and the like.
Yes used it a couple of times but always forget to switch on. I wonder why they left as a setting to turn on opposed to a setting you could turn off if you wanted? Seems it aids the driver but it’s default is off.
My understanding is it just activates brakes whenever you are stopped and you can take foot off brake pedal. Is that correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
OP just asked if it was about right or should be a little higher. This is the second post in this thread where you have put words into the OPs mouth about 'shock' or 'alarm'. He has even said specifically that it doesn't sound as though it is too far off the expected mark and that he knew mpg wouldn't be great.

Calm down, not everyone is all that bothered about mpg, especially people who don't do a high mileage. I'm one of them, happy to pay a little more at the pump in exchange for smoothness and quietness.

I only do about 5k miles a year, so let's do some maths:
5000 miles at 30 mpg = 167 gallons of fuel. At current prices of about £4.70 a gallon, that's £781 a year on petrol
5000 miles at 45 mpg = 111 gallons of fuel. At current prices of about £5.00 a gallon, that's £555 a year on diesel

So running the car on petrol is £226 a year more expensive. My friend just bought a car very similar to mine, same age, same spec, similar mileage except his is a 2.0 diesel auto whereas mine is a 1.6t gdi DCT. Both 2017 GT-Line S models, in black, so more or less identical apart from the engine and gearbox. But, his car cost him £1000 more than mine, because it's a diesel and they hold price better. So if I had bought his car instead of mine, it would take about four years for that 'terrible mpg' to actually put me behind financially, or about 2.5 to 3 years including the road tax difference - and in all that time i'll have been enjoying a smoother, quieter car. I'll take that, thanks, especially since I tend to keep cars for a number of years during which they depreciate to a very low price anyway.

BTW the long-term MPG gauge in my dash is currently showing 32.2 mpg (I have never reset it) so assuming an average of 45 is roughly what the diesel of closest equivalent power would return, the fuel costs figures are actually even closer than the workings above.
Correct, I just wanted to know if what I was getting was close to what others got or if it should be returning higher but if it’s about right then that’s fine. I came from a cee’d 1.0 turbo where I would get 33-35mpg around town but the engine was smaller and car much lighter. So I knew mpg was never going to match what I had as that’s why I went for the 1.6t engine as I wanted a car that was quicker which I’m glad to say most definitely is :) but knew the mpg would not be as good. Can’t have it all can we.
 

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Yes used it a couple of times but always forget to switch on. I wonder why they left as a setting to turn on opposed to a setting you could turn off if you wanted? Seems it aids the driver but it’s default is off.
My understanding is it just activates brakes whenever you are stopped and you can take foot off brake pedal. Is that correct?
Yes that's correct its more use in tailbacks on motorways but still comes in handy in other queuing situations.
 

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The auto hold is great but it does leave your brake lights on which is very annoying especially at night. I personally use the hold button that has to be activated manually, but does not activate the brake lights and is far more considerate to following road users.
 

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Conscious of the OP’s alarm at his fuel consumption,



I would be loath to encourage him to drive in Sport mode for any length of time. There is no more power available in Sport than there is in Normal or ECO, where applicable, but there will be a marked increase in fuel gulping by utilising Sport. Keeping the car in a lower gear than the car would select left to its own devices may ensure that there is a sharp response to throttle input but there is no more power.

There are circumstances where brief use of Sport and manual gearchanging can be useful but driving constantly in Sport creates increased cabin noise and spoils fuel economy. That’s ok for those with deep pockets but there are other SUVs better equipped if one wants to drive the vehicle as if it were a sports car.
Just because all the power is available doesn't mean all the power needs to be used. 15+ years ago cars didn't have "modes" - the only way to control performance & economy was your right foot and nobody complained about that.... that's all I'm suggesting - give yourself all options and then apply common sense.,
 

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I'd soon get very bored of that, might as well save the extra money and get a manual.
I defy anyone to drive it the way you've suggested for any extended period when they know they have the option of shoving it into D instead.
It's like you're playing an F1 video game, but in an SUV..... 😕
I don't want a manual. Reaching down to change gear, having an achy left foot in slow moving traffic - why would anyone want that in 2020?
But I also prefer to control the gearbox myself as "D" has constant & unnecessary cog swapping - robs you of power when you want it by an unfortunate upshift, robs you of economy when it holds th car in 5th gear when 6th or 7th would actually be more appropriate given your judgement of the road ahead.

I defy anyone to return fuel economy or performance driving in D that I can get from driving in manual - with all the benefits of it not actually being a 3 pedal car with a mechanical gearstick.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
The auto hold is great but it does leave your brake lights on which is very annoying especially at night. I personally use the hold button that has to be activated manually, but does not activate the brake lights and is far more considerate to following road users.
Sorry, how do you mean? I thought by switching on auto hold you take foot off brake and it holds car without brake lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Also one thing I forgot to ask previously.

when stationary, so at traffic lights etc, I’ve read conflicting things. Some say you should put into neutral to stop wear on the clutch and others (including videos online) state there is no need to put into neutral as when the car comes to a stop then the clutches are disengaged automatically.

I assume that it’s fine then to leave in D and brake on at a stop?
 
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