Kia Owners Club Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I’ve just returned from an extended holiday, the battery was totally dead, I’ve removed completed a recon charge via my CTEK charger using the agm option, after refitting the battery all the lights came on, can’t turn them off, the front a rear wipers came on, managed to get them turned off, the headlamp washers came on .... but no dash lights and the vehicle will not start.... at a loss can anybody shed some light as to what I need to do .... I’ve had to disconnect the battery to shut the electrics down.... oh and it sounds as though a pump is running 😩
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Hi, I’ve just returned from an extended holiday, the battery was totally dead, I’ve removed completed a recon charge via my CTEK charger using the agm option, after refitting the battery all the lights came on, can’t turn them off, the front a rear wipers came on, managed to get them turned off, the headlamp washers came on .... but no dash lights and the vehicle will not start.... at a loss can anybody shed some light as to what I need to do .... I’ve had to disconnect the battery to shut the electrics down.... oh and it sounds as though a pump is running 😩
Hi , I had the Same happen to me on my works van , only I fitted new battery and when I put the connection on I had lights , wipers , fans etc all working without the key in ? Had to disconnect the battery to stop , in the end van had to go to the main dealers to have the ecu etc reset, hopefully yours won’t , they told me that I spiked the terminals when connecting them up , anyone else done that ? .hope you soon get sorted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks for that, that was the line I was going down.... but hoping it wasn’t 😏....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,219 Posts
Disconnect the battery and leave it for 30 mins or so. When re-connecting try to make the final connection cleanly and positively - no dabbing on and off just a clean swift plonk it on and do up the clamp. This might trigger the alarm but ignore it until you have the clamp tightened up and then turn on the ignition.

This is basically what a dealer will do for "ECU reset".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your help, I’ll give that a go in the morning, although I have already done that, it won’t hurt to repeat... I gave since noticed the main fuse has blown (positive terminal).... so I’ll replace that and then try... but thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
My wifes Soul (65) had an issue. Wouldn't hold a lot of charge but enough to get it started day after day. Prolonged drain, such as doors left open with interior light left on whilst working on the inside would show its weakness.
It had an overnight complete discharge early in the year and I think that took its toll. I could re charge and it would be ok but soon discharged.
A multimeter check showed a slight drain which reduced over about 20 min and I could hear a faint 'motor' sound. I think it was the canbus shutting down.
Loses cut and new battery fitted and all good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Please let us know how it goes
Ordered the fuse, apparently the wrong fuse was fitted (from new) the blown fuse was rated at 150a and it should be as the parts catalogue states 180a based on the registration, so that didn’t help.... once it’s fitted I’ll update here... thanks again for your help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
My wifes Soul (65) had an issue. Wouldn't hold a lot of charge but enough to get it started day after day. Prolonged drain, such as doors left open with interior light left on whilst working on the inside would show its weakness.
It had an overnight complete discharge early in the year and I think that took its toll. I could re charge and it would be ok but soon discharged.
A multimeter check showed a slight drain which reduced over about 20 min and I could hear a faint 'motor' sound. I think it was the canbus shutting down.
Loses cut and new battery fitted and all good.
That may well be the end result, if only for peace of mind, wouldn’t want all this hassle just because the battery needs charging 🤨
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
For future reference - with a ctek type battery conditioner there is no need to disconnect or remove the battery from the car to charge the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
For future reference - with a ctek type battery conditioner there is no need to disconnect or remove the battery from the car to charge the battery.
Hi, no your right and I’m aware of that, but in this instance the vehicles parked at the mother-in-laws, and there was no way of me running a lead from the house to the charger without it being visible.... so regretfully had no other option but to remove it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So, I’m picking up the fuse from Kia Tuesday, is there any thing I need to do prior to starting the car... is there a procedure...?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi I had an issue with my , new to me, 2013 Sportage. The stop start light wouldn't got out so following a thread on here took battery off and charged overnight then re connected and left it on car connected for 8 hours before turning anything on. Been perfect since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for that, l’ve read in the forum something similar, I think Kia’s recommendation is 4hrs, not totally sure... but if I can get the battery on without the fuse blowing, and the electrics behaving themselves 🤞 I’ll leave it overnight to make sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok.... fitted new main fuse, dropped negative terminal sharply onto battery post .... 💥 blown, so it’s something causing a 180amp fuse to blow .... so any ideas will be much appreciated before it goes into the dealer .....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,219 Posts
Something majorly wrong there. There are no obvious causes for in excess of 180 amp load just by connecting the battery and trouble shooting is also difficult and will eat fuses so I think this is a dealer job.

Please keep us up to date with this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Not a bad shout, except at £23 a fuse... unless I could test it without a fuse in place, I’ve got a multimeter, but to be honest only use it for straight forward problems, not got the competence to explore further unless any of you good folk could guide me.... btw I’m very appreciative of the response I’ve had since posting this subject, thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,219 Posts
The fault current is so large that there are very few testers which would help. The suggestion from noublue is a possibility but I doubt that even if all diodes were shorted (which is most unlikely) it would not draw that kind of current. At 180 amps the fault curcuit has a resistance of less than 0.07 ohms and even a chafed starter motor wire us unlikely to ground itself that well. Most of the "ordinary" wiring in the car would melt before the fuse blows so the problem lies somewhere that is served by chunky cables. Are you sure the battery is wired correctly? We had a member on here who actually put his battery in the wrong way round and even that did not blow the main fuse (did lots of other damage though).
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top