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<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">Issue with a late 2006 Sedona. Returned to dealer under warranty 4 years ago with binding brakes, they changed the pads, discs and I assume they carried out the servo adjustment. Everything was fine after that.
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">

<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">Fitted new front brake pads 3 months ago, done around 1500 miles since, no problems. Wife complained last week of a loss of power and burning smell. Checked it and found the front OS to be binding.


Assumed it was the servo problem again, got a copy of the bulletin from some of the kind folks on here.

Jacked up the front wheel and confirmed that it was binding. Loosened off the two 12mm nuts holding the master cylinder to the servo, under the assumption that loosening and seperating from the servo would provide enough clearance to allow the master cylinder to release. The wheel was still binding.

Took the calliper off, removed pads and gave everything a good clean. When pushing the pistons in during reinstallation I found the bottom one to be very sticky - a lot of force required to push it in. Top piston was moving fine, so I figure this rules out a wider hydraulic problem or pinched hose.

I pushed the bottom out a bit and attempted to clean around it with Q tips and brake fluid. Actuated it in and out a few times, still a bit stiff to push back in, but running out off time so reassembled. Test drive and check when I got back, still binding !!

Looked on the Web for a new calliper - thought it the quickest way to fix - up to 2006, price for a pattern part was £60, tried to order one, got the response that no pattern part yet existed for the >2006 Sedona. Rang the Kia dealer for a price - £300, plus the news that there was no stock in Europe !!!

New piston and seal kit £20, so have ordered this and will fit this weekend.

Now some questions,

Can anyone spot a flaw in my argument so far (I'm assuming that replacing the piston is a better option than trying to clean the old one and reuse the seals) ?

To work on the calliper I plan to take it off the car, so procedure I have in mind is to seal the brake reservoir with cling film to air lock and minimise fluid loss. Then I'll remove the brake hose from the calliper and drain the calliper body through the bleed nipple. I'll bring it indoors, strip, clean, lubricate with red brake grease, assemble with new piston, fill body up with brake fluid and reassemble.

For bleeding I'm assuming that I start at the rear ns, then the front os, then rear os, then front ns - correct ? Can i bleed with the wheels on, or do I need jack and wheels off for access ?

Thanks for any advice.

Darren
 

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dwalke15 said:
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">Issue with a late 2006 Sedona. Returned to dealer under warranty 4 years ago with binding brakes, they changed the pads, discs and I assume they carried out the servo adjustment. Everything was fine after that.
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">

<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">Fitted new front brake pads 3 months ago, done around 1500 miles since, no problems. Wife complained last week of a loss of power and burning smell. Checked it and found the front OS to be binding.


Assumed it was the servo problem again, got a copy of the bulletin from some of the kind folks on here.

Jacked up the front wheel and confirmed that it was binding. Loosened off the two 12mm nuts holding the master cylinder to the servo, under the assumption that loosening and seperating from the servo would provide enough clearance to allow the master cylinder to release. The wheel was still binding.

Took the calliper off, removed pads and gave everything a good clean. When pushing the pistons in during reinstallation I found the bottom one to be very sticky - a lot of force required to push it in. Top piston was moving fine, so I figure this rules out a wider hydraulic problem or pinched hose.

I pushed the bottom out a bit and attempted to clean around it with Q tips and brake fluid. Actuated it in and out a few times, still a bit stiff to push back in, but running out off time so reassembled. Test drive and check when I got back, still binding !!

Looked on the Web for a new calliper - thought it the quickest way to fix - up to 2006, price for a pattern part was £60, tried to order one, got the response that no pattern part yet existed for the >2006 Sedona. Rang the Kia dealer for a price - £300, plus the news that there was no stock in Europe !!!

New piston and seal kit £20, so have ordered this and will fit this weekend.

Now some questions,

Can anyone spot a flaw in my argument so far (I'm assuming that replacing the piston is a better option than trying to clean the old one and reuse the seals) ?

To work on the calliper I plan to take it off the car, so procedure I have in mind is to seal the brake reservoir with cling film to air lock and minimise fluid loss. Then I'll remove the brake hose from the calliper and drain the calliper body through the bleed nipple. I'll bring it indoors, strip, clean, lubricate with red brake grease, assemble with new piston, fill body up with brake fluid and reassemble.

For bleeding I'm assuming that I start at the rear ns, then the front os, then rear os, then front ns - correct ? Can i bleed with the wheels on, or do I need jack and wheels off for access ?

Thanks for any advice.

Darren
With front disc brakes unfortunately pistons sticking is just one of those things a bit of very small grit or even the dust from the pads can and will cause them to bind/stick.. As far a bleeding goes before removing the flexible brake hose at the caliper end(I'm assuming you dont have a brake hose clip) clamp the hose with a pair of mole grips if you have a bit of rubber or cardboard the put between the jaws and the hose to protect it. This will do away with the need to bleed all the brake system, you will only need to bleed the caliper you've took off. On a safety note make sure that when replacing the piston not to catch or tear the seal on the piston. Bleed with the wheel off if you are unsure just put more brake fluid through it to make sure.
 

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Hi, problems arise when the weather seal has a split, this inturn allows dirt and damp to accumulate under the piston seal, rusting the area creating more pressure on the piston making it very tight to move. therefore make sure you clean the seal recess of all traces of rust grime whatever.
 

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bruno1926 said:
dwalke15 said:
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">Issue with a late 2006 Sedona. Returned to dealer under warranty 4 years ago with binding brakes, they changed the pads, discs and I assume they carried out the servo adjustment. Everything was fine after that.
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">

<div style="font-family: Helvetica; line-height: normal; font-size: medium; ">Fitted new front brake pads 3 months ago, done around 1500 miles since, no problems. Wife complained last week of a loss of power and burning smell. Checked it and found the front OS to be binding.


Assumed it was the servo problem again, got a copy of the bulletin from some of the kind folks on here.

Jacked up the front wheel and confirmed that it was binding. Loosened off the two 12mm nuts holding the master cylinder to the servo, under the assumption that loosening and seperating from the servo would provide enough clearance to allow the master cylinder to release. The wheel was still binding.

Took the calliper off, removed pads and gave everything a good clean. When pushing the pistons in during reinstallation I found the bottom one to be very sticky - a lot of force required to push it in. Top piston was moving fine, so I figure this rules out a wider hydraulic problem or pinched hose.

I pushed the bottom out a bit and attempted to clean around it with Q tips and brake fluid. Actuated it in and out a few times, still a bit stiff to push back in, but running out off time so reassembled. Test drive and check when I got back, still binding !!

Looked on the Web for a new calliper - thought it the quickest way to fix - up to 2006, price for a pattern part was £60, tried to order one, got the response that no pattern part yet existed for the >2006 Sedona. Rang the Kia dealer for a price - £300, plus the news that there was no stock in Europe !!!

New piston and seal kit £20, so have ordered this and will fit this weekend.

Now some questions,

Can anyone spot a flaw in my argument so far (I'm assuming that replacing the piston is a better option than trying to clean the old one and reuse the seals) ?

To work on the calliper I plan to take it off the car, so procedure I have in mind is to seal the brake reservoir with cling film to air lock and minimise fluid loss. Then I'll remove the brake hose from the calliper and drain the calliper body through the bleed nipple. I'll bring it indoors, strip, clean, lubricate with red brake grease, assemble with new piston, fill body up with brake fluid and reassemble.

For bleeding I'm assuming that I start at the rear ns, then the front os, then rear os, then front ns - correct ? Can i bleed with the wheels on, or do I need jack and wheels off for access ?

Thanks for any advice.

Darren
With front disc brakes unfortunately pistons sticking is just one of those things a bit of very small grit or even the dust from the pads can and will cause them to bind/stick.. As far a bleeding goes before removing the flexible brake hose at the caliper end(I'm assuming you dont have a brake hose clip) clamp the hose with a pair of mole grips if you have a bit of rubber or cardboard the put between the jaws and the hose to protect it. This will do away with the need to bleed all the brake system, you will only need to bleed the caliper you've took off. On a safety note make sure that when replacing the piston not to catch or tear the seal on the piston. Bleed with the wheel off if you are unsure just put more brake fluid through it to make sure.
Hi Darren - Bruno's advice is right - clamp the flexible brake hose to the caliper you're removing and it will only be necessary to bleed that one caliper when you replace it. Also try contacting this guy[email protected] several other members have used him to get parts and he may be able to assist in supplying a used caliper. I understand he breaks Sedonas including later models and has helped others in the past. Have you tried Ebay?

Edited by: alcutler
 

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I've had binding brakes on and off.
Fitted new pads, caliper discs. Done push rod adjustment. Still binding.

THEN A BRAIN WAVE...........didn't fit shims supplied. RESULT no more brakes binding.
 
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