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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 Sorento over time both key fobs (not built into key) became difficult, button press repeatedly and holding for a long time to take effect. Replaced both fob batteries now I have not got any locking / unlocking using either fob. Fobs both flash when pressed. Key locks / unlock / start etc. If I use key to enter, when I turn ign tto on / start then all indicators come on until I have pressed the unlock button.
Tried re-programming method using wire from + battery to pin 6 of diagnostic plug and pressing lock when in position '1'. It looks like it's worked then back to square 1.
Any newer programming method for 2006 model please or any suggestions. Thanks.
 

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Sounds like ariel issue in car.
 

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The aerial for the central locking is located in the Etacs unit. The ring around the barrel is the immobiliser.
 

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....and the ATACS unit/controller is located behind the heater contols in the center, but it's quite deep in there because I wanted to delete the bonging tone but gave up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure that this is going in the right direction.. Mine has a seperate key and 4 button fob.
9438
9439

Correct me if I'm wrong but surely the key(s) have an internal transponder in the moulding which links to the barrel aerial coil to activate / disengage the immobiliser. This part of the system must be OK because I am able to start the car with either key.
The c/l does not operate with the fob nor does the panic button. When I use the key the c/l all locks / unlocks..
When I insert the key into the ign switch and turn to position '1' both indicator arrows light on the panel and by pressing the unlock button on (either) fob that is turned off. The car then behaves perfectly and AFAK everything is functioning normally.
I haven't tried to trigger the alarm?
I am assuming that all that is required is coding the fob to the ETACS unit.
I followed a procedure from another thread to reset using a wire from batt+ to diagnostic port pin '6', and nothing changes. I am thinking that my car may have a later (facelift?) version of the Etacs and therefore a different coding method is needed.

Any suggestions gratefully received.
Thanks.
Bob.
 

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Yes you understand it correctly. 06 can be either first model or the facelift with the 168hp engine. Check whether pin 6 is actually wired as they stopped wiring them to prevent you self pairing , If 6 is not wired you will need dealer to do it with their laptop plugged in.
 

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Just as a general comment about key fobs which may not be relevant to this issue but is worth bearing in mind - when I acquired my Sorento (2006 model) around six months ago the key fob only worked on the rear window. Resigned myself to key-only locking and unlocking. Then I took the fob apart, and was amazed to discover how greasy and dirty it was inside. I cleaned it all out, and since then it has worked perfectly, fingers crossed. The reason why only the back window button worked was because I think it was rarely used and so hadn't accumulated any scunge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes you understand it correctly. 06 can be either first model or the facelift with the 168hp engine. Check whether pin 6 is actually wired as they stopped wiring them to prevent you self pairing , If 6 is not wired you will need dealer to do it with their laptop plugged in.
Thank You Birdman. You are right pin 6 is not connected :-(
The next question is - anyone have any idea how much Kia might charge to pair two fobs?
Thank You.
Bob
 

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you might try cleaning the fob circuit board with cotton bud and wd40 and a gentle blow of compressed air if you have access to it, they can get grubby shorting out the battery and pulling down the voltage,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you might try cleaning the fob circuit board with cotton bud and wd40 and a gentle blow of compressed air if you have access to it, they can get grubby shorting out the battery and pulling down the voltage,
Just as a general comment about key fobs which may not be relevant to this issue but is worth bearing in mind - when I acquired my Sorento (2006 model) around six months ago the key fob only worked on the rear window. Resigned myself to key-only locking and unlocking. Then I took the fob apart, and was amazed to discover how greasy and dirty it was inside. I cleaned it all out, and since then it has worked perfectly, fingers crossed. The reason why only the back window button worked was because I think it was rarely used and so hadn't accumulated any scunge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ooops - might have accidentally quoted more than once - sorry abt that.
Yes thank you. When my fobs became intermittent my first action was to claen the internals of the fobs with 99% Isopropyl alcohol. As a ret electronics bench engineer it was always the best thing to use, leaving no significant residue and suitable as a solvent for most types of grease and gunge. Needless to say there was not any imporovement.
It was after I removed and replaced both batteries and repl;aced them that it all stopped working.. excuse finger trouble keying... i'm a bit kak-handed these days - bad eyesight and poor manual co-ordination. but thank you all.
Bob.
 

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I wouldn't use WD40 on electronics. It'll leave a residue which will attract more dirt. If you can't get isopropyl alcohol use meths
 

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Hi, just literally had this with my fob(s); lights flash, mechanical sounds but no entry. But, just tried it again and it worked. How long to 'fix' it? 5 seconds. Think I had to unlock the car the other day because the remote wouldn't respond (I'm guessing external radio interference from something). Fob would lock car but not unlock and key only opened driver's door (though rear screen hatch would open). All i did was open car with key then lock car with key. Fob worked immediately afterwards. Don't know if it works for all but certainly sorted me out. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So - I took my Sorento to my local Kia dealership. Quoted 拢70 for diagnostic and then 1hr labour to recode fobs at 拢120 - or I could just ask for fobs to be recoded at 1 hour labour rate. Having given it some thought I came to the conclusion that sa the central locking is working via the keys and Immobiliser and alarm are not triggered then the fault is probably somewhere in the integrated ETACS unit. I opted for a recode only.
The outcome was that the fobs are not communicating with the ETACS unit so could not be coded. - NO CHARGE.. That was unexpected...

Going forward the only issue is that the remote locking / unlocking does not work AND when I turn the ign key all indicators illuminate. Press any button on any fob to extinguish and they light up again. Second press on key fob turns off indicators and then everything works as it should..
So I have a dilemma - do I spend loadsa money getting a new ETACs unit and having it fitted on a car which is worth almost nothing or do I live with it and hope it doesn't deteriorate..

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated as to how to resolve this please?
 

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Depends on what you use the car for. As it stands there is a possibility that the car will strand you/lock you out/refuse to start at the worst possible time and location. Can you live with that prospect? Speaking personally I could not undertake a journey with that hanging over me.
 
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