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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All.
changed my handbrake shoes yesterday due to mot Advisory, o/s changed and adjusted up no problem but the n/s being a right pain in the butt new shoes fitted adjust up no problem then as you turn wheel to check it seems to snag then locks the wheel. Shoes on and off several times with the same result. Anyone have any ideas i could try.was wondering whether drum maybe warped going by the wear pattern.The wear shown is from the top shoe. ant help much appreciated.
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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to add. when it locks the wheel and then i pull on hand break cable going in the back of the hub plate it frees off the shoes,had a good look but can't seem to find why it does this.
 

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Those shoes look badly distorted or is that dint on both edges near to the middle normal? Wear is uneven. What does the drum look like - it might be warped or ovaled - can you measure it for concentricity?

Some drum designs need the shoe to be properly centred and this can be achieved by repeatedly rotating it both ways as you tighten up the adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
was centering shoes as you sad got a nice rotation then adjusted using the internal adjuster then slackened off ,also slackened off adjuster by handbrake but still ended up swearing and cussing,was a bit of wear to drum and gave a rub with sandpaper,which helped a bit but still catches.
 

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It looks like one of the shoes is down to the metal and that would wear the drum. Can I suggest something radical? Put it all together and drive it forwards and backwards while gently applying pressure to the handbrake (this is anyway the method my local Toyota dealer uses to clear corrosion from the drum surfaces. You could also swap drums over and see if the problem moves with the drum or stays with the hub (assuming that the drums are not handed)

Surprising amount of wear on those shoes considering that they shuld be only touching the drum when the car is stationary - wondering if there is something wron with the self adjuster?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It looks like one of the shoes is down to the metal and that would wear the drum. Can I suggest something radical? Put it all together and drive it forwards and backwards while gently applying pressure to the handbrake (this is anyway the method my local Toyota dealer uses to clear corrosion from the drum surfaces. You could also swap drums over and see if the problem moves with the drum or stays with the hub (assuming that the drums are not handed)

Surprising amount of wear on those shoes considering that they shuld be only touching the drum when the car is stationary - wondering if there is something wron with the self adjuster?
did try the handbrake on bit anthought ok seems to be workin,but on the drive home could smell the brakes getting a bit worm and wheel was hot to touch. hopefully something simple.
 

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On chamfering: I don't see what a chamfer on the leading edge of the shoe would do - recognising that the handbrake should be on only when the vehicle is stationary there is no leading edge.

You haven't said but does the other side work properly?

Are you sure that the shoe retraction springs are installed correctly? Is the shoe actuation lever worn such that it goes over centre and does not return (a shoulder on it)? You might be able to detect this by operating the handbake with the drum removed to allow observation.

Swap drums side to side to eliminate the possibility that one has worn or warped.
 

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do the new shoes have the leading edges chamfered
Having spent many boring hours as an apprentice re-lining shoes of assorted vehicles at a bench vice, armed with a box of rivets, dies of various sizes and a toffee hammer, I can still remember being educated about skimming the leading edge with a fine rasp by my mentor.

I still have that rasp in one of my toolboxes today and would probably use it if I were replacing drum brakes again unless they all come pre-chamfered nowadays. Bonded linings in those days didn’t fit with a particular transport manager’s budget and apprentices were there to do as they were told, apparently!:rolleyes:
 

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without the leading edges chamfered the shoes can grab the drum as soon as it so much as touches, and if the drum is slightly out of true it makes it worse, first year apprentice stuff,
 

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without the leading edges chamfered the shoes can grab the drum as soon as it so much as touches, and if the drum is slightly out of true it makes it worse, first year apprentice stuff,
Basic driving stuff - the handbrake is used only when the car is stationary so there is no leading edge and no grab effect.
 

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Have you checked that the handbrake cable pivot on the bracket fitted to the axle casing is not seized. This is the most common handbrake problem on the Sorento. It has nylon bushes and if not regularly checked and a light lubrication causes the nearside brake shoe to bind and grab causing the drum to get hot and lining to smell.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
funnily enough it was the n/s that had worn to the metal,been to the garage and they recon it needs 2 new cables and the claw like actuators the cable ends fit in to to pull the brakes on and they're main dealer parts only.
 

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I have been involved with these motors since 2004 and it is always the nearside as no one ever seems to check the handbrake cable pivot is free. When hand brake is applied both sides shoes are applied but when the hand brake is released if the pivot is not free the springs are not strong enough to release the nearside shoes, thus they rub and wear. Also does not help fuel consumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have been involved with these motors since 2004 and it is always the nearside as no one ever seems to check the handbrake cable pivot is free. When hand brake is applied both sides shoes are applied but when the hand brake is released if the pivot is not free the springs are not strong enough to release the nearside shoes, thus they rub and wear. Also does not help fuel consumption.
hopefully going to be sorted. new cables and actuators received just need to get them fitted.
 

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The pivot on the rear axle is a known problem, make sure it is completely free to equalise the pull both ways, it needs checking ang greasing regularly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
All sorted, whole new handbrake cables fitted and only available from Kia,so £142 lighter for that and £93 to fit it but all good again,original cable by the looks of it from new and was a bit knackered and the pivot bit seized up but came with the new cables,thanks for everyone's input.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
slowly working my way through the little problems,next is why it does it smell exhaust fumey when on tick over,no smoke just fumey.
 
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