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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all, Bit of a long one here but wanted to share this info.
In the middle of sorting this problem at the min on my 2.0 CRDI 2010 Reg.
Lost all power, engine cut out.
Got to side of road and read the fault code using Torque Pro installed on my phone.
Found P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low
Restarted ok thankfully & I continued on my 40 min journey home with no issue but car would not start the following day.
Code P0087 remained, I took the day off work and delved in to see what was going on.
I had two additional symptoms that I could see 1) the Prime time on the In Tank Fuel pump was longer than normal at approx 5-6 seconds, 2-3 seconds would be normal. 2) the fuel pressure reading from the sensor on the common rail was bouncing about without reaching steady state of 56 psi. Note: I had fitted a new In Tank fuel pump about 2 months ago.
I went looking to verify if I had in fact pressure on the common rail (with ignition on & no crank) so I checked that I had fuel under pressure coming to the filter which I had ( opened bleed nut on top of filter) and then opened a Injector feed pipe on the common rail to check for fuel pressure here which I had. Note: This is low pressure as ignition on only with no crank. Stay Safe when working on fuel line that are pressurized.

Fuel could be leaking through the common rail Regulator so I removed this and cleaned with contact cleaner and verified it was electrically switching and measured the coil resistance, all looked ok.
I then check the 5V reference voltage with respect to chassis ground on the Common Rail Pressure sensor which was good. Then checked the ground wire resistance on same pressure sensor with respect to chassis ground and it looked good. I then checked the Signal voltage coming from the Common Rail Pressure sensor and knowing the Ignition was On so I was expecting to see 0.5V here ( it goes to 1V after start when Idling) but I was not seeing 0.5 volts. I played around with the connection and then the 0.5 volts was present. I was starting to thing the pressure sensor was gone bad but allegedly these Bosch sensor do not go bad.
I bad ground could cause an intermittent signal so I started to look at the chassis ground and definitely found an issue.
see pictures attached.
I am lucky the damage isn't worse than it is and also lucky that I have a spare fuse box that I bought from a dismantler six months ago purely for the relays so I will get it swapped out and see what happens.
Hopefully this is going to sort it.
I would recommend checking these connections on the fuse box for tightness, the positive (red) wire on here comes from the Alternator and the Negative (Blue) comes from the starter.

Will post again when all sorted...finger crossed.
 

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Hello all, Bit of a long one here but wanted to share this info.
In the middle of sorting this problem at the min on my 2.0 CRDI 2010 Reg.
Lost all power, engine cut out.
Got to side of road and read the fault code using Torque Pro installed on my phone.
Found P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low
Restarted ok thankfully & I continued on my 40 min journey home with no issue but car would not start the following day.
Code P0087 remained, I took the day off work and delved in to see what was going on.
I had two additional symptoms that I could see 1) the Prime time on the In Tank Fuel pump was longer than normal at approx 5-6 seconds, 2-3 seconds would be normal. 2) the fuel pressure reading from the sensor on the common rail was bouncing about without reaching steady state of 56 psi. Note: I had fitted a new In Tank fuel pump about 2 months ago.
I went looking to verify if I had in fact pressure on the common rail (with ignition on & no crank) so I checked that I had fuel under pressure coming to the filter which I had ( opened bleed nut on top of filter) and then opened a Injector feed pipe on the common rail to check for fuel pressure here which I had. Note: This is low pressure as ignition on only with no crack. Stay Safe when working on fuel line that are pressurized.

Fuel could be leaking through the common rail Regulator so I removed this and cleaned with contact cleaner and verified it was electrically switching and measured the coil resistance, all looked ok.
I then check the 5V reference voltage with respect to chassis ground on the Common Rail Pressure sensor which was good. Then checked the ground wire resistance on same pressure sensor with respect to chassis ground and it looked good. I then checked the Signal voltage coming from the Common Rail Pressure sensor and knowing the Ignition was On so I was expecting to see 0.5V here ( it goes to 1V after start when Idling) but I was not seeing 0.5 volts. I played around with the connection and then the 0.5 volts was present. I was starting to thing the pressure sensor was gone bad but allegedly these Bosch sensor do not go bad.
I bad ground could cause an intermittent signal so I started to look at the chassis ground and definitely found an issue.
see pictures attached.
I am lucky the damage isn't worse than it is and also lucky that I have a spare fuse box that I bought from a dismantler six months ago purely for the relays so I will get it swapped out and see what happens.
Hopefully this is going to sort it.
I would recommend checking these connections on the fuse box for tightness, the positive (red) wire on here comes from the Alternator and the Negative (Blue) comes from the starter.

Will post again when all sorted...finger crossed.
Good 馃憤 so many other thing like common rail Regulator also go wrong like mine take long time to found out the regulator some time work some time don't, which open and close , mine car start as normal driving along it normal too. But some time when I stop the car start again the car also feel normal soon as moving off in 1st gear I feel it had problem like one of injector block which injector 1, I am using mine scan tools checked many time didn't found any problem or any of code, so I am using mine tools do activate test on many of components using mine scan tool , many people do know like misfire it cause by common rail Regulator. I just share like out for other needed just the common rail Regulator on the common rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi All, Update. I replaced the fuse box & sorted a bad ground that connected to the gearbox but car still will only crank with no start. Tomorrow I will attempt to start it with break cleaner in through the air intake. I noted that during cranking I am not getting pressure to build above what the In Tank fuel pump provides to the rail which leads me to believe the High Pressure Pump has gone bad. If it starts momentarily tomorrow using brake cleaner I would assume the Injectors are not leaking & the Rail Pressure regulator is good also.

All opinions welcome as always....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi All , Update.& need some advice.
The reason car will not start is the rail pressure is not going above what the In Tank Pump can supply to the common rail.
The rail pressure sensor measures 0.5 Volts (Ignition On) which is normal but it will not climb to the min 1V required for the Injectors to fire.
I went for the Bosch CP3 High Pressure Pump and replaced it but same problem.
I used Brake cleaner in through the air intake & verified the engine started momentarily as expected & things were looking up at this point.
I relooked at why I am not getting the rail pressure to build pressure & my conclusion is the Timing belt has a problem ( I am guessing the tensioner ) so the overhead cam is not being driven which in turn turns the High Pressure Pump. In doing all this checking while car was stationary the engine has locked up, there is no issue with oil being a problem here as there is ample oil in sump....my question is:
If I tear down the Timing belt on assumption the problem is here can I retrieve the engine out of locked condition by aligning all timing again & expect there to be no damage?
I did have the timing belt Pulley & tensioner bought just hadn't gotten around to giving it to local mechanic.
I have to assume also this is an interference engine if someone could clarify?

Any advice welcome

Thanks All.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The only Fault code I had was P0087 Low Rail Pressure
Seized I normally associate with the engine being ran without oil but this didn't happen....I am hoping that the Engine Locked up is a lesser poor relation to the Engine Seized...!!
 

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The only Fault code I had was P0087 Low Rail Pressure
Seized I normally associate with the engine being ran without oil but this didn't happen....I am hoping that the Engine Locked up is a lesser poor relation to the Engine Seized...!!
Hi KiaSport2010
I had finding a website may help your problem at this link Error Code P0087: Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low
This a look that may help
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks
I will pop the cover on the T Belt next to see what things look like in there.
Given that the car was stationary at the time I was working on it my hope is the engine is not damaged.
 

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Thanks
I will pop the cover on the T Belt next to see what things look like in there.
Given that the car was stationary at the time I was working on it my hope is the engine is not damaged.
Hi KiaSport2010
Take out the common rail Regulator pressure sensor make sure it open and closed i know you had checked the resistant but it could be jamed like mine it some time open sometime don't it easy to take out and check could save you lot of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Diy, I don't believe its the regulator as one of the checks I did was (with ignition on) remove the connector from the Regulator. On removing a noticeable sound of fuel rushing back through the regulator can be heard which is normal as the Regulator is in a normally open condition until 12v is applied to it. I need to pop cover on T Belt an investigate there.

Thanks for input
 

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If the timing belt has slipped and caused a difference in the cam & crank timing then it is possible that the engine is locked due to piston & valve contact.

Depending on whether this happened whilst running or starting could mean all the difference in how much if any damage has been done.

I would re-time the engine using the existing setup ( belt & tensioners ) if possible and then turn over the engine by hand ( socket on the crank bolt ) and see if the engine will turn over without locking up.

You may then want to spin it over on the starter with the injectors disconnected electrically to stop it starting up to check everything.

I would then do a compression test before going any further or spending more money as you may have bent valves or a damaged head.
 
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