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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, Just suffered a non starting incident, well actually the wife did. 1st time she has driven it aswell as i was MOT'ing our other car.

So symptoms as follows...started fine for me since purchase, once i realised you need to sink the clutch. What i have noticed in recent weeks though is when i first start her and for the first 15-20 mins of a journey the radio occassionally cuts out, comes back on by itself instantly but this happens pretty much 2-3 times within a few minutes of starting.

Also more rarely the battery light flickers on for a second or two as i change down gears at junctions, again this is usually within the first 15-20 mins or on short journeys.

The headlights similarly flicker or dim ever so slightly as i move through neautral to a gear at junctions.

The battery is showing 12.7Volts with a multimeter so it doesn't seem as if that is the issue.

The key fob won't arm or de-arm the alarm. I have to manually lock/unlock her.

The recovery people got us jump started off of their truck but it has cacked itself again outside...might try and start it off of my Honda.

any ideas gents?

Cavey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So guys bit more info. Just tried to jump her from the Honda and no joy. Still dead as a dodo. Looking through other posts i am concluding it is starter motor (which i have the repair kit sitting in the garage for...see not entirely stupid)....or alternator.

What say you experts. Anyway to rule one out over the other or should i just bit the bullet and do the starter motor and see if that gets me anywhere?

Regards
Cavey
 

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I take it you have checked all connections at battery and starter motor. Made sure all the earths are clean and tight too ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Davy, Checked best i can, pitch black outside now so i can only assume so. I have been under the bonnet a few times recently i checked voltage levels, oil and so on and all connectors seemed good.

Like i say, despite the fob blinking at me nothing is happening, neither central locking deactivating nor lights flashing at me. It seems to be completely dead now. Luckily i can work from home
for a few days.

If the alternator and/or starter motor were goosed would the central locking/alarm/lights and so on not flash when i plipped her? The battery is still indicating over 12 volts so at least that seems healthy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mulling things over in my head now...is it possible the battery is shagged even if it shows 12.7volts...i mean a multimeter hardly puts any load on it does it?
 

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Hi, Re - the central locking - do you have another key/fob to try - have you tried putting the key in the ignition - turning it to the ignition position (ie dash lights on) and then pressing the lock button on the remote - this will usually tie the key to the central locking system. Faulty alternator can cause strange problems - its a pity you couldn't check the alternator output while the engine was running, should be about 14.4 - 14.7 volts if ok
Edited by: alcutler
 

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cavey76 said:
Mulling things over in my head now...is it possible the battery is shagged even if it shows 12.7volts...i mean a multimeter hardly puts any load on it does it?
Thats about right for a charged battery - but it really needs testing under load - probably the best place to start - take it off and take it to a tyre/exhaust place they will usually test it for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So yeah i have both key fobs and plipping either of them has no effect on the car. No lights flash and no central locking releases...completely kaputt. Both key fobs had new batteries in them a few weeks ago so they still flash the red led when pressed.

When i manually unlock her to enter and put the key in the dash and turn her over there is nothing, no dash lights, even the digital clock is dead.

Will try and get the battery tested somewhere tomorrow....on the plus side our FRV sailed through it's MOT once again so one less stress.
 

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Im quite sure it will be the alternator im afraid, flickering headlights and battery light coming on are classic signs of alternator failure. IF remotes no longer work it could be for 2 reasons. One is that your battery has gone so flat that they need recoding to the car and unfortunatly the trick of turning ignition on and then pressing buttons doesnt work. Will need to go to dealer for that. The other reason could be that the 'Key in' switch in ignition barrell is stuck making the car think the key is still in the ignition and that will not let you lock the car with remote.
Try spraying WD40 in barrell and work the key in and out a good few times to try and free it up and then try the remotes (with key out of course)
 

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cavey76 said:
So yeah i have both key fobs and plipping either of them has no effect on the car. No lights flash and no central locking releases...completely kaputt. Both key fobs had new batteries in them a few weeks ago so they still flash the red led when pressed.



When i manually unlock her to enter and put the key in the dash and turn her over there is nothing, no dash lights, even the digital clock is dead.




Will try and get the battery tested somewhere tomorrow....on the plus side our FRV sailed through it's MOT once again so one less stress.
Thats some good news then - That will probably be the best /cheapest place to start with the battery - when you have took itoff try connecting your Honda battery to the terminals and see ifit will start with that battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Next step of diagnosis...the battery is one of them sealed high tech jobs with the wee green indicator showing that all is (in theory) well. So that is even more confusing. Battery coming out at lunchtime for a test.

Would a blown alternator kill the whole electrical system? As in no power anywhere?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So...weather was horrible here and the water service were digging up my street so didn't get at it till about 20 mins ago. Had a spare battery lying around from when the kids killed the Honda FRV battery by leaving lights, radio, fan etc on just before Xmas. The wife insisted on a new one at the time so i had the old lying round as a spare...not ideal as it is under rated etc but just for testing's sake i plugged her in and lo' and behold the Sedona fires up so new battery time basically

Also the inquest continues, almost certain SWMBO left either lights, radio or whatever on while she was in school all day, mind you she is 7.5 months pregnant so will have to shout at her another time.

Regards
Cavey
 

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cavey76 said:
So...weather was horrible here and the water service were digging up my street so didn't get at it till about 20 mins ago. Had a spare battery lying around from when the kids killed the Honda FRV battery by leaving lights, radio, fan etc on just before Xmas. The wife insisted on a new one at the time so i had the old lying round as a spare...not ideal as it is under rated etc but just for testing's sake i plugged her in and lo' and behold the Sedona fires up so new battery time basically

Also the inquest continues, almost certain SWMBO left either lights, radio or whatever on while she was in school all day, mind you she is 7.5 months pregnant so will have to shout at her another time.

Regards
Cavey
Sounds like good news then -but bear in mind it could be the alternator thats not been working and charging the battery up - so check the alternators output while engine running!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Al, I'll do that, currently have the the Sedona's battery on the charger overnight and the backup FRV one in situ in the car.
 

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cavey76 said:
Al, I'll do that, currently have the the Sedona's battery on the charger overnight and the backup FRV one in situ in the car.
Lets hope its just the battery - be interesting to see if charging the battery brings the green indicator back on. A fully charged battery will run the car for a couple of days even without the alternator working properly and then it will gradually discharge again
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As an update and for clarifcation the green indicator never actually went away. So in theory the battery was all good. Popped it back in this morning and still no joyso it must be completely gone...had to put the FRV battery back in, god this is a nightmare, and taht got me started.

Will go and buy a top end battery today. From what i can see on the web Varta and specifically Varta Silver are regarded very highly. I think with the 'leccy doors and DVD player it is probably worth spending that extra 20-30 quid to get a high end battery
 

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cavey76 said:
As an update and for clarifcation the green indicator never actually went away. So in theory the battery was all good. Popped it back in this morning and still no joyso it must be completely gone...had to put the FRV battery back in, god this is a nightmare, and taht got me started.

Will go and buy a top end battery today. From what i can see on the web Varta and specifically Varta Silver are regarded very highly. I think with the 'leccy doors and DVD player it is probably worth spending that extra 20-30 quid to get a high end battery
Have you tested the alternator with the motor running? Have you had a look on the Eurocarparts site -
http://www.eurocarparts.com/car-battery#they do the Bosch S4 battery for the Sedona 2.9 for £99 with 4yr guarentee and at the moment they are doing 15% off so it will cost around £85 + free delivery and they have a branch in Belfast (No I don't work For them)

Edited by: alcutler
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
FIXED HER!!!!. Happy Days are here again...Phew...the relief is like a ton weight off of my shoulders. So the fix?.....A crappy earth. I have a 2007 Diesel Sedona and i was having intermittent starting issues....i was replacing my Sedona battery with a spare Honda FRV battery i had.

Sometimes when i turned her over i got nothing...sometimes i got a slight faint light but a ch, ch ch, type sound as if the T1000 was being electrocuted in Terminator 2....looking at it again today i noticed that the negative cable from the battery was a bit as we say in Scotland, "shoogley" where it is bolted to the chassis. On closer inspection the chassis bolts were threaded, corroded and basically loose. I have pulled them out, replaced witha couple of random 10mm's from my garagae with washers and horsed them up nice a tight...she has started consistently now over a dozen times off of the Sedona battery that seemed to be giving me all the issues. So, anyone who is suffering interimittant starting issues...follow the black negative cable from your battery to the chassis and make sure the contact pad to the chassis and the two bolts are solid as a rock...if not replace them.

Regards
Cavester
 

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When i serviced mine the other day, i noticed this also. Plus the clamp is made in a way it can not clamp any tighter, so i did an old renault truck trick, took it off shoved some bristles from a wire brush around the post and refitted. When i get a minute, i'll replace it with a better one.
 
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