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HiJust done my rear heater lines, was so annoyed how everyone described that they done them but never explained how, so here I am letting you guys know how save a huge bill.
For the mechanical enthusiast this is quite a simple job!
The first point is dont go looking at ebay or the internet for this pipe as I did, its hard to find and very expensive. I decided to go all rubber.
I bought the hose believe it or not from halfords as that was the best deal.
Now you need 17mm hose ideally but its hard to find and therefore buy 15.8mm which goes over nice and tight. This cost £2.50 per metre and you need 7 metres.
Now I did fing removing the centre section of metal pipe a pain but its easier out and leave the rear in place. To take the middle section out you need to bend the pipe so as to be able to lever it out as it wedges against the exhaust.
Now remember that order in which pipes plug in as they cross half way through.
Remove from the front section of metal pipe and go all the way to the back.
To remove the rubber sections of pipe from metal get a long handle angle plier and just play with the rubber section of pipe where it goes over the metal pipe, gently turning it, it will release in one go and then slide off.
As the new pipe is smaller and new it will be tight, therefore I just applied a little vaseline on metal sections and inside rubber, the new pipes slid on with ease, (the wonders of vaseline hey).
Now make sure that you route the new hoses in same way as old one, use lots of tie clips to tie new hose to old back section of metal pipe make sure you really cable tie it tight on top of exhaust box at back.

make sure all is tight and secure then open radiator cap or should I say thermostat cap and fill with antifreeze really slowly, ideally through a half cut 2 litre bottle of coke (empty) that way it will drip in and not make to many burping sounds, fill then wait as it will take more, fill reservoir tank and turn on front and rear heating on full, go for a 10 minute drive then come back and leave car idling, checking that heat is starting to come through vents front and back, dont open rad cap again it should have take some 6.5 litres at first fill.
Wait at least 3 hours or next morning it should allow you to put another 2 litres ish in as the pipes would have taken some coolant by now.
Keep an eye on it for next few days and make sure theres no leaks again it might as for another litre or so as kia specs say its a 9.9 litres tank.
Enjoy
 

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foru2justnv said:
HiJust done my rear heater lines, was so annoyed how everyone described that they done them but never explained how, so here I am letting you guys know how save a huge bill.
For the mechanical enthusiast this is quite a simple job!
The first point is dont go looking at ebay or the internet for this pipe as I did, its hard to find and very expensive. I decided to go all rubber.
I bought the hose believe it or not from halfords as that was the best deal.
Now you need 17mm hose ideally but its hard to find and therefore buy 15.8mm which goes over nice and tight. This cost £2.50 per metre and you need 7 metres.
Now I did fing removing the centre section of metal pipe a pain but its easier out and leave the rear in place. To take the middle section out you need to bend the pipe so as to be able to lever it out as it wedges against the exhaust.
Now remember that order in which pipes plug in as they cross half way through.
Remove from the front section of metal pipe and go all the way to the back.
To remove the rubber sections of pipe from metal get a long handle angle plier and just play with the rubber section of pipe where it goes over the metal pipe, gently turning it, it will release in one go and then slide off.
As the new pipe is smaller and new it will be tight, therefore I just applied a little vaseline on metal sections and inside rubber, the new pipes slid on with ease, (the wonders of vaseline hey).
Now make sure that you route the new hoses in same way as old one, use lots of tie clips to tie new hose to old back section of metal pipe make sure you really cable tie it tight on top of exhaust box at back.

make sure all is tight and secure then open radiator cap or should I say thermostat cap and fill with antifreeze really slowly, ideally through a half cut 2 litre bottle of coke (empty) that way it will drip in and not make to many burping sounds, fill then wait as it will take more, fill reservoir tank and turn on front and rear heating on full, go for a 10 minute drive then come back and leave car idling, checking that heat is starting to come through vents front and back, dont open rad cap again it should have take some 6.5 litres at first fill.
Wait at least 3 hours or next morning it should allow you to put another 2 litres ish in as the pipes would have taken some coolant by now.
Keep an eye on it for next few days and make sure theres no leaks again it might as for another litre or so as kia specs say its a 9.9 litres tank.
Enjoy
Hi
Thanks for this. I know Steve G was going to describe how and supply pictures whilst doing it but he's had other things to keep him occupied. I think it has been talked up to a certain extent to be something mystical/difficult, which I would imagine if you are not used to doing car repairs it is. As you point out it is really just having the time and being observant when doing it and replacing the metal pipes with 5/8th rubber hose, and making sure you bleed the system correctly to avoid an airlock and head gasket failure.
 

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Sounds like a much better option to do yourself.

Cost me £600 at Kia dealer :-(

Then again, did you know that in North America there was tech bulletin released to all the dealers about this. Basically, admitting, that the anti-corrosion coating originally done wasnt really up to the job.

Currently, in a bit of an argument with Kia UK Customer Services saying that its a bit much that its cost me £600 for something that is known to be sub-standard from manufacture. I'll let you know how I get on!
 

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hi,i had advisery on mot for this so all i did was replace the metal pipes from half way down the veichel to the back with braded radiator hose and use the original retaining brackets and wrap it in heat resistant wrap where it runs over the exhaust just to stop any problems when the car is idleing in traffic..
 

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foru2justnv said:
HiJust done my rear heater lines, was so annoyed how everyone described that they done them but never explained how, so here I am letting you guys know how save a huge bill.
For the mechanical enthusiast this is quite a simple job!
The first point is dont go looking at ebay or the internet for this pipe as I did, its hard to find and very expensive. I decided to go all rubber.
I bought the hose believe it or not from halfords as that was the best deal.
Now you need 17mm hose ideally but its hard to find and therefore buy 15.8mm which goes over nice and tight. This cost £2.50 per metre and you need 7 metres.
Now I did fing removing the centre section of metal pipe a pain but its easier out and leave the rear in place. To take the middle section out you need to bend the pipe so as to be able to lever it out as it wedges against the exhaust.
Now remember that order in which pipes plug in as they cross half way through.
Remove from the front section of metal pipe and go all the way to the back.
To remove the rubber sections of pipe from metal get a long handle angle plier and just play with the rubber section of pipe where it goes over the metal pipe, gently turning it, it will release in one go and then slide off.
As the new pipe is smaller and new it will be tight, therefore I just applied a little vaseline on metal sections and inside rubber, the new pipes slid on with ease, (the wonders of vaseline hey).
Now make sure that you route the new hoses in same way as old one, use lots of tie clips to tie new hose to old back section of metal pipe make sure you really cable tie it tight on top of exhaust box at back.

make sure all is tight and secure then open radiator cap or should I say thermostat cap and fill with antifreeze really slowly, ideally through a half cut 2 litre bottle of coke (empty) that way it will drip in and not make to many burping sounds, fill then wait as it will take more, fill reservoir tank and turn on front and rear heating on full, go for a 10 minute drive then come back and leave car idling, checking that heat is starting to come through vents front and back, dont open rad cap again it should have take some 6.5 litres at first fill.
Wait at least 3 hours or next morning it should allow you to put another 2 litres ish in as the pipes would have taken some coolant by now.
Keep an eye on it for next few days and make sure theres no leaks again it might as for another litre or so as kia specs say its a 9.9 litres tank.
Enjoy

Well done you for taking the trouble to describe your method, will give the "will" to those " "shall I do it or take it and get Clobbered" owners to tackle the job!
 

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I'm a newbie and was sceptical about this job as someone who first know a spanner from a cheeseburger!

I've just replaced the entire steel pipes from front to back with 5/8 I'D hose and it's a success. A bit cramped for space even with ramps but with a bit of patience and perseverance, it's a perfect solution.

All it cost me was £15 for a 20 metre roll of hose from Halfords (which they were discontinuing at £3.69 per metre!) And a pack of jubilee clips.

Thanks for your help!
 

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Hi. Well done on the rear heater pipes. I fully replaced mine some years ago with all rubber front to rear. Ihave replied to other members that I bought the pipes from Halfordsabout £2.50pm and about 7mtr length required.Do one lenght at a time as they do cross under the car. It is a 'simplish' task.Last year I replaced with metal and rubber as original making piping my self. I am going back to full rubber as this has only 4 connection points as oppossed to 16 in the metal/rubber combo.My biggest problem is how to put the pictures on the site with a write up. The turbo replacement and gear cable change pics worked on the 'sticky' site but do not know what happened to the rear heater pipes?
If you have the time tackle all the Sedona jobs yourself with confidence. I have done head gasket, changedcylinder head, clutch cable, high pressure fuel pump. I did not know how to tune in the radio before this. :)

disc off Bruno is a good buy and look for Sedona Gary Wellingborugh good supplier ofstuff. ie fuel injector including postage £35. I bought my last engine from him delivered to Blackpool £400.
 

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Just got this problem , well had it awhile but now its gushing out . ;( so if I get the 15.8 mm hose and some clips should be simple for me to do tomorrow? Dou you need to ramp the back or front?
 

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You need to ramp up at front and locate downpipes from engine to see where the rust starts. I have sawn pipes off on the down section about an inch from where it bends along the underside of car. Do one pipe at a time and feed the pipes along the existing pipework - be careful as the pipes cross over half way along. Ramp up the back and remove existing spring clip from first pipe and attach end of new pipe. Remove second rear pipe and do in reverse. Use plenty of heavy duty cable ties and secure away from exhaust. Leave existing pipework in place to use as anchor points for new pipes. Good Luck!
 

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Does anyone know why my Air con would stop working if i bypassed the water flow and return to the rear for two weeks. Then replaced in rubber the corroded pipes. Now it is back working with hot air, the air con is not working. Please help as my head is sore from scratching.
 

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rear heater hoses

Yes I agree replace the metal hoses with rubber hoses the full length of the vehicle to the rear heater.
I have recently been topping up my coolant bottle and not seeing where the leak was (there must be a leak if you keep topping up the coolant bottle to the level mark, lower for cold engine upper for hot engine) I recently removed the spare wheel from its carrier at the rear and noticed some stain marks on the rear heater hose by the hose to heater connection. I touched the heater hose to see if the hose was rotten or split and the whole thing broke away. the heater element pipe broke clean off, corded right through. I have looped the rear heater hoses together, by passing the heater but keeping the water flow.
I will have to decide if it is possible to connect the water hoses to the heater inside the vehicle or replace the heater or just leave it by passed (no rear heater) any experience or tips on this please
 

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Well done, I had mine done a few yrs ago. had a local mech do it for me...
 
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