Kia Owners Club Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, thanks in advance for any comments I receive on this post, I’m only posting here after reading all the other posts on the subject but with no joy in sorting the problem.

2005 Kia Rio had Intermittent starting fault, which seemed to be rectified by moving the position of the immobiliser antenna. This fix no longer worked so I thought the antenna had finally given up and replaced it, but no joy this time. I have checked the connector for continuity and it’s fine, (as I was going to cut out the connector and solder the wires together). No fault codes are showing on the OBD reader, engine is receiving fuel but no spark at the plugs. All I can assume is that there is still a fault with the immobiliser.

The immobiliser light illuminates initially in the ’on’ position, but the light begins to flash during cranking of the engine. Any ideas guys as this is my daughters car and I’ve had to resort to becoming the taxi once more!!!!

All fuses look good and the relays in the engine bay are all ok. Any ideas on where the cables from the antanna feed into so I could run a bypass wire, direct from the antanna to the ‘box’, an thus rule out a break in the cable.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Andy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep, I have tried the spare key, it’s the same situation for each. Due to this I have ruled out the keys as the chances of them both breaking at the same time is highly unlikely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well the car is working fine now but i cant say for sure what fixed it.

A friend who works for the AA suggested that I leave the ignition on for 30 minutes and try to start it. This is supposed to reset the immobiliser system but it didn’t work. Looking at other possibilities, I started to focus on the crankshaft sensor as my AA friend told me the immobiliser cuts both the fuel and spark. As I was still getting wet spark plugs, obviously the fuel was getting through.

I whipped out the crankshaft sensor, checked the resistance and gave it a good old clean up. Waving a spanner passed the magnet whilst checking for an AC voltage on the pins gave me a reading on the multimeter. From this is I deduced that the sensor was fine, refitted it and then checked for a voltage whilst cranking, which I got.

I then checked the earth straps all over the engine bay. All was fine. At this point I was back scratching my head so I decided I was going to check for a spark again at the plugs. I grabbed a file and cleaned up the top of the front engine mount, took out a plug and held it against the engine mount. This was the interesting bit as i got a spark and the engine ran on the remaining three cylinders. I refitted the plug and it starts first time now.

Whatever it was, it’s fixed now, but I am interested in working out what it was. Maybe a sticky relay in the system somewhere that got freed up when I gave the block a zap from the plug.

If you have any thoughts on what it could be then send me a message.

I thought about changing the Crankshaft sensor as it’s only £15 off eBay, (£70 on euro car parts), but I decided against it as I wanted the fault to return so I could find it 100%.

Meanwhile, I will enjoy it starting first time !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
It could be a defective coil pack on a plug (Or on its way out). Or poor contacts on terminal plug. Check and compare resistances on low and high tension sides and compare all four coil packs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
I would change the crank sensor (as its cheap) i had a dodgy crank sensor on a car once, i would take it out and clean it the engine would start and be ok for a few days, then the fault would reoccur eventually i measured resistance= open circuit but if i shook the sensor i would get a resistance and the car started=changed the sensor and all was good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
A crank sensor fault would be logged by the obd along with a check engine light.
In older times the crank sensor would be used to simply time the electronic ignition and no ECU.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top