Jacking points can be a mystery.
I am in no way a jacking point expert so following is just my take on this topic
The "wheel change point" is often marked on the sills with a little notch or cut out. This is often used by garages as a jacking point using a 4 post lift.
Owner handbooks often have jacking points indicated as well (which often are also the wheel change point)
If unsure, think about it like the car does ie; how does the car suspend itself to stop it collapsing on the ground? Which almost always brings you to the suspension points as Birdman suggests
As an example, on my Venga at the rear I jack using the lower cup where the rear spring sits. This effectively just changes the height of the "road" as far as the car is concerned. I then use axle stands on the side notched lifting points (as indicated in my manual)
At the front its a bit more tricky as the wishbone mounting point is somewhat inboard so I have to get the trolley jack at the right angle to jack, but then leaving room for axle stands on the side notched point.
On my previous car (Almera Tino MPV) it was a doddle as it had a centre line jacking point with indents for the trolley jack cup front and rear.
If you check behind the notches on the sill you should find the underfloor has a thickened structure to take the weight of the car, well technically 1/4 of the weight but I imagine its tested much higher than that.
As always, if in any doubt ask a dealer, but if your dealer is like mine, they will be less than forthcoming with info like this.
Fleabay PDF manuals are just OK in my experience. I have one for my Venga and its usable and importantly has torque settings and useful fault finding steps etc. Mine doesn't have a full wiring diagram and doesn't cover my auto gearbox (but auto boxes are pretty specialist to repair so I'm not surprised). Conversely my Tino PDF manual covered everything and had some cracking wiring diagrams which helped immensely when the heater controller played up.
