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Discussion Starter #1
Few days ago I noticed that the High beam is not working anymore, but the low beam is working fine (both high beam left & right stopped working at the same time).
I went to a garage where we tested if the power is reaching the headlight or not, by using the blinker handler to turn high / low beam , the electricity is reaching the headlight fine...
So he told me that maybe the Magnetic Motor is brocken, the one that turns a kind of a cap that make the difference between the high / low beam from the same lamp.

Please, Does anyone experinced this issue? what should I do ?
 

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Your garage is suspect. Each headlight has it's own shutter mechanism and it's own motor and it is very unlikely that both have failed at the same time. Amlost certainly an electrical wiring issue - I don't think there would be a fuse serving only the shutter motors. Bad harness connector whould be a good place to start looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That exactly what I told him, almost impossible both stop working at the same time .
Does anyone have wire diagramme of the electracal circuit?
 

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When you switch from low to high beam does the headlight bulb go out? I thought that in these projector units the bulb was on all the time and that, in dipped mode, a shutter cut light off. So one would expect the bulb to be lit irrespective of high or low shutter setting. You say the electricity is reaching the headlight fine... is that under both high & low beam operation?

A rank outside question is are you sure your lights are single filament bulbs? Have you taken a bulb out to inspect it?
 

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The Sportage has single filament bulb with a shutter dipper.
 

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The Sportage has single filament bulb with a shutter dipper.
It seems odd then that the OP said electricity was at the bulb (presumably the contacts on the back) but the bulb was not illuminated when in High Beam. One (at least I) would think it pointless switching the bulb off / on between movement of the shutter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: the high beam seems to work time to time randomly... I am trying figure out when or how excatly, but didn t success yet.
However, when I park the car for a while then turn it on, it works for like 10 to 20 sec then it stops...
It s making me crazy
 

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Maybe a silly question but when you have low beam on does the headlight flasher work normally?

When you select High Beam do the headlights go off completely?

My car is a Stonic so different equipment, but the bulb is not switched off when moving from low to high beam, only the shutter opens to allow high beam light out of the lens system.
 

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Another stupid question which light switch position have you tested this on?

Just wondering if the Auto detect headlight control is (correctly) inhibiting high beam operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Maybe a silly question but when you have low beam on does the headlight flasher work normally?

When you select High Beam do the headlights go off completely?

My car is a Stonic so different equipment, but the bulb is not switched off when moving from low to high beam, only the shutter opens to allow high beam light out of the lens system.
Low beam is working perfectly and never goes off...
When I select High beam nothing happend, it's because as mentioned before, there is one beam for both high & low ... and there is a shutter that opens to be a high beam
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Low beam is working perfectly and never goes off...
When I select High beam nothing happend, it's because as mentioned before, there is one beam for both high & low ... and there is a shutter that opens to be a high beam
I ve tested on the left one, good point, i ll test the other one...
 

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So the problem is the control of the shutters not the actual bulbs.

guess it's possible the shutters could stick, if the headlight flasher works maybe flashing it a few times may fee it. If the shutter never moves as Turnip suggested I'd be looking for some connection / wiring / control issue. If possible monitoring the feed to the shutters should be able to show that a control voltage is getting there (or not)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So the problem is the control of the shutters not the actual bulbs.

guess it's possible the shutters could stick, if the headlight flasher works maybe flashing it a few times may fee it. If the shutter never moves as Turnip suggested I'd be looking for some connection / wiring / control issue. If possible monitoring the feed to the shutters should be able to show that a control voltage is getting there (or not)
Yes indeed, it s definitely the shutters, however shouldn't be stucked because they both works sometimes and both stop...
Now how can I diagnostic if the voltage is getting to it? I need to find the wire or the fuse leading to it... now since both are acting the same, i should look for something before it splits to each one of them...
Any suggestions where can I diagnostics? Technically i mean
 

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Any suggestions where can I diagnostics? Technically i mean
There are some hints in this VW thread from another forum. While obviously not Kia, so colours, pin numbers etc. are wrong, it's quite possible that similar control mechanisms are used. The tip I saw was measuring the resistance of the shutter actuator coils once you get to find the appropriate wires. Also that there will be some central control unit that manages the shutters - if you can find that it could just be a poor connection, possibly at an interface plug. Bi-xenon Shutter malfunction

The high-beam shutter is just a solenoid inside each headlight housing. One end of the solenoid coil is connected to ground, and the other end is connected to Pin 11 of the 10-pin connector on the back of the headlight assembly. The ground pins are 5 (brown) and 7 (brown), on the 10-pin connector. The left headlight Pin 11 wire is green with a purple stripe, the right headlight pin 11 wire is yellow with a black stripe.
Each pin 11 headlight wire connects to the Central Electrical Control Module (CECM), with no fuse between these. The CECM switches +12V to these, to activate the High Beam shutter.
Use a Voltmeter to determine if the CECM is providing +12V power to pin 11, only when the high beams are engaged. If +12V is present, when the high beams are disengaged, then the problem is the CECM. If the CECM output works properly, then the shutter is mechanically stuck in the open (highbeam) position. Maybe you would have to get into the headlight housing to try to unstick it.
You can check the continuity of the shutter by unplugging the 10 pin headlight connector and measure the ohms/resistance from pin 11 to pin 5 (or pin 7). The solenoid is probably something like 50 to 120 ohms.

Best of luck in finding the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There are some hints in this VW thread from another forum. While obviously not Kia, so colours, pin numbers etc. are wrong, it's quite possible that similar control mechanisms are used. The tip I saw was measuring the resistance of the shutter actuator coils once you get to find the appropriate wires. Also that there will be some central control unit that manages the shutters - if you can find that it could just be a poor connection, possibly at an interface plug. Bi-xenon Shutter malfunction

The high-beam shutter is just a solenoid inside each headlight housing. One end of the solenoid coil is connected to ground, and the other end is connected to Pin 11 of the 10-pin connector on the back of the headlight assembly. The ground pins are 5 (brown) and 7 (brown), on the 10-pin connector. The left headlight Pin 11 wire is green with a purple stripe, the right headlight pin 11 wire is yellow with a black stripe.
Each pin 11 headlight wire connects to the Central Electrical Control Module (CECM), with no fuse between these. The CECM switches +12V to these, to activate the High Beam shutter.
Use a Voltmeter to determine if the CECM is providing +12V power to pin 11, only when the high beams are engaged. If +12V is present, when the high beams are disengaged, then the problem is the CECM. If the CECM output works properly, then the shutter is mechanically stuck in the open (highbeam) position. Maybe you would have to get into the headlight housing to try to unstick it.
You can check the continuity of the shutter by unplugging the 10 pin headlight connector and measure the ohms/resistance from pin 11 to pin 5 (or pin 7). The solenoid is probably something like 50 to 120 ohms.

Best of luck in finding the problem.
Thanks a lot dude, very usefull , I ll do my homework tomorrow and bring you feedback . However I ve found this pdf that shows the wire diagram of sportage's headlight, check it please and help me out if anything can help me to find the correct pins to check .
 

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Sounds unlikely to be the mechanical bits if both operate as one but intermittently (as one). My guess would be the switch on the column but good luck finding the actual problem. 🤞
 

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Thanks a lot dude, very usefull , I ll do my homework tomorrow and bring you feedback . However I ve found this pdf that shows the wire diagram of sportage's headlight, check it please and help me out if anything can help me to find the correct pins to check .
No PDF to be found.
 
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