[Jamesrb90]

Hi all, any help would be amazing. we have a kia sportage 2013 and the handbrake is little to non existent. Weve changed all the breaks and discs and also adjusted the cable near the handbrake.. It did help for a couple weeks but back to square 1.. leaving it in gear constantly.
So I ask is there any other adjustments anywhere else or is it a cable issue that needs renewed
Many thanks

 

[robthedarter]

Have you tried adjusting the cam inside the rear brake drum this is where you will have the adjustment for the handbrake shoes cant just be done by the cable alone funny set up this one but get it right and all will be ok

 

[Jamesrb90]

Thanks for your reply, these are disks and pads on this car ?

 

[ray_b]

They are normally pads on the outside, shoes on the inside, and need adjusting at the drum first taking up slack in the cable if any after.

 

[WD Pro]

They are normally pads on the outside, shoes on the inside, and need adjusting at the drum first taking up slack in the cable if any after.

This is true, whoever changed the disks would have known.

I think I mentioned about about how I adjusted them on my wheel / tyre / brake refurb thread.

At about five o’clock on this picture you can see the rubber bung that needs to be removed for adjustment :

WD

 

[Jamesrb90]

Oh wow thanks guys I didnt even know the rear had shoes. So by removing the rubber bung that will allow me to adjust the handbrake? Is there a limit to how much adjustment I can do at all? Also ill have a look at yours thread also so thank you

 

[WD Pro]

Finished :

Kia wheel nuts seem to last well, I’ve had BMW bolts that have looked way worse than these in less time :

Very happy with the new look (sorry for the dirty car ... lol) :

I know the tyres are new, but they have a much more chunky look than the originals :

I know tyre widths aren’t consistent across manufacturers and I think these are just a little wider, coupled with the rim protector I think it makes a difference you notice :

And just a temporary photo of the nut covers on one wheel :

I will add the full set in a week or so when I’ve checked wheel torque.

I will add some more photos once everything is clean and the graphics are in place

I have a method for hand brake adjustment (from the drum) which may help someone in future :

Fit both disks with the shoes backed right off and no calliper pads fitted.

Adjust the mechanism on one wheel until it binds.

Back it off two clicks.

Check rotation - it should be stiff but smooth and moveable by hand using the wheel studs (uncomfortable on the fingers though).

If on a AWD, back it off a further two clicks.

Repeat for the other side, but only back off two clicks total.

Return to first side and put back on the extra two clicks you removed.

With everything back together that gave me the perfect three clicks of the lever (just, the third one is tight) which is exactly how Kia returns it to me after its annual service.

Hope that helps

WD

From this thread :1st Tyre & Brake Change @ 59k

WD

 

[robthedarter]

Oh wow thanks guys I didnt even know the rear had shoes. So by removing the rubber bung that will allow me to adjust the handbrake? Is there a limit to how much adjustment I can do at all? Also ill have a look at yours thread also so thank you

Hi just to let you know when you have adjusted it all you will still have a slight forward movement untill handbrake shoes take hold this is normal

 

[Jack Daniels]

Is the handbrake adjustment mechanism actually a "self adjustment" mechanism?

The slight movement mentioned above should also occur in reverse direction. This should rotate the self adjustment mechanism and cause the engagement of the shoes to tighten up.

If the OPs shoes are way too "loose" then it will require several brakings in reverse direction to selv adjust to the correct clearance.

Unless the self adjustment mechanims are clean and in pristine condition then they may stick and not function sufficiently.

 

[robthedarter]

Is the handbrake adjustment mechanism actually a "self adjustment" mechanism?

The slight movement mentioned above should also occur in reverse direction. This should rotate the self adjustment mechanism and cause the engagement of the shoes to tighten up.

If the OPs shoes are way too "loose" then it will require several brakings in reverse direction to selv adjust to the correct clearance.

Unless the self adjustment mechanims are clean and in pristine condition then they may stick and not function sufficiently.

Hi when i changed the handbrake shoes on mine i tried the self adjustment as you say but didnt work for me so adjusted them useing the cam though the hole bit of a pain but got there in the end