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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone i have a carens 2l CRDI LE 05 PLATE

failed mot for hand brake at 7 %

now i have just changed rear calipers disks and brake pads and cables.

took it back today for mot and it failed again this time 12%

cant think of anything els it could be all this has just cost £600
and the car is 6 year old

can anyone think of anything or come across this before?

thanks rich
 

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Did you set the calipers?
Slacken of adjustment, start engine and pump hard on pedal about 20 times to get calipers set, then adjust cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes all that done. even the handbrake ajuster is now full up after i slacked it off pumped foot brake after bled brakes ive even slacked of ajuster after and repeated but still not worked
 

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The series II Carens handbrake is pretty poor but it should be capable of getting through a currentMOT....although there are rumours ofincreases comingin the minimum MOTbrake efficiency standards so how it'll cope then is anyones guess!


Onething you don't mention: did you wind, not just lever,the pistons rightback into the caliperswhen you replaced the pads/discs? It's importantthey be properlywound inin order to reset the adjuster mechanism. I've also found that with new pads you can get it set up and then after a few days driving the pads are bedded in and you need to adjust it again.



Mind you, if you think it's a pain you should try setting up the handbrake on my old Triumph, thinner cables, wobbly links, and it needs to meet 25% efficiency because it's a single line brake system!
 

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Have yougot fluid leaking onto the braking surfaces? Is the system bled down properly on both circuits? How does the pedal feel?
 

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I've a 53 plate 1.8 LX, that's has handbrake troubles at every MOT. Advisories for the last few years then prior to that low pads. This year failed altogether as down to 10%.


I had it all apart including dropping off all cables to ensure they were free moving. I could see anything wrong so decided it wasn't worth just cleaning and re-building.


The got the new pads off ebay a couple of years ago (recommended off this forum, beware) and was slightly concerned that they were a bit cheap & nasty. They didn't come with new shims and didn't have all the location logs the old ones did.


Anyway, down to Camberley auto factors for some new ones (£23) and started to re-assemble. Cleaning as I went I noticed that the calliper should float on the sleeves that are bolted through onto the hub. It turns out that 3 or the 4 sleeves were stuck, not really seized, just a bit sticky. I squeezed the rubber boot open a gave a little squirt of plus gas in each one. It was then possible to slide each sleeve quite freely in the calliper. With these being stuck I suspect this was playing a large part of handbrake failure as the hand pressure would only apply pressure on 1 pad as a lot of the effort would be lost trying to slide the calliper across.


Anyway, back to MOT station and no problems, much improved although I didn't get the % figure.


So my advice would be:


By decent pads


Ensure all cables are free moving


Make sure the calibre moves freely on the bolted sleeves.


And a note on the calliper pistons, as previously stated they do not squeeze back in the traditional way as previously stated, they wind in using the two cut-outs and both sides go clockwise to wind back in. A good test to make sure the automatic adjusters are working is to manually move the handbrake lever and you will see the piston creep out. I did each side a number of times, but be careful not to pop out the cylinder. You then get to wind it back in again. Not sure if there is a tool available for this, I used long nose pliers.
 
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