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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 Mk2 Sportage 2WD auto 2l. 96k miles.
This car started to show problems by occasionally jerking when gear changing.
Then it would often stall on a sharp right hand turn - such as a roundabout. Being automatic this meant a stop, into Park and restart the engine.
This is much worse when the engine is warm, and has gradually got worse with time. I had to reverse the car but it always stalled. Local garage investigated: engine management light not lit, and no error codes. They gave up.
They did monitor the engine while driving and said the fuel temperature was fluctuating.
I have changed the fuel temp sensor and the wiring to it - no difference.
I have changed the camshaft sensor. No difference.
I have cleaned and tested the fuel pump in the tank. Seems OK.
I have cleaned and tested the Throttle Body. Gears OK, butterfly moves cleanly.
It now starts reluctantly, runs for a few minutes then repeatedly stalls. Undriveable.
HAS ANYBODY ANY IDEAS OF WHAT IS WRONG PLEASE?
 

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Have you removed and cleaned the EGR Solenoid which sits on top of the EGR Valve.....a very quick job to do. While you have the Solenoid off verify the firing pin in the middle of the solenoid fires when 12v put onto the coil. The firing pin usually sticks on these causing the Valve to leak....you would have all sorts of issues like rough idle, jerking, hard to start etc. When you have the solenoid removed start the car and then press on the exposed valve seat to see how a leaking valve will choke your engine.
 

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4:20 into video shows guy pressing on the valve. Make sure its moving freely. You dont have to disassemble the entire cooler & valve assembly. Just pop off the 4 allen head bolts on the electrical solenoid that sits on top of the valve. Once solenoid off the firing pin in the middle of solenoid needs to move freely when 12v applied. This pin is used to move the valve. Do not grease as crud will stick to it causing more problems. A high temp anti seize compound might work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took out the EGR solenoid. Resistance circa 10 ohms. Pin moved smoothly against the spring. Applied 12v. Spark but no movement from the pin. Had my wife hold pin in and when volts applied the solenoid pushes the pin out. Looks like its working. The EGR valve itself moves freely against its spring.
Tried holding the EGR valve shut and started car. Started OK and tick-over fine until the engine warmed up. Then stopped. Noted that with the EGR shut and cold the engine wouldn't rev above 2000rpm.
Where to now?
 

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You mentioned you replaced the Cam Sensor (top dead center sensor), Did you do anything with the Crank Position Sensor?

I only replaced my Crank Sensor last Saturday, I had a starting problem when hot.
It is starting a lot better now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took out the EGR solenoid. Resistance circa 10 ohms. Pin moved smoothly against the spring. Applied 12v. Spark but no movement from the pin. Had my wife hold pin in and when volts applied the solenoid pushes the pin out. Looks like its working. The EGR valve itself moves freely against its spring.
Tried holding the EGR valve shut and started car. Started OK and tick-over fine until the engine warmed up. Then stopped. Noted that with the EGR shut and cold the engine wouldn't rev above 2000rpm.
Where to now?
You mentioned you replaced the Cam Sensor (top dead center sensor), Did you do anything with the Crank Position Sensor?

I only replaced my Crank Sensor last Saturday, I had a starting problem when hot.
It is starting a lot better now.
The car runs very roughly and regularly stalls. Completely undriveable. Thanks for the thought.
 

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Can you open the exhaust pre DPF ( yes it will be noisey) and start car and let it tick over and see if it stays ticking over. An old trick years back as a practical joke was to use a potato to block the exhaust outlet....the car would start but then choke and cut out......point being you DPF may be blocked choking the car after startup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can you open the exhaust pre DPF ( yes it will be noisey) and start car and let it tick over and see if it stays ticking over. An old trick years back as a practical joke was to use a potato to block the exhaust outlet....the car would start but then choke and cut out......point being you DPF may be blocked choking the car after startup.
I could separate the exhaust. However, 2 months ago I found one of the unions on the side of the DPF had crumbled, so I replaced the DPF. The new one has only done about 300 mils since because of all the problems. Thanks for the suggestion.
A garage I contacted suggested it is an earthing problem, so it remains to be seen if that's what's wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Car now towed to garage. They changed MAF and cleaned EGR valve. Seemed nearly OK driving home, just a couple of jerks. Next (cold) morning car was undriveable, though it gets a bit better when its warmed up. When I first start it it keeps stalling. I I raise revs to 2000 and hold it there you can hear and feel the engine briefly stalling but picking up again. Engine brief stops are erratic - no pattern.
Has anyone any inspiration?
 

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Car now towed to garage. They changed MAF and cleaned EGR valve. Seemed nearly OK driving home, just a couple of jerks. Next (cold) morning car was undriveable, though it gets a bit better when its warmed up. When I first start it it keeps stalling. I I raise revs to 2000 and hold it there you can hear and feel the engine briefly stalling but picking up again. Engine brief stops are erratic - no pattern.
Has anyone any inspiration?
Choking at 2,000RPM sounds like EGR valve to me as it's exactly what mine was doing. When they changed it did they update the ECU software? Mine was replaced by Kia and they said the ECU must be updated to delete the old valve completely and re-enable learning of the new valve. They also said that if you replace it with an aftermarket valve, it would be best to keep the actuator if it still works as aftermarket ones can cause problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for that. I am coming to the same conclusion myself, even though the garage cleaned the present one. Also the exhaust smells acrid. Thanks for the tips about the actuator and the aftermarket vs Kia EGR valve.
 
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