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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2002 Sedona/carnival with 2,9 diesel TDI engine.When engine is cold is starts and runs just fine, but when engine gets hot (normal hot) it shuts down and I will have to wait until cold to start the engine again.

Itdoes not matter if I handpump oil it will not start while hot. Looks like it is taking air but if I just wait until cold then it starts.

Any ideas ?
 

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Hi, Freddz.Unfortunately you are not alone, it happened to me I put it into a KIA main agent who told me my head gasket had blown and it would cost me about £750 to £850 to fix it. Being an old Git who drovedieselsbefore he was born, I took it to aMercedes mechanic who in 3 minutes flat told me it was the Oil Cooler it seems to have cured it but I have been advised to renew all Water Hoses because the oil that got into the system hasprobablydamagedthe hoses. Never ends does it. Best regards and lot's of luck .
Mega_Ted
 

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My 2006 (old model) Sedona went through a period of going into 'get home mode' when it was hot.
Inspection of the coolant reservoir showed plenty of coolant....the dealers spent a couple of days on it (thankfully still within it's then short warranty) and tested for the suspected head gasket problem et al.

Told me there was nothing wrong with it but that the coolant level was low (see above).

This kept happening....until one day, ignoring the full coolant reservoir and lookingunder what we used to call the radiator cap I could see no coolant so started filling it from there. I can't now recall how much went in but it was a lot (at least2 litres).

I had to repeat this several times over a period of time before the thing started behaving normally and now it retains coolant.

I have no idea where it was going or what was going on but have had no problems now for over 3 years.

Don't trust the coolant reservoir as an indicator.

Jim

Edited by: JimB
 

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Hi. Agree, do not use plastic resovoir as water level indicator. I did this for a long period and it cost me another engine and 3 head gaskets and the knock on effect to heater pipes, oil ect...
The plastic res works of 'push suck' so if prob with pipes elsewhere this does not suck so looks full. After using the metal cap to ckeck(like rad cap) I was putting 2 -3 litres in every other day and a litre after 54 mile round trips and always had 5ltre in car too. Rad cap sould show 0.9 stamped in it this is the lbs pressure check it is not a 1.1 as this is very near the test pressure of the water system.
I have found the leak seep now under car. Am posting PICS when done to site topics.
Probs seen to reoccur but I love my car, and I have leart alot of 'mechanicing' and saved ££££££££ doing most jobs myself. Treat yourself to a Kia Manual Disc fron BRUNO1926.

Steve Gx Blackpool
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for your replies. Over the weekend I checked the water via the rad cap and added one bottle of water. Seems there is no water missing.

When the engine gets to just above 1/4 of its normal heat and I put it into D (automatic) the engine dies and I need to wait until cold again and I need to pump the oil as it has some air in it to start the engine. If I skip putting it into Drive engine stops few minutes later. What I have changed is:
ECU unit
CPSensor
Water heater sensor
Check water leakage

I am totally lost here so I would appreciate any ideas you could have for me. I have the manual from Bruno and they are of great help, but there is nothing regarding this issue.
 
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