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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I had a new battery fitted to my 2016 Venga 4 CRDI at the end of January by Halfords on the drive, due to being shielded. The car had stood for 5 weeks and was completely dead. I had to open the doors with the key.
The battery took 5 hours at 8 amps to just get enough juice to crank the engine.
Had the car serviced and MOT'd end of February at my local KIA dealer, no problems.
Then on Tuesday, I couldn't open the car, door buttons or key fob would not work. When opened with the key the alarm sounded, I sat in the car and pressed the lock and unlock on key fob alarm silenced. Everything ok. Then yesterday doors would not lock with the key fob or door buttons. Sat in the car turned on lights, ok. pressed start button. Button illuminated, but no lights on the dash engine didn't crank. I Pressed the lock-unlock buttons, still nothing. I turned on the radio, KIA came up on the screen then eventually the radio came on. For some reason, I pressed and held the unlock button on the key fob after about 10 secs I got a click from the doors and everything worked as normal. I am now waiting for the Kia dealer to contact me. Anyone else had similar issues
 

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Did Halfords plug the ECU back in properly?
A battery change involves unmounting the ECU holder (which sits behind the battery - yeah , I know!))and you have to be careful you don't over stress the wiring loom. If they unplugged it for better access, its a rather large wiring plug and they may not have reconnected properly which has worked loose over the weeks between Halfords and now.
Similarly the battery sensor wire (wired on the top of the battery - a green wire on mine ) tells the car about battery charge status etc and if not reading properly its not unknown for the car to "sulk". On mine it is "Just" long enough so possiby Halfords have stretched it a bit causing intermittent "fun" after a few journeys have wiggled it a bit.
Of course, it could be something really simple like the Halfords chap hasn't tightened the battery connections properly causing all sorts of electrical mayhem to happen.
Hopefully your dealer can plug in the OBD2 and read any stored codes relating to battery management
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Vengaman,
I have checked the ECU and it's ok. Someone suggested the battery in the key fob could be duff, I took it out and tested it showed 3.1v, I tested a fresh battery 3.26v. I fitted a fresh battery but still didn't work. I then checked the voltage on the car battery 12.6v. I put on my charger it raised the voltage to 12.8v in an hour. I shut the bonnet and everything now works normally. The battery in the spare fob was 2.6v so I have changed that as well. Still awaiting contact from the dealer.
 
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