Yep this is the nightmare scenario which you're unlikely to experience, unless you do own a Renault, which are parked more often on the hard shoulder of the motorway than Kia's (go figure).

Yes EGR reduces the combustion temperature by re-admitting exhaust gas into the intake and thereby reduces the oxygen concentration in the cylinder. Yes this probably reduces the exhaust gas temperature at the turbo inlet a small bit. However the difference in exhaust temp, I don't think, is the cause of serious turbo life shortening.

Turbos more often fail through abuse, like hot shutdowns etc, where there's oil starvation of the bearings, which wears the bearing, increases the clearances, allows the turbine wheels to whirl more, hit the inside of the turbo and the blades beat the insides of the casting, oh and increase oil consumption as more oil leaks out of the worn bearing into the intake tract.

Upshot is blanking off the EGR doesn't kill turbos, poor maintenance and abusive operation kills them.

 

I agree entirely with that. It's just scare stories. Turbos were around long before EGR valves and worked well enough. Also petrol turbos cope with exhaust gasses a couple of hundred degrees hotter than diesel.

 

I took the car to local garage who advised that EGR valve needs replacing. Is there any guide available for EGR replacement?

 

Hi (my first post here).

This is a great resource for my kia, have found some great information.

I have an 07 model with 50k on the
clock, I don't think the egr is broken.. but the car isn't behaving as well
as i'd like. For example it kangaroo's occasionally on very light
throttle in second.

So far I have
downloaded from the ecu, found the egr map and flattened it out so the
egr is closed at all rpm. I've not applied it to the car yet.

I am not planning to do anything mechanical to the car, I see this as an equivelent to what sgarre13 has done and he is obviously pleased with the result.

My plan is to test it like this for the moment without looking for the error code related to the oxygen sensor. I am wondering if the sensor trigger has a dependency on the egr map otherwise you could potentially get false positives. For example I read a post on here (sorry I forgot who) of someone who had a fast day on the autobahn, presumably for most of this day the egr was closed.

If I get the error and the limp mode (which honestly I expect I will) I will take it from there, either by setting the map to 95% (equivalent to putting a hole in a blanking plate), or finding the error code and either removing it or widening it's parameters.

I am very busy at the moment, I'm hoping to apply the new map this weekend and if all goes well put some mileage in to test. I will report back with my findings, if I am able to do it successfully I would be happy to supply instructions.

 

By the way it would be really interesting to see the remap on stuart s car, I don't know if you have the file? I'm not really interested in more power on my car but it would be interesting to see how they have achieved it.

 

OK so that didn't work

I got a management light straight away.
After some further reading changing the EGR map only works on EDC15 ecu,withthe EDC16C39 ecu on therio you need to change the map that adjusts EGR control depending on outside temperature. The EGR duty cycle is reduced during cold weather, and with these temperaturemaps you can completely turn it off through the whole temperature range.

I just need to spend some time finding these maps, they are harder to find than the EGR map.

Just for info though the EGR map is very aggressive on the rio, especially at low air flow. When I compare it to an exampleVW mapthe vw gets a lot more fresh air at low air flow. No wonder itdoesn't drive very well feathering the throttle around town.

 

I found the temperature maps (EGR hysteresis), turned them off and applied them to my car.

All good so far and the difference in driving is more pronounced than i expected, much smoother on the throttle at low speeds and less booming vibration below 1500rpm which was bothering me.

While I think my EGR was still functioning I think it could have done with a service so the difference it makes is probably different from car to car.

I did get hold of a pre 07 model original hex file and it has fewer maps than the one in my 07 model. The maps I can identify are identical between the 2 (egr map, driver wish etc), there are just additional maps in there which goes along with the findings here that the resistor trick didn't work on popshots 07, but does on sgarre13's earlier car. Maybe there are some additional sensors/dependencies involved.

If anyone is interested I will post up my original file and the one with the EGR off. My money invested in doing this is £8 for a galletto 1260 cable, although I did spend some time researching how to do it.

Software wise I used a demo version of Winols to help find the maps and once i was happy copied the changed parts of the hex dump to TunerPro to save the modified file. You cannot save the file in Winols demo and the software is very expensive.

Time to kick back and hopefully drive a lot of miles! If I run into any problems i'll post back.

 

Wow! Wish I knew what you are talking about! I'm just an old dinosaur but well impressed!

 

Sounds very interesting Jonti, keep us posted...

 

Thanks guys, still running fine so far.

Does anyone have a photo of the EGR location at all? I'm thinking of physically blanking it off but I can't find a workshop manual..

 

Back of engine, on top of exhaust manifold is a metal pipe about 1" diameter that runs to EGR which is on the left side of the car. Easiest to block it off at the manifold end IIRC.

 

thanks popshot, i'll give it a go when the weather gets a bit warmer.

 

Just to be sure

The gold pipe with the ribbing, is this the manifold side?

http://s9.postimg.org/d2omc4vnj/IMG_20150220_172226.jpg

 

Yes this is the EGR pipe where it connects to the exhaust manifold.

 

Thanks!

 

I blanked it off at the manifold thanks for the help.

The manifold bolts were quite stubborn and I ended up rounding one off. Used an erbauer bolt extraction kit from screwfix which worked well would recommend.

Didn't make any difference to the car though, it's still driving the same as when I turned it off via the ecu. The reason I did it is I'm still getting a small amount of jerky throttle response on a light throttle, I was wondering if the EGR might have been stuck open a little with soot but obviously not..

it's easy enough to drive around the problem, may or may not try a different throttle pedal..

 

So tonight my 2011 ceed sw could not rev over 3000rpm so stuck my fault code reader on her and got the egr fault. Left car for a bit and went out for another drive and seems to have resolved itself and car pulls like a train to the redline. Possible sticky egr valve

Davy

 

Hi Jonti!

I´ve been reading your posts and they are great. I also have a 07 Kia ceed. I´m in the process of inhibiting the EGR valve. I found the EGR maps at 1C2464 and 1C26A8 and flattened them out at 705 and the second one at 819. But I cant find the temperature maps (EGR hysteresis).
You said "If anyone is interested I will post up my original file and the one with the EGR off."
Can you send it to me? or post it?That would be a great help.
Did someone sent you the Rioremappedfiles? Not interested in it but I would like to see what was done.

Thanks
Steven

 

Hi Steven,

Don't touch the EGR maps, leave them as default, you cannot use that method on the EDC16C39 ecu's.

The EGR hysteresis maps are two 18x1 maps at1C4F70 and1C4FD6. Flatten them both out to 0 and you will turn the EGR off.

Mine has been off and running fine now for over 6 months.

Good luck!

 

By the way... no I didn't get any remapped files sorry.

 

This is my original hex file and modified file with EGR hysteresis off.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=48477971567259766595

Please nobody just upload this to their car, only use it as a reference for modifying your own original hex dump. There may be a number of different versions...

 

This is my original hex file and modified file with EGR hysteresis off.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=48477971567259766595

Please nobody just upload this to their car, only use it as a reference for modifying your own original hex dump. There may be a number of different versions...

THANKS

Thats a great help. With this file I could compare it with my Ceed´s file and its a charm.
I´ll have it uploaded to the ecu late next week then I´ll let you know.

Thanks once again.
Best wishes
Steven from Portugal

 

This is my original hex file and modified file with EGR hysteresis off.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=48477971567259766595

Please nobody just upload this to their car, only use it as a reference for modifying your own original hex dump. There may be a number of different versions...

Thanks Jonti,

Going to try the EGR OFF today.

Do you have DAMOS for Kia (EDC16C39)?

Thanks
Steven

 

This is my original hex file and modified file with EGR hysteresis off.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=48477971567259766595

Please nobody just upload this to their car, only use it as a reference for modifying your own original hex dump. There may be a number of different versions...

Thanks Jonti,

Going to try the EGR OFF today.

Do you have DAMOS for Kia (EDC16C39)?

Thanks
Steven

Jonti,

Got it working, the EGR is OFF but still installed without any plate. When I lift the throttle pedal their is still some ingestion. I have to blank it out.

Started doing some calculations to maximize the original turbo without killing it, going for 90Hp.

Thanks once again

 

Hi All, Great EGR discussion here.I had my Sportage towed about a year ago as on startup engine would cut out straight away. Garage reported EGR Fault and cost of replacement with labout ‚¬500. I asked garage to remove clean and re-install for which they charged ‚¬180 labour. My wife mostly drives the car but recently we have swapped cars and I notice the lag issue on accelerating at low gears low revs. I had blanked off the EGR on my own Focus 1.8 diesel with great success which made the car more fuel efficient. I did this as on the Focus 1.8 the EGR is easily accessible. I now turn my attention back to the Sportage and see that the same job of blanking the EGR is a pain so I am going to opt for the Electronic solution which has been mentioned previously on this thread. I have measured the Coil resistance of the EGR valve and its 7.9 Ohms so I am going to get a 8 Ohm resistor and install it across the terminal that plugs onto the EGR Valve. That Should fool the ECU into thinking the EGR valve is still operational while the EGR will remain in closed position.

Questions:Has anyone done this to date and if so how did it go?

Thanks all,
Regards
Brian