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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2008 Rio II CRDI with A/C.
I need to replace the auxiliary drive belt. Where do I start? Do I take the wing off? How do it take the tension off? Any hints or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Good morning.. can you tell me if your engine code is D4FA and is the engine a 1.5 diesel .. Hyundai/Kia also used a 1.4 and 1.6 diesel as well.. if yours is a 1.5 then I can give you a complete manual for that engine..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good morning.. can you tell me if your engine code is D4FA and is the engine a 1.5 diesel .. Hyundai/Kia also used a 1.4 and 1.6 diesel as well.. if yours is a 1.5 then I can give you a complete manual for that engine..
That's brilliant, yes it is the 1.5 D4FA with air con. I'd be eternally grateful for a manual. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. That's really helpful. There's torque settings and loads of stuff in there that will be useful.
When it comes to the serpentine belt, I've not been all the way through it yet, but as far as I can see it simply says "remove the belt" but it doesn't tell you how to do it.
I think I'll start with taking the wheel and inner wing off and seeing where that gets me. At least the manual has a diagram of the route it takes and tells me which pulley is the tensioner😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, as usual on this car, I found that what looked like it was going to be a nightmare turned out to be not that difficult.
Although you can barely get your hand down to touch the belt from the top, there's a plastic cover at the bottom of the wing held on by 2 bolts that, with the wheel off, gives you access to the crank pulley and the tensioner. You release the tension with a socket (12mm I think) on the tensioner body and the old belt comes off quite easily.
Getting the new one on is a bit faffier because it's stiffer, you could put it in hot water which might help. I tied the socket wrench handle to the wishbone to keep the tensioner spring compressed so I could use both hands, which made it easier, but getting the vees in the grooves on all the pulleys makes all the difference.
The alternator pulley was the hardest and if you have big hands you may need to find a small child to get to that one.
The most important thing is to draw a diagram of the pulleys and the route the belt takes going through them. It may look obvious, but if you can't get the new belt on straight away, ( for instance if the new one is the wrong size, or if you discover a problem with one of the driven units) then it might not appear so obvious when you next come to it.

The old belt was quite cracked and definitely needed changing, but it hasn't cured the problem which is a rhythmic rattle at the top of the engine. Since changing the belt I've used a metal bar on my ear and narrowed it down to the injector delivery pump, which is chain driven and requires engine removal to get to.
I don't have the facilities to do that and I don't think the car is worth it.
I'm going to live in the hope that it's just a rattly chain/tensioner and that it will keep going for another couple of years yet😳
 
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