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Ok then...
Let me see if I can explain this without confusing myself :confused:

I have found the diodes, they are actually as previously mentioned on the inners of the dome light assembly just next to the bulbs. Now I dont have a multimeter, but another device (the name fails me right now) where you can check for current. ie two wee prongy things with one which lights up a wee light (you can probably notice I am not a sparky;)).

Anywho, I placed the tester on the diode connections and can could see that over the diodes there was a current. With the selection switch in the on position I placed the tester on the switch itself and no light with the door ajar but again when checking the diodes individually I could see that a current went over them...
I hope the rudimentary pic helps understand what I am trying to say.... No = no light Ok= Light on Tester on but no dome light came on.

So my question is now, although I am getting a light over the diodes does that prove they are ok. With the door switch set to on, I should get a light between the diodes where I have marked it as no, or is that not the case. Same as the actual switch, the 2 copper points they have a very dim light on when the switch is set to the off position, when at the on position there is no light on the tester.
Should the actual switch be faulty, has anyone here replaced one before and if yes... How the hell do you get this switch removed? I have tried prying the clips and pushing it through, but it seems to me that the slot is not big enough and is being blocked by the grey part where the 2 copper points are, can this be removed? I'd hate to force it apart and then break the whole thing completely :confused:

Look forward to your replies :cool:



Test results.PNG
20200208_123318.jpg
 

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Your testing method is not sound and proves nothing. Try this: If you bridge the diode (short it out) the dome light should work normally (but when you turn the dome light on with the switch other interior lights will also come on). Alternatively just replace the diodes - they are pennies each - make sure you fit them the correct way round.

Post a picture of your tester?
 

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Ones a + the other a -.... make and model I couldnt say, its from a friend of mine, I just wanted to see if a current flows, which in turn made me think that the diodes are ok as the current flowed through it :confused:
 

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The problem may be that you are testing with the diode in circuit. The tester may be showing a current path through the bulb and wiring.

A diode is directional so reverse the test lead connection to see if the tester still lights. If the tester lights then it is most likley finding a "back path" or the diode has failed in a short circuit condition which would not cause the fault you are reporting.

As the photo shows the diode is welded to the connections it is not possible to test it out of circuit. As Turnip suggested short the diode out to see if the light (along with the others) come on when the door is open.

An alternative test may be to test with one tester connection to the car body (ground/earth) and then probe each end of the diode with the doors open, then closed. Repeat for the other diode and door switch, the results should be the same. But not knowing the exact nature of your tester this may break the tester. You would be far better off with a cheapo multimeter if you can borrow or buy one. ( Screwfix have one for £9.99 but they can be got cheaper) Then you could measure the voltages to establish where the problem is.
 

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Ones a + the other a -.... make and model I couldnt say, its from a friend of mine, I just wanted to see if a current flows, which in turn made me think that the diodes are ok as the current flowed through it :confused:
OK so I am guessing that the lights show the polarity of the voltage applied to the probes (and to some extent the brightness will be indicative of the voltage present) Try the probes on your battery and observe what happens, then reverse the probes and try again. I am expecting one of the lights to illuminate and the other one when the probes are reversed.

This being so the device does not detect current, it detects voltage. Set up the car to the conditions where the light should be on. Connect one probe to ground (a convenient metallic body part) and use the other probe on the end of the diode without the stripe. The tester light comes on. Try the same probe on the stripe end of the diode and if the tester light does not come on then the diode is FUBAR. To prove the point repeat the same testing on the other light/door/diode
 

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Thanks Turnup,

I'll give that a go, worst case I will replace the diodes, already got a soldering Iron, just need to see what type of diodes I need, I cant make out the number on them :confused:
 

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Snip them out and you can probably then read them. Make a note of which end the stripe is so you can put the replacements in the right way round.
 

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Gonna take the soldering iron to them tomorrow, actually more, day after tomorrow... then its off to see if I can find a sparky store here in Frechen who store diodes
 

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Gonna take the soldering iron to them tomorrow, actually more, day after tomorrow... then its off to see if I can find a sparky store here in Frechen who store diodes
Looks to me like they are spot welded not soldered. Snip the wires off and leave a tag to solder the replacement to.

Unless you are very lucky you will struggle to find diodes available in retail outlets - Maplins used to have that kind of stuff. If you have the part number (something like 1N4004) then use your search engine. Maplins, Farnell, Radiospares
 

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Thanks Trunup,

will snip the wires on them and replace both.
I live in Germany, so kinda hoping to find some diodes at one of my 2 local sparky shops. If all else fails, theres always the interweb:cool:
 

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Well... here's an update...

It all works fine again.

I changed the diodes in the light assembly and low and behold, doors open, light comes on, doors close... and lights go off again after a short while...

Job done..

Thanks for your help guys (y):cool:(y)
 

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Well done. Could you help others by:

a) posting a short "how to" on getting the light cluster out

b) what is the part number of the diode?
 

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The how to is quite simple.
The lens removal is covered on here under replacing the festoon bulbs with Led's.
There are two self tappers that hold the light fitting in place.
Pull the fitting down and it will hang on the connector connected to the wiring loom.
Tie a piece of string to the loom wire behind the connector plug, (it can disappear into the head lining when you unplug it).
Unplug the light unit and look at the back, the diode is a small black rod with a white band (cathode) and a wire out of each end.
The original diode would be 1N4004 but I always use 1N4007.
Cut out the original diode as close to it's body as possible using side snips, leaving the wires spot welded to the pads as long as possible.
Solder the new diode in place and reassembly is the reverse.
 

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As Captain23 said ;-)
Total piece of cake...
Unlike replacing the GPS arial... Taking the dash apart was a pain in the backside (thats putting it politely ;-) )
 
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