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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, my ,63 ceed sw has had a low biting point since I bought it at 26 months old with 127k miles on it. After 9 months I had a new genuine clutch put in. The biting point moved a little upwards, nothing really. After a further two years plus, I'm starting to think it's biting a bit lower, about two to three cm of the floorboards. I've read as much as I can about the subject without finding the definitive answer. I'm assuming the clutch itself is ok. I've looked at the slave cylinder rod and it appears to start moving as soon as my assistant says the pedal is pressed. There's no sign of a leak or any indication of any air in the system. I'm happy to put in a new master cylinder, just not convinced it will raise the biting point. The clutch pedal is at a similar height to that of the brake pedal. When you press it by hand it goes down a bit (3cm ish) before more resistance is felt.

I know other kia models have been reported with this problem, is it a master cylinder fault?
 

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I have the same with my '62 Ceed. Very low biting point. Not had any clutch problems because of it - just takes me by surprise after driving the wife's car.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, I'm not convinced that changing the clutch master cylinder (and the slave) will cure the problem, or even lift the biting point up a bit. The master cylinder is £72 delivered for the original kia part. Perhaps it's just a build up of tolerances in some cars that make them like this. I'll only actually do something when it starts becoming difficult to drive. I've got a more pressing rough tickover/low speed running problem that needs to be looked at. I'm going to change the diesel fuel filter and clean out the egr valve. I've an mot going up in June, need to get it through then I'll get rid later on in year.
 

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Mine is the same, 72k miles. Low biting point, near the floor around 1 inch away. Clutch replaced under warranty at 25k miles and no other issues, doesn't slip and judder.

I asked Kia to check and they said they'd need to strip down to check everything, could be warranty otherwise I'd have to pay so I'm not risking it.

I wonder if the system just needs bleeding? Have you tried that?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm tempted to put a new master cylinder on. On ebay there's a valeo one for less than £30, it's for a lhd ceed, the photos look the sane as the one for the rhd car. Might buy one and fit, still unsure that that would fettle it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rather than replace the master cylinder, I again searched the internet, this time for low biting point hyundai. Found a solution fairly quickly. The master cylinder has a fluid damper next to it, this needs to be removed and a m16 1.5 sump plug inserted. I haven't done it yet, it sounds plausible to me. The main dealers should know this, but they don't, I replaced my full clutch because a service manager said it would be a weak cover plate. I'll post here the results, it's a simple job with a quick bleed afterwards.
 

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Rather than replace the master cylinder, I again searched the internet, this time for low biting point hyundai. Found a solution fairly quickly. The master cylinder has a fluid damper next to it, this needs to be removed and a m16 1.5 sump plug inserted. I haven't done it yet, it sounds plausible to me. The main dealers should know this, but they don't, I replaced my full clutch because a service manager said it would be a weak cover plate. I'll post here the results, it's a simple job with a quick bleed afterwards.
Did you try this workaround? I've got a '63 Ceed SW and I'm really having to dig the clutch pedal into the carpet to get the gears to engage without grinding. I don't think the clutch is worn yet as no sign of slipping, but I guess in this state with it never completely disengaging, it will be wearing out quicker than it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi, firstly low speed judder has now gone due to a few doses of millers diesel additive. I tried the clutch damper mod which had no effect. The repeated bleeding gave me 6 months of slightly higher bitting point. Now with winter here it’s getting bad again. Not sure what I’ll do, need to keep the car a while longer. It’s on 181k now, engine is beautiful. Had the car 4 yrs now, only paid £5450 so not complaining. If I make any headway will report back
 

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Just to update that I found this post very useful in leading my research, I did this sump plug fix on mine. The clutch biting point was low and now it's more progressive and fully bites a lot further up the pedal travel.

I used this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171640560286

Taking the part off that contains the damper is fairly easy, you'll need a decent spanner to remove the clutch pipe nut. I had to heat the damper up with a map gas torch then grab it with some water meter grips to get it to spin off. Bleeding took a bit of time on my own but I managed it, I wedge some wood against the seat and the clutch pedal once you get some pressure, allows me to open the bleed nipple at the slave cylinder to release the fluid/air. I think if vacuum bleed the system it might help.

I'm going to buy some Cetane booster and run that through each tank, I'm hoping it helps the engine response and mpg.

PS. Kia wanted to remove my gearbox to investigate the issue when I reported it at the last service, suprised they aren't aware of the damper issue?
 

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Hi, my ,63 ceed sw has had a low biting point since I bought it at 26 months old with 127k miles on it. After 9 months I had a new genuine clutch put in. The biting point moved a little upwards, nothing really. After a further two years plus, I'm starting to think it's biting a bit lower, about two to three cm of the floorboards. I've read as much as I can about the subject without finding the definitive answer. I'm assuming the clutch itself is ok. I've looked at the slave cylinder rod and it appears to start moving as soon as my assistant says the pedal is pressed. There's no sign of a leak or any indication of any air in the system. I'm happy to put in a new master cylinder, just not convinced it will raise the biting point. The clutch pedal is at a similar height to that of the brake pedal. When you press it by hand it goes down a bit (3cm ish) before more resistance is felt.

I know other kia models have been reported with this problem, is it a master cylinder fault?
I had a bent release arm so it wouldn't push the clutch fully open so it dragged ( the biting point was really low now its ok) they paid for all the work I paid for a new clutch as it had done 80000 miles
 

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My clutch biting point was getting very low again, I bled the system with a Mityvac, no change.

I got myself under the dash in the footwell and noticed the clutch master cylinder has a little plastic arm that protrudes can connects to a lug on the clutch metal. The plastic hole in the arm looks to have worn, so it's no longer a snug fit. When you push the pedal it moved 1/2mm before pushing on the rod meaning you were loosing travel.

To test I removed the retaining clip, put some folded up duct tape in the gap to take up the slack and then reassembled, the clutch biting point moved up around an inch.

New part is £77 delivered (full master cylinder), I'll mention it at service and ask the tech to comment, it may be warranty item. If not I'll replace it.
 

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Our Sportage has a very low biting point too, always has.
Picanto doesn't.
 

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Our Sportage has a very low biting point too, always has.
Picanto doesn't.
When you say very low, do you mean just above the floor? Has it always been like that?

Mine was quite similar I believe, but the plastic push rod wearing over the last 77k miles has probably reduced engagement where reverse was getting a bit crunchy at times.

Here's the part I'll use if Kia aren't willing to sort it - Genuine Clutch Master Cylinder Kia Ceed 2012-2016 1.6 CRDi (128 bhp) Diesel
 

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When you say very low, do you mean just above the floor? Has it always been like that?
Not far off the floor.
It wasn't like that at new, no.
I did point it out to the dealer, but they said/did nothing....no surprise there.
We've just left it as it's going away soon - same with the sticky steering.
 

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The feeling and feedback during clutch engagement was slightly different to what I was used to when I first drove my Kia.

Replacing the gear oil with the specified 75w-85 GL4, made it smoother. Bleeding the clutch hydraulic line later improved the feeling in the pedal.

In this summer heat its almost as smooth as the best jap cars.
 

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When you say very low, do you mean just above the floor? Has it always been like that?

Mine was quite similar I believe, but the plastic push rod wearing over the last 77k miles has probably reduced engagement where reverse was getting a bit crunchy at times.

Here's the part I'll use if Kia aren't willing to sort it - Genuine Clutch Master Cylinder Kia Ceed 2012-2016 1.6 CRDi (128 bhp) Diesel
I ended up fitting this myself, it resolved the issue and the biting point is nearer the middle.
 

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Hi, my ,63 ceed sw has had a low biting point since I bought it at 26 months old with 127k miles on it. After 9 months I had a new genuine clutch put in. The biting point moved a little upwards, nothing really. After a further two years plus, I'm starting to think it's biting a bit lower, about two to three cm of the floorboards. I've read as much as I can about the subject without finding the definitive answer. I'm assuming the clutch itself is ok. I've looked at the slave cylinder rod and it appears to start moving as soon as my assistant says the pedal is pressed. There's no sign of a leak or any indication of any air in the system. I'm happy to put in a new master cylinder, just not convinced it will raise the biting point. The clutch pedal is at a similar height to that of the brake pedal. When you press it by hand it goes down a bit (3cm ish) before more resistance is felt.

I know other kia models have been reported with this problem, is it a master cylinder fault?
I did that six months ago and it worked a treat, sixmonths on pedal is getting close to floor again, i notice the slave cylinder push rod rod has a plastic end, that will be my next operation, slave cylinder £25, been driving 45 years, worked on many types of vehicle and never had this problem but it cannot be magic. Try replacing the pressure limiting valve with a sump plug £4. On eBay, it does work, for a while.
 

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I got myself under the dash in the footwell and noticed the clutch master cylinder has a little plastic arm that protrudes can connects to a lug on the clutch metal. The plastic hole in the arm looks to have worn, so it's no longer a snug fit. When you push the pedal it moved 1/2mm before pushing on the rod meaning you were loosing travel.

To test I removed the retaining clip, put some folded up duct tape in the gap to take up the slack and then reassembled, the clutch biting point moved up around an inch.
Its a tight fit getting to the pedals! I got a picture of my master cylinder/pedal connection and there is a big gap making this connection quite loose - I'd expect it to be a lot tighter than that.
7617


This leads to significant movement of the pedal before the master cylinder moves. Does anyone know if this is eliminated with a new master or if this is actually how it should be??

7618
 

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The part appears to be plastic and to have more free-play than it should, however in the the photo the hole appears circular and without wear. The amount of freeplay in the pedal looks fairly normal too.
It may be eliminated by a new master cylinder if a new plastic arm is included with the cylinder.
Does the pin going thru the pedal arm have the correct orientation? It would appear from the photo that if it could be rotated 190 deg clockwise then slack would be eliminated.
Have the blue mark facing forwards, not backwards.
 
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