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what do faults p1120 and p1119 mean?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello !!Im a little new here and am desperate for any help any one might want to offer?
my amber "check engine" warning lamp illuminates when the car is driven and it seems to come on more when you drive it harder. as soon as you slow down the light goes out until the next time you put your foot down.
I have checked it with a blue point eobd2 code reader which shows no faults????
I have also checked it with a slightly more fancy code reader that is capable of looking at manufacturer specific fault codes and this tool gives me fault codes of P1120 and P1119.
also the car is getting harder to start where you have to crank it a lot longer before it will actualy fire up.
have just futted a new (genuine) kia fuelfilter and it has made no difference at all

As i say any help or advice will be welcomed with open arms!!!!!

Thanks
Jim
 

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Hi Jim,
Engine check light usually indicates a problem with the emissions side of the engine, could be the EGR valve, leaking vacuum hose. Just had a look at the Kia fault codes and niether of yours are listed
http://www.kia-forums.com/do-yourself/33370-all-kia-trouble-codes.html
Googled it and
P1120 comes up as throttle position sensor!
P1119: Manifold absolute temperature circuit high input
Although these codes relate to a Hyundai vehicle!
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<b style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-style: initial; border-color: initial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; outline-width: 0px; outline-style: initial; outline-color: initial; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; line-height: 20px; ">Perhaps someone with a bit more knowledge may be able to help,[/b]
<b style="border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-style: initial; border-color: initial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; outline-width: 0px; outline-style: initial; outline-color: initial; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; line-height: 20px; ">Alan[/b]

Edited by: alcutler
 

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As Al replies it could be the egr valve! If the check light comes on then goes off - it means that there is a problem but its sorted itself out. If the problem remains then it is logged with a fault code which can be read by a good reader. The code which you found might not be for the Kia (although Hyundai and Kia are related), which is why Al could not find the codes listed on the Kia guide?
 

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Done a bit of research for you Jim - all stuff off the Tinterweb so not 100% certain but sounds about right.Looks like P1119 is the oxygen temperature sensor on your exhaust / manifold. There are 2 fitted one before the Cat and a second after- its the first one that is showing the gasses temp are too high. Could be a dodgy sensor or the wiring connecting it. A faulty egr valve can also cause an increase in the gases temperature.
P1120 could be completely unrelated or could have been thrown up as a result of the first fault.
I think I would be inclined to concentrate on the oxygen sensor first and then see what happens. Start by checking the connections to the sensor.
Hope that helps,
Alan


Edited by: alcutler
 

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Hi, just had my sedona 2.9crdi 06 with the same starting problems checked out. It came back with the codes P1119 & P1120 and apparently they relate to the diesel pump, I've been told that the pump is wearing out and putting fragments of metal through to the injectors. The garage flushed the system but couldn't give me any idea how long it would last. It will be needing a new pump and injectors, and the whole system cleaned from tank to injector pipes. A total cost of £2000
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi.iwas told exactly the same as you!!!!!!
I have now fitted 4 brand new injectors @ a cost of £800 and iv fitted a 2nd hand pump off a low mileage 06 plate sedona £250. iv also replaced the cam belt £60 and a brand new genuine fuel filter £40.
This fixed every thing for about 60 ish milesBUT the power has now just de rated and the warning light has come back on.
I am now scrapping it and will never entertain owning a kia ever again
 

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If it does it in normal driving it can be the brake light switch . The brake light switch, on thecrdi at least, has two sets of connections to it in the one connection. One set operate the brake lights & the second tell the ecu when it is being operated . This is why you can't dry the brakes out after driving through water. If you have your foot on the accelerator & brake at the same time the ecu will shut engine down to tickover & bring up the eml light, until you relaese the accelerator when it will return to normal.
Two things can cause it to come on , on its own . 1 ) Not enough adjustment on the pedal to switch which means vibration can cause the switch to appear on to the ecu so causing the eml to light & engine to go into safe mode ( tickover ) Brake lights would probably be flashing on & off as well ! .
2) the brake pedal ,when returned to rest, is pushing the switch still & creating pressure on the plastic switch housing, which eventually causes the plastic part to become loose in the metal housing so creating intermittent connections.
If you press th e brake pedal & attempt to waggle the plastic part were the wires connect , if it has movement then it's possible to dismantle & crimp back the two lugs to tighten it all up again. It hardly takes any movement at all to affect the switch operation.
When reassembling the switch only needs to be screwed in until the brake lights go off+ 1 turn. After locking the lock nut check that you can still move the switch plunger back to ensure that the weight of the pedal is not resting on the switch.
Hope this helps.
 

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Hi Gus-lopez would the brake switch stop the car from starting ? This all has started over the last couple of months. I am feeling the same as you Powelly might just cut my losses and scrap the thing, just seems a shame that a car with only 33800 miles on the clock should go that way.
Regards Mark
 

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powelly said:
Hi.iwas told exactly the same as you!!!!!!
I have now fitted 4 brand new injectors @ a cost of £800 and iv fitted a 2nd hand pump off a low mileage 06 plate sedona £250. iv also replaced the cam belt £60 and a brand new genuine fuel filter £40.
This fixed every thing for about 60 ish milesBUT the power has now just de rated and the warning light has come back on.
I am now scrapping it and will never entertain owning a kia ever again




Who's your Garage? "I saw You Coming & Son's"?? Fuel pump pressure can be checked by a decent garage or Main Dealer, very unlikely for injectors to go. Get your vehicle tested by a reputable garage or Main Dealer!! You will save money at the end of the day
 

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Hi Mininut,
I have been quoted over £2000 to sort out my pump issue !! Once it has started it runs fine even when the engine light comes on. Just is very annoying that it takes about 30 seconds of turning over to get it to start from cold
 

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Hi. reading your first post - re: metal fragments in injectors ?? seriously- if that was the case doubt if your engine would start at all , the injectors would be shot! Did they find any metal in the fuel? doubt they looked.Is your battery up to scratch (that's the first port of call) diesel engines need a hell of a good spin to start unlike petrol engines.
Cam sensors need to be checked, Crankshaft sensor (unlikely) to check.
EGR valve usually gets clogged up on high mileage diesel turbo engines.
Unless you'r clued up on these things you are going to struggle to find the cause, no matter what is suggested.
You would be better off visiting a decent garage, one which is recommended and has proper KIA diagnostics
 

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MININUT said:
Hi. reading your first post - re: metal fragments in injectors ?? seriously- if that was the case doubt if your engine would start at all , the injectors would be shot! Did they find any metal in the fuel? doubt they looked.Is your battery up to scratch (that's the first port of call) diesel engines need a hell of a good spin to start unlike petrol engines.
Cam sensors need to be checked, Crankshaft sensor (unlikely) to check.
EGR valve usually gets clogged up on high mileage diesel turbo engines.
Unless you'r clued up on these things you are going to struggle to find the cause, no matter what is suggested.
You would be better off visiting a decent garage, one which is recommended and has proper KIA diagnostics
Have to agree with everything Mininut has said - could I also add that I have had a similar problem recently, with a Vauxhall Vectra 1.9cdti I own, that had to be wound up to start it especially from cold and even when warm it had to be turned over for some time before it would start. It always sounded as though the battery was on its last legs even though I had replaced it and the alternator. I replaced/ cleaned all the usual suspects, egr valve, glowplugs,sensors, etc but still it wouldn't start. In the end a mechanic friend suggested changing the starter motor - I wasn't convinced but did it and it solved the problem - the engine turned over at twice the speed it was doing before I fitted it and now, when cold, I don't even have to wait for the glow plug warning light to extinguish before turning the key and it starts first time.
The old motor never failed to turn the engine over but obviously not fast enough to allow it to start. The motor looked ok apart from a lot of wear in the bearing at the front of the motor near the small gear that meshes with the flywheel.
Appreciate this is a different make of vehicle, and something else to worry about - but certainly worth considering.

Edited by: alcutler
 

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alcutler said:
MININUT said:
Hi. reading your first post - re: metal fragments in injectors ?? seriously- if that was the case doubt if your engine would start at all , the injectors would be shot! Did they find any metal in the fuel? doubt they looked.Is your battery up to scratch (that's the first port of call) diesel engines need a hell of a good spin to start unlike petrol engines.
Cam sensors need to be checked, Crankshaft sensor (unlikely) to check.
EGR valve usually gets clogged up on high mileage diesel turbo engines.
Unless you'r clued up on these things you are going to struggle to find the cause, no matter what is suggested.
You would be better off visiting a decent garage, one which is recommended and has proper KIA diagnostics
Have to agree with everything Mininut has said - could I also add that I have had a similar problem recently, with a Vauxhall Vectra 1.9cdti I own, that had to be wound up to start it especially from cold and even when warm it had to be turned over for some time before it would start. It always sounded as though the battery was on its last legs even though I had replaced it and the alternator. I replaced/ cleaned all the usual suspects, egr valve, glowplugs,sensors, etc but still it wouldn't start. In the end a mechanic friend suggested changing the starter motor - I wasn't convinced but did it and it solved the problem - the engine turned over at twice the speed it was doing before I fitted it and now, when cold, I don't even have to wait for the glow plug warning light to extinguish before turning the key and it starts first time.
The old motor never failed to turn the engine over but obviously not fast enough to allow it to start. The motor looked ok apart from a lot of wear in the bearing at the front of the motor near the small gear that meshes with the flywheel.
Appreciate this is a different make of vehicle, and something else to worry about - but certainly worth considering.




Aha, yes missed that bit, although I have only found one or two motors to be faulty! Glad I'm on the same planet
 

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Thanks for the replies Mininut & Alcutler, one thing that make me think you may be right with the battery situation. When the starting issue raised its head I check the battery and found it was the original Kia battery which would be six years old, it would drain before the engine started. I borrowed a 240volt starter from work and the engine fired staight up. I checked the input from the alternator and it read 18 volt so I replaced the battery for a nearly new one which had the staying power but still took 30 or more seconds to start
 

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Ok, as Al replied, the starter might be struggling a bit, draining more of the battery as it should -thus- when you connect an extra 12volts it fires straight away, get the starter checked (how much amps it draws while turning) your auto-electrics shop should be able to help out there
 

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Sorry to go on about my Vectra but since changing the starter motor I have noticed that the battery, a GM one, has a charge indicator on it that should be green when the battery was fully charged- prior to replacing the starter motor this indicator was always black which indicates the battery needed charging - now it shows green all the time which indicates to me that the faulty starter was making an excessive drain on the battery which was never fully allowed to recharge !If you know anyone with a Sedona with the same engine but without the starting issues - get them to start the engine and listen to the starter motor speed - I'm sure you will be able to hear if it is turning a lot faster than yours - bit Heath Robinson I know but I could tell the difference in mine as soon as I had fitted it
 

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Rabbit68 said:
Thanks for the replies Mininut & Alcutler, one thing that make me think you may be right with the battery situation. When the starting issue raised its head I check the battery and found it was the original Kia battery which would be six years old, it would drain before the engine started. I borrowed a 240volt starter from work and the engine fired staight up. I checked the input from the alternator and it read 18 volt so I replaced the battery for a nearly new one which had the staying power but still took 30 or more seconds to start
When you say the input from the alternator read 18volt - do you mean putting an ammeter across the terminals of the battery with the engine running and taking the reading - if so that is a high reading - should be around 14.4volts - could be your alternator is faulty and putting out to high a charge that could fry / damage your battery. If your starter is worn and sluggish the best battery in the world will not make it turn over fast enough to solve your starting problems.
Also is the temperature gauge on your dash working ok - this operates from the coolant temperature sensor - which also affects the length of time your glowplugs operate when the engine is cold. If it is faulty the glowplugs may not operate for as long as they should do when the engine is cold - if, before attempting to start the engine, you disconnect the electric plug from this sensor it will cause the glowplug cycle, to run longer and if your engine starts as it should do that will be your problem. This may throw up a warning light on your dash or show a fault code on a diagnostic reader that may need to be cleared.
 

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Before trying to start the engine this morning I took a reading from the battery and the meter read 20.8 volts and the car would not start. Got home this evening and put a charger/starter on and it fired up staright away. I'm going to put a new alternator and battery on and see how we go from there. Just one question, would the engine light come on if the ecu read that the battery volts were too high ?
Thanks for all of you for you help
 
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