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I've just done this, and I couldn't find any one who's written a quick guide on the web, so I though I'd do one...Its not as difficult a job as you think it may be!! It's a long job, a bit of a marathon in fact,but not a particularly difficult one, so if you want to save yourself a few hundred quid, read on.........
Firstly, no special tools are required- this can be done by anyone with a reasonably good tool-kit, and I'm assuming tht because you're reading this and considering tackling it, you've already got the neccesary tools. You will need a trolley jack, a deep reach 17mm socket for the engine mount, plus a good selection of socket extensions becasue you'll need to reach in quite deeply,but that's about it.



Now to get down and dirty!!



Firstly, remove the intercooler- the pipeclips can be difficult: I use a mole grip type welding clamp to compress the tangs and open them.Other than that, it's 2 nuts at the back, 2 bolts at the front, and 2 small rubber pipes to pull off.



Next job, the big engine cover, 4 10mm bolts, and then the coolant header tank,2 10mm bolts and a nut.Now remove the engine undertray, 3 10mm bolts along the front and some really annoying plastic screw type clips under the right hand wheel arch.




Now you can see your engine!!!




Next, remove the auxiliary drive belt, the one that drives the aircon and alternator. The tensioner for this is up above the main enginepulleyto the right. You need to put a 17mm spanner on the bolt in the centre of the tensionerpulley and push it up in a clockwise direction, the pulley will move up and you can then slip the belt off. While you're down there, onto the next job, unbolt the main pulley. The good news her is that you won't need to wrestle with the monstrously torqued centre bolt, there's 4 bolts around the pulley, undo these andtake the pulley off.



Now get your trolley jack out, puta lump of wood on it to spread the load, and jack it up under the sump- the sump is alloy so ensure the wood is between the jack head and the sump to spread the load or the sump will crack.....




Now to the bit which will take ages if it's your first time
the engine mount........grrrrrrrr!!!



With the jack supporting the engine, use a 17mm socket to undo the big long bolt that goes through the centre of the mount-turn the bolt head because what looks like a nut on the bulkhead side of the mount is in fact a fixed nut welded to the mount. Whwn you've got this out, use the deep-reach 17mm socket to remove the two nuts on the engine side of the mount, the two which are on pointed end bolts and a long way down the thread....



Once these are off you can remove the part of the mount with the big rubber donut in it.................and now you need to get the body part of the mount off, and now you'll start to swear
There are 3 bolts on the bottom, and2 at the top to the inner wing, easy peasy you'll think!!! Get these out and remove the coolant header tank bracket and brake and aircon pipe clip from the top of the bracket, and thenyou'll findthese samebrake pipes andaircon pipe are in the way, there's one further bolt holding the aircon pipe which you'll see down below and next to the abs earth point bolt,so remove that.



You'll now need to remove the pas tank out of the way, one 10mm bolt and it lifts out, but leave it connected to it's hosesin the car. Next remove the bracket that holds the pas tank and then undo the abs unit bracketbelow- this has 2 bolts on theinner wing and one below which holds the abs earth connection.



Now, with a lot of up and downing of the jack and wriggling of the brakepipes and swearing, you will eventually get the engine mount out!!!!!




Now remove the plasticbelt covers, 4 10mm bolts in the top part, 5 in the bottom part.

Now you need to get the alloyengine part of the mount off, it's held by 4 bolts which are long and you'll need to leave the bottomleft hand (as you look at it) one loosein the mount as you jack the engine right up to get the mount off.



Now you can see the belt and tensioner assembly!! Woohoo!!!! At last!!!!!



Set the engine into the correct position to remove the belt. There's a line on the bottom(crankshaft) pulley which lies up with a pin that you'll see above the pulley, and there's a line and a mark on the camshft pulley which should be at the 3 o'clock position and lining up with the alloy casing, you'll see what I mean when you do it. Turn the engine using a 22mm socket on the bottom pulley until this is acheived.



Now it's time to remove the old belt- this is the tensioner set-up:







Put a pin of some sort into the hole above B, I used a drill bit, take a 5 mm allen key A and insert it into the allen bolt head, loosen it, and use a 12mm spanner on D to push the tensioner clockwise, the belt will then be loose and you can remove it. Fit the new one starting at the bottom pulley and going round the idler to the cam pulley, and reset the tensiner by pushing the spanner anti-clockwise and tightening the allen bolt. Use the 22mm crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the enge overa couple of times to ensure everything still lines up, and..............from now on, in the immortal workshop manual phrase,reassembly is the reverse of dimantling!!!!




Hope this helps!!! It's a long job as I say, but doable at home.
 

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HI MR RUSTY, FIRSTLY GREAT THREAD M8, COULD YOU PLEASE ANSWER A FEW QUIERES THAT IM SURE OTHER MEMBERS WILL HAVE


<UL>
<LI>WHAT MILEAGE DID YOU CHANGE YOUR BELT?</LI>
<LI>WHAT WAS THE BELT CONDITION ON CHANGING?</LI>
<LI>IS THERE A NEED TO CHANGE THE TENSIONERS AND GUIDES WHEN CHANGING THE BELT AS MOST KITS I HAVE SEEN COME ALL IN?</LI>
<LI>WOULD A 2 TON BOTTLE JACK DO IF A TROLLEY JACK IS NOT AVAILABLE?.</LI>[/list]





CHEERS MR RUSTY

CAVKING
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello Cavking, I did the change at 61500 miles, it said 60000 in the handbook so I thought I'd better get on with it!!


The belt wasn't actually that bad but with these things you never can tell- there was no oil or grease contamination, but I've sween broken belts in the past which've looked fine....so I have no idea how much longer it would've gone on for but given the amount of grief it would cause if it did snap it's not worth taking the risk!



I didn't change the tensioner or idler-they felt fine and spun with no roughness and given the price of the tensioner I didn't want to buy one unless I actually needed it....the belt itself was a Gates's belt, £25 from the local spares shop.



I don't know if you'd be able to use a bottle jack, mainly because the sump sits so low and you need to get a block of wood in as well- what I'd suggest is trying it for size and if it doesn't go put the car up on axle stands to get the extra clearance.



I hope that helps!!
 

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Top write up, spot on with all the nuts bolts sequence and aggro.


I replaced the belt tensioners and rollers, and also did the water pump whilst I was at it, although the old one on inspection seemed pretty good for 75,000 miles.




All in all Isaved myselfnearly £300 the parts came to £138 the cheapest quote I got was £435 fitted, and it took me approx 6 hours including breaks.



Many thanks cavking
 

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Mr Rusty, Thanks so much for posting this - You just saved me £400!



To anyone thinking of doing this I would say if you have a fair degree of mechanical competence, go ahead. When you are jacking the engine to get the engine mount out, don't be afraid - jack it all the way up or you will never get the mount out!



I had the engine check light on when I restarted, but it just needed the intercooler block connector refitting properly.
 
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