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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking of replacing the front pads & discs on my 2003 Carens. Up untill 10 years ago normally carried out such work myself, on english cars I owned,but not being up to speed on Kia's need to ask are any special (service) tools required, and anyone care to tell me the torque settings for the caliper bolts, and the wheel nuts.Also, while my dealer is after £240 to do this work, with genuine Kia parts, I can purchase 'quality' parts off ebay for under £65, has anyone any experience of fitting such parts. Your thoughts welcome............I'll keep you posted how I get on, if I do...................
 

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Hi,


Bit of advice on car spares bought on Ebay ...... There's a lot of alternatives out there for cars. A friend of mine bought some bits for a Mondeo ... Easy you'd think? took him 3 attempts to get the right parts cos the seller didn't know there were different parts fitted to different models!! My advice have a look for your nearest eurocar parts(they do sell other makes parts' too) or mvc or just a good local motor factors ....... as for the torque settings for bolts etc...... just tighten them to what you think ....... don't use a wheel brace to sort out a 10mm bolt!!! The braking system on your Carens will be pretty much the same as the English cars you've done in the past ....... most brake calipers are from the same factories ...... Vehicle manufacturers buy in these sort of items from people like AP Lockheed, Bendix, etc and they are all much of a muchness..... you might find that the caliper bolts are different from one model to the next ie: torx drive, allen bolt or some even use a quinhead bolt although these are normally for the caliper housing!!!!



Take your wheel off, have a look and go from there!!



Regards,



Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi StevieP,
Thanks for the thoughts, will give eurocar parts a bell & see if they can help. Nice to get a feedback, thats what a clubs about, help !....
 

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I did my back pads last week for the first time. The pads cost me £19 and there aren't any special tools required to remove the caliper bolts- they're standard hexagonal ones on my '54 Carens.


The surprise comes however, when you've removed the old pads and are attempting to push the piston back to accomodate the new, thicker pads. Normally on a VW, Ford or Volvo it is a case of pushing the piston back with a bar of some sort. In the case of my Carens I found (after about 30 mins of trial and error) that they are threaded and have to be screwed back into the caliper with a pair of long nosed pliers.

When you see the two little indentations on the face of the piston it becomes obvious what needs to be done, but remember that the one (on the drivers side?) is a left hand thread.



Don't ask me how they unscrew themselves again but I'm assured that they surely doto keep themselves adjusted.



I don't seem to have got the job spot on however as I can hear the on pad feintly scraping against the disc. Its supposed to be held off the disc by two spring clips either side, but as ever these things are nowhere near as springy as they need to beand they don't quite do the job. No doubt the local Kia dealers have got replacements waiting for me at a price no one will be impressed with.



I'm going to do the front brakes this weekend and I presume (somewhat hopefully) that they will operate on a similar principle. If they don't you'll be the first to know. Incidentally, I had to order the front pads in and theycost me £35 quid from the same parts place and are about twice as big as the rear ones, which were purchased "off the shelf", so it seems that spares aren't too difficult to get yer hands on.
 

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Just done the front brake pads on the Carens and it truly was a doddle. It took about twenty minutes and there were absolutely no snags or hidden gimcracks.
The pistons don't screw in like the back ones, but can be pushed back with little effort to accomodate the new pads. The calipers are held in place by two very small studs and there are no retaining clips or springs.



Incidentally, I went to my local Kia dealer to enquire about replacement spring clips for the rear assembly and right enough they only sell them in kits and they cost £26 a set...four little little bits of springy wire for £7 more than the pads. Atrocious.

If there's anyone out there with any viable alternatives to this problem feel free to drop us a line.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got around to renewing my front disc's & pads on my 2003 1.8 petrol SE at last. Looked at various sources of supply to obtain the parts, my local factor wanted £150, eurocar parts were £47 for each disc + pads +delivery, the Kia supplied parts via the club contact was in the same region. So I purchased all I needed off the web, ebay, from a specialist brake supplier in Manchester, they offer a superb matching service via the telephone to make sure the parts are right for your model/year/spec, the total cost from them was £69 plus delivery 24 hr, £15.
Jacking the motor up was easy, using the correct lifting points, and for extra security I also used a extra jack & stands. Removing road wheels no problem, as was removing the calliper fixing bolts and the calliper carrier fixing bolts, all hex. Next came the couple of Phillips headed screws each side which locate the disc onto the hub, these were super tight, a impact driver moved a couple, the others I simply drilled out. Then a bit of the old gentle persuasion with the hammer & the old disc's came away.

New disc's were degreased, & fitted to a cleaned hub, with a smearing of copper grease first applied to the hub. New Phillips headed fixing scews were installed, coated with Never seize, should come out easy next time around. The old pads simply pushed out of their carrier and the new ones were pushed in, the pads are different, one has a lug on, so make sure the right pad goes in the right place. Then the carrier with the new pads was relocated & bolted into place. The calliper piston was pushed back into the body using an old pad & a G clamp, then repositioned ready to refit. At this point check that the fixing on the carrier where the calliper joins has the little washer type lugs turned the correct way to line up with the calliper itself, its like a round washer that has the top & bottom straight edged. Back of the disc's were smeared with copper grease. That done rebolt the calliper, retighted as required, refit road wheels & job done. I should have mentioned being careful when resetting calliper piston that brake fluid doesn't overflow from the res', I placed clean tissue around it & loosened the cap just in case. Build some pressure up in the brakes & check the level.

All in all took me a couple of hours, no sweat & saved £s.
Edited by: Gasgokia
 

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Well chaps what an interesting day so far;
The car decided that the rear offside brake was going to hold on to its bit of disc for a little time, Time enough for the wheel to get red hot and start to smoke, Lovely smell hot baked brake linings.

Ok wheel off, Calliper siezed, Oh joy
outside pad down to about 3 mm ,inside to about 6mm

Only changed them in may for the m.o.t.

Removed pins and sliders after wd40 and devine intervention from above, shouted him a few times, slider through pin had picked up crap, top and bottom, gave them a good clean with wet and dry paper with a little engine oil on, dried them and copper slipped the bushes and worked it through.

Reset hand brake, put it all back together, works fine again now, Thankfully the disc is still running true, Thought the bugger would be warped after that, glad i was not on the motor way, that would have been fun, Probably still been on hard shoulder parking a dark one
 
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