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The tone is still there every time I shut the car off, box or no box installed so does indeed looks like from around the ECU area and the way it should be. Cannot say in terms of smell, not felt it again but the again not pushed it that hard for that amount of time like I did that night either, still think it was the catalytic converter heating up a lot when car is still brand new so should go away.

Got the car fixed but AEB sensor light on dash came back so car must go back into workshop and calibrate better this time around, hence the box is out atm. Yes I did flip it to D, then E but not enough difference for me, it is noticeable that's not the problem the problem is rather me I think. Constantly toying with the idea of dropping all economical demands and go bonkers, maybe a BMW 1 series, new turbo, race cat and full system, intake, injectors and then ECU flash, but then again whatever you do you get used to it too fast so better try to think with my head and not the heart lol. We will see, if car start to mess with me often I may just follow through cause hard to accept for a new car, but hopefully all will sort itself out.

In regards to fuel economy I have the answer why many of you can drive this car so fuel efficient and I cannot, I notice that when starting from a warm garage the fuel economy will drop fast starting to drive, cold starts from the parking spot it will not and me driving lots of short distances I just don't see it drop to those levels.
 

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Cool Bawithlot, way, way better then I can ever see on mine that's for sure, and that is no matter how much I lift off long before reaching a corner, crossing.. No matter how much I plan and try to avoid any stops, always plan red lights and keep car rolling, try my darnest to have that live fuel economy staple not climb any more than what is needed to keep the car rolling and not coming to stand still, I really do fight it hard and to a level where I could never drive like that in daily life it's just way too much work so save those drops of fuel.

The best I have ever seen was when warmer outside and 5.5 liter/100km, but yeah I could for sure accept that or even 6l/100km if I don't have to save fuel that hard cause just want to drive not fight to save those drops, normal everyday savings just driving carefully and and not flooring it it ok, often there is crazy traffic here when I come off work and going home and then you are locked into the rhythm anyway no way around that. Being stressed, very frustrated people stuck in traffic and also clueless to how to semi solve the problem they drive like they do and worsening the situation.

For ex if everyone backed off just a couple of meters and not glued to the behind of the guy in front they do not need to all slam on the brakes creating a problem for km's and km's worth of cars behind at times, but beyond my control so what to do? 😅 I mean I am trying my hardest to avoid those but sometimes impossible, obviously . Those situations do destroy fuel efficiency a lot, work overtime if I can to avoid it but cannot always so..? I know engines in general are at most inefficient at idle, but I can after long periods see the car reach 7.7l/100km or even 8l at in extreme situations, that is what I saw flooring it for almost an hour totally hooligan'ize the neighborhood that night when I thougfh car caught on fire due to the extreme smell not recognized as brakes or clutch haha.
 

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Did an economy run today with my MY21 1.0 turbo - some at 80-90 kph , then similar distance on freeway at about 100kph and trip computer (not real fuel top up test) with air con on gave reading of 4.4 l/100 . Amazing !! Text Colorfulness Font Technology Black
 

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Thanks, yes that sounds a lot more like my readings and realistic in regards to how I drive my car.

I absolutely get that starting up a warm car and go straight out to a highway where you cruise at a relatively slow pace and never stomp the loud pedal can get some fantastic numbers, sadly though for me personally that is very unrealistic to me cause of how I mostly use my car, where I live, 5% ethanol in the tank and a bunch of negatives all adding up.

It's winter here now, ok no snow yet but it's getting colder for sure and often start my car up at some degree C minus, that alone takes a long ride to even start seeing the numbers climb down, but if I start form a warm garage the numbers basically just start off where I ended last time I parked.

Some 8km to work and heavy city traffic at times, not very efficient, have got friends and colleges driving different hybrids, Yaris, Auris, Prius etc and it's quite remarkable how much they beat out my car in terms of city efficient driving, taking to the highway things start to change and even go as far as to say they are opposites in that regard and what I should have looked at to begin with for work transportation. I did to some extent in the beginning, just there is a noticeable price difference and other things to consider too.


The Picanto give a lot for the money, there are so negatives too like noice reduction is non existent imho, had a look under the floor mat and inside the doors, heck I even found water in the doors cause they do have a couple small holes in the bottom but the list is further in so drops of water have straight access to speakers the back way, I know my magnets where wet changing the fronts. I think Dynamat is extremely overpriced for what it is here in Sweden, just a Butyl composite after all. But the car does need something that stick to the floor, then one can have loose laying noise reduction like the stock car have got, see I got information form a company doing this here and they too say it is night and day for these Picantos if I treat the floor and doors. DIY noise reduction like premium cars would be a step forward imho.

In regards to the chip box, i did notice the difference adding it and the different steps too, but what I notice a lot more is not having it in the car now, that is big step removing it and car feels so much slower now haha. :oops:
 

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Cool, yes it makes a difference, kinda wish there was a F setting too for 102 Octane race fuel! 😂

Jokes aside, that's the problem just want more, more, more... They could always update the 1.25l 4 cyl, a new T-GDi and same 6 speed that's in the Rio for a full fledged hot hatch.

It's a decent little car for the money, just pulled a trigger and bought a bulk package dampening material so likely spend first free day in Christmas to pull out the interior and lift the floor carpet, add to whole floor and screw back the interior again. After that the doors, a bit of work but think it can be worth it
 

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It's a decent little car for the money, just pulled a trigger and bought a bulk package dampening material so likely spend first free day in Christmas to pull out the interior and lift the floor carpet, add to whole floor and screw back the interior again. After that the doors, a bit of work but think it can be worth it
I will be very interested in your sound dampening application. Please keep us informed with the final results and some pictures of the install.
Are you doing any dampening under the bonnet?
 

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Probably if need be Greybeard, will do floor first cause talked to a guy at a company doing these things he told he just did a GT line recently and that the biggest one is the the floor and particular the front part of the floor.
Obviously there are multiple places but he claim that one makes most difference and the doors will naturally follow for me anyway when fixing the audio 2 for 1 so to speak but start with floor, testdrive, then at later date keep going and if need be also trunk, bonnet? I will not do roof it's too much and yes I will update with what I did, what I used and results.

Already placed order for Silent Coat Vibrodamping, 7.8 square meters but maily cause I got it for 25% of original asking price here, want to keep it as cheap as I can cause I believe you must not shell out as much as possible on certain brands, it's butyl rubber of sort anyway so.. That will be the main resonance stopper, looking for a top layer of dampening now cause I will do all work under time pressure at borrowed place so from turning off key to turning on key must be same day and start looking there is a bit off clips, trim etc to remove and that's before the job of rolling out the bits so?

If I am not at least somewhat happy after that I see no point in taking it further to be honest, but it should and certain it will make a difference but keep going is too much work for my taste, firewall and wheel arches etc is too much, there are spray products available too but must look original haha.. 😂
 

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it's butyl rubber of sort anyway so
This is indeed good at stopping resonance in flat panels.
I used some on flat aluminium floor under seats (where there was no carpet) on my 2007 Lotus Elise and it stopped a lot of road noise. As it adds density, so no need to cover entire panels, just a decent patch in centre of flat sections that can vibrate.
There was a good video on this forum showing fitting of footwell lighting and this shows some tips on removing trim panels.
 

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Thanks, yes plastic panels, clips is the same but the foot rest looks new to me?

Perhaps cause of steering side and you get the rest cause it's into the middle, towards the mid console but I must double check again in mine if I missed it haha?

I read my gas pedal also need removing but at first glance that does indeed not look like it's true, or perhaps the carpet is split up and the big piece covering all floor is not all that need to go. In that video I can see with the a corner of the big carpet flipped up you still see more under that so I think the "remove gas pedal" part is true after all to reach clean sheet metal.

Ahh we will see, under the seat I have peaked after releasing trim and peaking under the seat, so I feel certain there is small extra piece under lapping in that area he open in the video.

Thanks Greybeard, wish we had ton more videos revoving stuff like carpets, new clutch in, whatever big or small DIY.
 

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Not much of an update cause not done the job, thinking tomorrow and just keep my fingers crossed I can manage to pull all interior out, build the puzzle on the floor inkl testing in all pieces and testing, readjusting, testing floor mat again until original slip in nice and snug against the new dampening, after all that back with all interior and aiming to do all that in just one somewhat short day haha?? 😅

Yes I have a tendency to get stuck on details too, can easily turn perfectionist at times which is a nightmare for my schedule, mayby, just maybe I can cheat if times run out which is very likely, then I could leave the car in pieces over night and return next day to keep going but not if I can avoid it cause it is at work and people can pop in unannounced, start removing my shit all over the floor to pull a car out for some emergency job someone call in it is a bit of a chance to leave it like that!

I have tested to unscrew, disassemble many of the details I need gone already but not everything, you know cause another nightmare would be to get stuck on some tiny detail that refuse to unhook from the clips and just start eating up time. Seats involves airbags too so unhook battery and wait a bit is def a must too, these things are not toys and must work fine afterwards as well I do not want to come crying to the shop about some warranty haha.
What did you do they will say, well sir, I improved the vehicle, which is true in terms of noise reduction I strongly suspect.

So bought 2 boxes of the first vibration dampening layer, Silent Coat 2mm, on top of that there will be a layer of noise and climate controlling mat of STP Splen 04 of which I also got 2 boxes so a bit under 8 square meter for both.
Got the brands and thicknesses I did due to 2 reasons, 1: I can build thin layers where needed and double up on both layers where I can fit it if I want no problem, second reason is cost.. I simply got Silent Coat at 1/4 of original price here, the STP Splen 04 I got at 1/2 the cost + what they had in store to send out really fast which was good cause order it yesterday and picked up today so?

We will see, I don't have a decent sound level/frequency meter so cannot check and phone apps are notoriously difficult, but can provide an idea if I improved at least, apart form my ears that is. 1 app say car can reach 70 or 70+dB, 3 other apps I used all claim around 81dB when urban/extra urban driving from 40 to 70km/h.
That is insanity for a car imho, maybe I just have high demands I don't know but time aside the cost of this if turn out well will be well worth it imho. I will not get a full picture now cause floor is the plan, doors and boot will come later, just hope I do not have to do the firewall cause I have no place where I can leave the car inside without a dash and it is a lot of work to clean out that to to reach sheet metal but it would obviously improve the result a lot!
I hope KIA too follow fire classifications to a T and already treated that area better the rest cause under the stock floor mat it looks like a nightmare in terms of resonance, I peaked a bit.

Owners in Australia and maybe UK too are luckier in this aspect than us northerners rolling on studded wintertime, those things did worsen it a lot more I regret picking studded tires, of course the few days we do have flash freezing road 4-5 in the mornign on the way to work I will be happy.
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