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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not even taken delivery of my Sedona yet, and I'm reading more and more about problems with these MPV's.
Must say it is a bit worrying.
The garage (not kia) I'm buying it from are giving a 3 month warranty, but are offering a Lifetime warranty for £499 that covers any non wearable item for the length of time I own it.

Do you think I would be wise to take it?

Secondly,

We are taking it to South Spain (1500 miles) in 6 weeks for a 2 week hol, is there anything I should check before we go that the garage might have missed? ie these heater pipes that corrode.
I know they should spot anything, but they dont specialise in kia's so maybe arent aware...

Its only done 35000m with a full history (including cambelt change) so it should be ok.
 

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First of all, read on any vehicle dedicated forums you will find that all vehicles suffer with complaints. I'll bet that before you came on this site you had never heard of any complaints against the Sedona. Every vehicle produced has had a Friday afternoon vehicle sold on the forecourt, if your unlucky to buy one of these new your covered with warranty. If you buy second hand you get three months warranty, if it's full of faults the dealer has an obligation to put you right.As regards to the rear heater pipes, yes they are prone to corrosion, you will need to remove the spare wheel to check the pipes. I'm afraid that you will need to be tough on these steel pipes, chip away the rust with a chisel, be prepared to replace the pipes! This is the only way you can minimise problems with the pipes. If need be you can cut the steel heater pipes at any point and use one of the rubber pipes to join the two together.
 

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I have 2 Sedona's, 2003 and 2006 model...i am a Kia convert having a Sorento as well.
The only prob i have had other than normal servicing and changing the oils/filters every 5K[OLD FASHIONED DIESEL MECH] is that of the front arb links which i had replaced last week.

The electric motors in the doors give concerns, i have bought 2 spare door handle motors for back up.

I would avail of the warranty, we can not get after market warranties in Ire;lnd, if we could i would buy the extended warranty



Taff
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
is it just the rear of these pipes that corrode?
re the warranty, do you think I should take it out? is £499 a good price for a lifetime cover?
obviously I have to have it maintained to manufac. spec at any VAT garage, but will do anyway.
 

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Hi, yes, when you have a water leak the engine temperature goes up (sometimes, because the temp sender unit needs hot water to work), if this is ignored ie continuous use of the engine, the engine will be 'cooked', thus leading to head and gasket problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so these leaking pipes are the reason why so many have had head gasket and sometimes wrecked engines? not also some other reason (like the rover k series engine fault)
as long as I keep a regular check on the pipes I need not worry?

Do the pipes just fail without warning, or do they just leak a little for a while gradually getting worse?

If this is the case I'm not too fussed about it, as long as I know what to keep an eye on. I once had a MG ZR and know they are prone to HGF, but that was ok, cause I knew to keep an eye on the water level. Its the stuff you dont know about that bites your arse
 

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The Rover K9 engine was the worst engine ever built! You only had to look at it with crossed eyes and it would blow a gasket and warp the head until both ends met!!!The rear pipes on the Sedona do corrode, at what pace? depends, but the last winter roads with all the excess salt put paid to mine 4 months later. (they did have surface rust before the winter).
Because I service our vehicles myself I keep an eager eye out. I noticed that they had corroded a lot, so decided to remove the spare and began chipping away at the rust, then it began to leak. It would have eventually been a gradual loss of coolant, how much is anybody's guess. If in doubt CHANGE THEM'
 

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Hi, I had to cut back to just the back end of the derv tank, constructed copper 15mm pipes to a similar route as the originals. Because the original steel pipes are 17mm outside dia I had to solder a ready soldered straight joint to each of the four ends, the solder bulge enables a tight fit onto the rubber pipes. I joined the new pipes to the old ones with the rubber pipe cut offs, at the rear heater ends. I ensured that the copper pipes that I constructed reached further towards the rear heater, giving me 2X four inch hose to make joints. A word of warning, whichever route you take make sure you have clearance from the spare wheel and carrier.
 

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m623d said:
Not even taken delivery of my Sedona yet, and I'm reading more and more about problems with these MPV's.
Must say it is a bit worrying.
The garage (not kia) I'm buying it from are giving a 3 month warranty, but are offering a Lifetime warranty for £499 that covers any non wearable item for the length of time I own it.

Do you think I would be wise to take it?

Secondly,

We are taking it to South Spain (1500 miles) in 6 weeks for a 2 week hol, is there anything I should check before we go that the garage might have missed? ie these heater pipes that corrode.
I know they should spot anything, but they dont specialise in kia's so maybe arent aware...

Its only done 35000m with a full history (including cambelt change) so it should be ok.
I wouldn't worry - yes there are horror stories on this forum - that is the nature of the forum that people with problems come on here to hopefully solve their problem - I'm sure there are thousands of Sedona owners who are perfectly happy with their motors, but they do not come on the forum and say so. I presumeyou have had a test drive and were happy with the condition and performance before you bought it. It sounds as though it has been looked after with the full service history and cambelt change -so it should be ok.If there are any problems you should find them during the three month warranty period and get them sorted. As far as the additional warranty is concerned - it depends how handy you are yourself as far as carrying out your own repairs - personally I would bank the money and use it for repairs as necessary - but thats my opinion. Make sure you join a good recovery service with Euro cover if your going abroad.All in all the majority of Sedona owners are happy with their motors which are well made and generally reliable. I'm pretty confident you will be happy with it and enjoy owning and driving it.
 

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Mininut, just wanted to check how you did thesteel replacement with copper. If you have copper in contact with steel, if it gets wet, it will make an electrochemical cell and corrode the steel very rapidly. Did you get rid of the steel parts altogether, or put rubber between the steel and the copper?
 

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Hi M4 Trundler, I do apologise if I didn't explain clearly. Here is what I did - I made sure that the copper pipes were long enough (following the original steel pipes path) to cross over the o s r chassis thus enabling me to cut about 4" o rubber piping that hang down from the rear heater. I used these 4" pipes to join the copper and steel pipes. The copper pipes do not come into contact with any type of steel. Where the copper pipes are mounted I split an old pipe to isolate any contact. Yes the copper pipe would eventually corrode the steel pipes, but not before the elements have done their job.To explain further, I soldered - ready soldered straight coupler to the end of the pipes, the ring solder expanded the jointing ends to about 17mm+, thus ensuring a tight fit. Incidently, re-using the spring clips, they fit securely over the raised portion created by the ring solder, it's a very good fit.
I would take photos and post them here but have failed to post photos previously.
I could email photos to anyone if needed though.
 

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From most replies it would appear that most of you have problems with them leaking at the rear. I've never seen this as the leaks here are always where the support brackets for the pipe bolt to the body. i was going to change mine for 16mm rubber, got the pipe but when I looked from underneath at the close proximity to the exhaust & the fact that i would have to go from one side of the chassis rail to the other ( This would probably give me problems at the next MOt here in spain ) I decided to re-do in steel.
I used 16mm thick wall tube ( 2mm wall) & run two pipes from just in front of the 1st clamp underneath to just past the chassis rail where the spare is mounted. At this end I used a bender to offset them to clear the spare & continued the rest in rubber.Same at the front using 'P' lips with rubber lining to support everything on the original mounting points. The pipe was primered & painted before being installed.
 
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