Hi, Still having problems with brakes on my 2006 Sedona (new shape) with the brakes binding. Murphwiz told me there was a problem with the servo on early models, and the actuating rod in the servo needs adjusting to allow a bit more free play in the brake pedal. Done a bit of ferreting around and managed to get a copy of the Kia directive about this and the adjustment needed is 1 - 2 mm (shortening I presume)Through a friend of a friend who is a Kia dealer salesman, he has spoken to the service department and the adjustment can be done by removing the master cylinder (2 nuts), no need to disconnect brake pipes, and adjusting the rod in the servo. What I can't find out is how to adjust it - is there a slot in the end of the rod - or an allen socket, that can be turned to adjust it. I have a CD manual that shows a special tool but it looks more like a depth gauge to measure the adjustment as opposed to doing the adjustment - any ideas please.
Binding brakes - 2006 Sedona Ts
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Hi, Just to update you on this - I adjusted the servo pushrod a couple of days ago - easy to do - but as usual on Kias awkward to get at - impossible to measure the gap between the pushrod end and the master cylinder - so I measured the length of exposed thread on the pushrodusing a digital vernier and shortened it by 1 mm - put it all back together and hey presto its cured the problem - in fact its like driving a different vehicle, with fuel consumption improving no end and it handles much better all round. There is a slight more play on the brake pedal but nothing that would affect the MOT, etc.
I have obviously been driving around with the brakes binding - probably since I bought it 2+ years ago - but now they are running a lot cooler and at an even temperature all round.
This problem affects some of the first new shape Sedonas (2006) but a Kia mechanic has told me that they have had some up to 2008 with brakes binding and in need of this mod.
I have a copy of the Bulletin if anyone needs it and would be happy to help anyone with the same problem. ( I feel this may be responsible for a lot of members getting poor comsumption figures, without noticing the brakes dragging)
Thanks everyone for their hel - in particular Murphywiz - who made me aware of the Kia bulletin in the first place.
I have obviously been driving around with the brakes binding - probably since I bought it 2+ years ago - but now they are running a lot cooler and at an even temperature all round.
This problem affects some of the first new shape Sedonas (2006) but a Kia mechanic has told me that they have had some up to 2008 with brakes binding and in need of this mod.
I have a copy of the Bulletin if anyone needs it and would be happy to help anyone with the same problem. ( I feel this may be responsible for a lot of members getting poor comsumption figures, without noticing the brakes dragging)
Thanks everyone for their hel - in particular Murphywiz - who made me aware of the Kia bulletin in the first place.
Just bought new Brake pads all round for my 56 plate Sedona. Fitted the front set, road test, then came home to find the brakes binding big time on the near side front.
With ref to the push rod adjustment, could this be done inside the car, removing the clevis pin off the brake pedal, one turn (roughly 1mm) and re fit?
In all the years working on vehicles (car & Commercial) this is the first time iv'e come across this type of problem.
With ref to the push rod adjustment, could this be done inside the car, removing the clevis pin off the brake pedal, one turn (roughly 1mm) and re fit?
In all the years working on vehicles (car & Commercial) this is the first time iv'e come across this type of problem.
Hi LOZ,
I take it you have the new shape Sedona! - No there is no way to do the adjustment inside the car - I tried this but there is nothing to adjust at the pedal / pivot end. I know what you mean with a lot of cars there is usually some adjustment consisting of a length of threaded rod and a couple of locknuts that allows you to adjust the free play in the brake pedal - but not on this model. I had made my mind up it was the caliper and was about to replace it - but was having difficulty getting a replacement - so I thought I would go for the adjustment. The main problem is the restricted space - but it was quite straight forward - fortunatley I managed to get hold of the Kia bulletin sent out to dealers that tells you how to do it - basically remove the master cylinder from the servo and this exposes the pushrod which has a 7mm domed nut on the end, grip the pushrod with some grips and turn the nut clockwise to shorten the rod - only a small amount - I found it impossible to measure the clearance (Kia have a special gauge to do this) - so I just reduced the exposed thread length by 1mm. and put it all back together.This has cured the problem completely - just done a 200+ mile journey and its like driving a different car!
The good news is(and Kia say this in the bulletin) -you do not have to disconect the hydraulic pipes from the master cylinder - just undo the two nuts and pull it away from the servo(gently and wedge it out the way.
As far as a recall is concerned - Kia did not recall them but sent out this bulletin to all dealers that should the car be bought in for any sort of brake work the mod should be carried out. I spoke to my dealer, where I bought the car from originally and who hadskimmed the discsbecause they had warped while under warrenty and they said the mod had not been done and they weren't to interested in doing it now as it was out of warrenty.
The other thing to consider is that as you have put new pads the caliper could be using a new prt of the caliper cylinder that may be a bit tight and causing thebrakes to bind - which could mean a new caliper. Another thing to try is the mechanic who got me the bulletin said thatif the front o/side caliper is binding the rearn/side caliper will also be running hot!
Sorry to go on but if I were you I would try the push rod adjustment first - you'll kick yourself if you replace the caliper and it is just the same after.
Hope all this helps - I can send you a copy of the bulletin if you want it(not sure how I'll do it)- but unfortunatley its a fax copy of a photocopy and the diagrams are not too clear.
Cheers
Alan
I take it you have the new shape Sedona! - No there is no way to do the adjustment inside the car - I tried this but there is nothing to adjust at the pedal / pivot end. I know what you mean with a lot of cars there is usually some adjustment consisting of a length of threaded rod and a couple of locknuts that allows you to adjust the free play in the brake pedal - but not on this model. I had made my mind up it was the caliper and was about to replace it - but was having difficulty getting a replacement - so I thought I would go for the adjustment. The main problem is the restricted space - but it was quite straight forward - fortunatley I managed to get hold of the Kia bulletin sent out to dealers that tells you how to do it - basically remove the master cylinder from the servo and this exposes the pushrod which has a 7mm domed nut on the end, grip the pushrod with some grips and turn the nut clockwise to shorten the rod - only a small amount - I found it impossible to measure the clearance (Kia have a special gauge to do this) - so I just reduced the exposed thread length by 1mm. and put it all back together.This has cured the problem completely - just done a 200+ mile journey and its like driving a different car!
The good news is(and Kia say this in the bulletin) -you do not have to disconect the hydraulic pipes from the master cylinder - just undo the two nuts and pull it away from the servo(gently and wedge it out the way.
As far as a recall is concerned - Kia did not recall them but sent out this bulletin to all dealers that should the car be bought in for any sort of brake work the mod should be carried out. I spoke to my dealer, where I bought the car from originally and who hadskimmed the discsbecause they had warped while under warrenty and they said the mod had not been done and they weren't to interested in doing it now as it was out of warrenty.
The other thing to consider is that as you have put new pads the caliper could be using a new prt of the caliper cylinder that may be a bit tight and causing thebrakes to bind - which could mean a new caliper. Another thing to try is the mechanic who got me the bulletin said thatif the front o/side caliper is binding the rearn/side caliper will also be running hot!
Sorry to go on but if I were you I would try the push rod adjustment first - you'll kick yourself if you replace the caliper and it is just the same after.
Hope all this helps - I can send you a copy of the bulletin if you want it(not sure how I'll do it)- but unfortunatley its a fax copy of a photocopy and the diagrams are not too clear.
Cheers
Alan
Thanks for the info.
I replaced the rear first, i found the near side rear had gone big time. The acoustic waning device they use (bit of metal) had broken off long before the pads had got to the point of metal on metal. So when i noticed the sound it was metal on metal.
Going back to the push rod adjustment. I note the pedal side of the rod is threaded. If i take the clevis pin out and release the rod pedal side, i was wondering if i could simply turn the rod inside the clamp that goes onto the pedal, then replace clevis pin e.t.c.
I replaced the rear first, i found the near side rear had gone big time. The acoustic waning device they use (bit of metal) had broken off long before the pads had got to the point of metal on metal. So when i noticed the sound it was metal on metal.
Going back to the push rod adjustment. I note the pedal side of the rod is threaded. If i take the clevis pin out and release the rod pedal side, i was wondering if i could simply turn the rod inside the clamp that goes onto the pedal, then replace clevis pin e.t.c.
alcutler said:
Could you scan and emal it to me? it would be very helpfull. I used to be a tech for renault truck, so not worried about getting involved. It just seemed a simpler fix turning the threaded rod pedal side. However, I will try it tomorrow.
After being plagued with problem on this car, it all seemed to be going so well until now. Then it just reminded me of the 68 visits to KIA workshopunder warranty. Yes 68 visits you did read correct!
Well well well well well. How about that? 1378 miles since Saturday in the old Sedona (56 plate new shape Auto) MPG has gone up from 27 - 29 mpg to 34 MPG with roof box - A/C on I shall report back when i've done a tank or two without roof box. Brakes binding has been the route of most problems. YAY ! i'm a very happy chap. Many thanks to AL and this forum.
Just a shamemy local KIA dealercouldn't help, for the last 4 yearsover thisproblem
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Edited by: LOZ
Just a shamemy local KIA dealercouldn't help, for the last 4 yearsover thisproblem
Edited by: LOZ
Great news Loz - well done - mine was like driving a different car - better acceleration,handling,braking and consumption - and I've noticed the front discs are now nice and shiny instead of that blued look they had before - As you say pity dealers couldn't sort out a relatively simple job - perhaps the forum would benefit from a 'Dealers FeedbackPage' where owners could give details of experiences they have had - whether good or bad, which would help owners choose which garage to go to to get repairs done and also 'name and shame' the u/sones!
Glad to hear its ok now - have a safe journey
Glad to hear its ok now - have a safe journey
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192 Posts
you couldnt do that on here al or we would spend most of our time moaning about kia dealers .
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Yea probably right - but it might encourage one or two of them to do the job properly! - the impression I get from my local dealer - is that they are happy to sell you a car, but don't stock as much as an oil filter in spare parts and don't particularily want to know when you have a problem. Now if I had known this when I bought the car - I would probably have gone somewhere else. (partly my fault I know - I should have done a bit more research - but you don't do you) So if there was a 'sticky' just dedicated to owners experiences with their dealers ( or any other garage) they could post them and make others aware and help them making a decision on who to approach for work to be carried out.
Don't get me wrong I am not saying all dealers are u/s - I am sure there are some that are doing great jobs and provide excellent service - so let us now who they are,
Cheers
Don't get me wrong I am not saying all dealers are u/s - I am sure there are some that are doing great jobs and provide excellent service - so let us now who they are,
Cheers
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8 Posts
Hello
Please could you also send me a copy of the directive from Kia to [email protected] as I am also having the same problems and my dealer is quoting me over three grand for a new master cylinder and four new calipers!
Thansk in anticipation
Andy
Please could you also send me a copy of the directive from Kia to [email protected] as I am also having the same problems and my dealer is quoting me over three grand for a new master cylinder and four new calipers!
Thansk in anticipation
Andy
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192 Posts
shocking you can get calipers from a good motor factors if you have a good search bud, they arnt kia ones they are after market but they do the job and you wont pay through the nose for them ,do you need 4 calipers strange to need 4 at once .
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Hi Andy, I've sent the bulletin to the email address you gave - the chances of all four calipers going at the same time is remote and I would think if the master cylinder is defective it would only affect 1 front and one rear wheel - I would certainly try the servo adjustment before you do anything drastic - its a bit fiddly but easy enough to do - as I say if I can help at all get back to me,
Alan
Alan
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192 Posts
me too.
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I have got the car booked into the garage next week for them to replace the master cylinder. Hopefully this will sort out the problem and also the terrible vibration that I get on the car that occurs over 65 mph.
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