i suspect the lead is after market, have you tried pulling the fuse to see if the small drain goes ? i would also give the car more time to shut down measure after 20 min

 

Thanks. The red lead plug has two fuses, the original 10A and a 3A. I will try disconnecting the red lead and with and without both the fuses.

 

Hi & Welcome
How long have you owned the car?

Piggy back fuse holder, definitely not standard fitment. Does car have a dash cam or any other 3rd party additions?

If not just pull it off. Fuse box lid will tell you exactly what that 10A fuse is in relation to, if it says spare, then it is safe to pull 10A out. If not then you need to leave in place or something will not work.

 

Thanks. I have actually had the car for two years. I replaced the battery this time last year but this winter the problem is worse. Or I have killed the replacement battery. There are no 3rd party extras fitted.
The red lead is fitted in place of fuse 14 (DRL) BCM/TACM which is daytime running lights (10A).

 

If its fitted correctly its in addition to the original fuse (piggy back) as stated above pull the piggy back connector out making sure the original 10amp fuse is left in place & see what happens, if the piggy back fuse is 3amp its probably for a dashcam.😎

 

Thanks. I will do the quiescent current test again with red lead disconnected and original 10A fuse back in place. See where that gets me.

 

Update. I removed the "Piggy back fuse holder" and replaced the 10A fuse. The current draw immediately after locking the car (but bonnet open: is there a sensor for that?) has fallen to 124mA. After 30mins the current draw is only 3 or 4mA. This reading seems valid as upon unlocking with the remote key fob, current draw rises to ~700mA, drops to about 350mA and then back down to around 120mA.
So, could be fixed? I have reconnected the battery and will check the next time the car is left unused for 3/4 days.
As to what the previously fitted accessory was, I don't know. But the wiring was very neat. The best photo I could get shows the red wire going to this.

 

Update. I removed the "Piggy back fuse holder" and replaced the 10A fuse. The current draw immediately after locking the car (but bonnet open: is there a sensor for that?) has fallen to 124mA. After 30mins the current draw is only 3 or 4mA. This reading seems valid as upon unlocking with the remote key fob, current draw rises to ~700mA, drops to about 350mA and then back down to around 120mA.
So, could be fixed? I have reconnected the battery and will check the next time the car is left unused for 3/4 days.
As to what the previously fitted accessory was, I don't know. But the wiring was very neat. The best photo I could get shows the red wire going to this.

Kia electrics stay live for around 5 mins after car is closed & locked.
So if you can clip leads to battery, shut bonnet & lock car, it should go to nothing (or near enough) after a while.

You can sometimes hear a slight whistle/hum while on & them a click & silence when it shuts down.

 

NEXTBASE dash cam?

 

Power supply 12-24v to 5v.

 

Yes. Specifically, a NEXTBASE DASH CAM HARDWIRE KIT DA206AHW but given that it was connected to fuse 14 which is afaik daytime running lights, why on earth would it be drawing current when the car is parked? Very strange.
As I said above, I will wait and see. Just keeping this thread updated in case it helps anyone else in future.

 

Thanks for the info.