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Discussion Starter #1
I am stripping down checking and cleaning the air intake side of my engine.
1 I’ve found oil deposits throughout these pipes, is this a concern? What causes this?

2 just before the intake manifold there is a sensor which I’m cleaning, how does it function? Can I test it?

3 just after this sensor going toward inlet manifold is a vent/gate that I’m guessing is solonoid controlled.
Can I test this for function?

thanks guys
 

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Don;t know the particular model but...

1, Bound to be a bit oily in there - it's probably coming from the crankcase breather. Does it have a turbo? More oily after the turbo?

2) That's either the MAP sensor or the MAFsensor (sometimes these also have a temperature sensor)

3) er.....that's the throttle innit? (controlled by the ECU in response to accelerator pedal position)

If any sensors are malfunctioning the ECU will flag a fault and the EML light will come on. Is the car driving normally?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Turn up it’s stuck in limp mode. Slight misfire so changed injectors Had no eml on. Then as I was investigating I had an eml come on turbo underboost. So have checked actuator on the turbo all good. Checked tested and cleaned egr valve and solinoid all good.
Checked vnt function.
Turbo has no play and spins freely.
Checking through air intake now and now worked out that it’s the throttle housing and sensor I was looking at. All I can guess at now is Either faulty map, faulty throttle adjuster/sensor or faulty sensor on throttle pedal.
Only a light coating of oil and I’ve cleaned that all out.
Wasn’t too worried as know it’s a common thing.
The turbo didn’t kick in at all and I was stuck at 2500 rpm and 3rd with foot right down. No leaks on head gasket no coolant or oil loss.

just wonder if I’m going in right direction as my first Kia and first Diesel engine I’ve worked on.
Paid peanuts for it during lockdown to work through issues
 

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Turbo hose leaks can cause the symptoms you describe.

MAP or TPS or APS sensors should flag specific error codes unless they are only a bit flaky and are mis-reading but this is rare. Crud on MAP has also been seen because it causes the MAP to under report..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’ve checked all hoses to and from turbo. No cracks, I can find or leaks none of the pipes appear weak or collapsed.
So turned my focus onto air intake side which is where I’m at.
I’ve changed maf checked no leaks on manifolds intake and exhaust.
As I mentioned only codes I had was po299 turbo underboost so ??? Almost getting to a point of changing all hoses and clamps just to be sure!!!
 

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Check for oil in the intercooler which will restrict boost air coming through.... the boost pressure sensor is located after the intercooler and before the throttle position sensor...very visible looking down just behind the rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kiasport2010 I’ve checked cleaned and tested both throttle sensor and pedal position sensor also throttle position switch. All seem good.

I may as well clean inter cooler as a matter of peace of mind.
I am using a back pressure tester over the weekend and hope to find the cause of my boost loss.
I’m so grateful for all of you on here for your ideas, advice And shared knowledge.
I feel I am very close now to getting her running fine and already from how the engine ran before I had it she’s great but as I’ve said I bought her as a project and learning experience and with all your help it’s coming good.
Loving doing it too
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update
So I’ve broken down the pipes and hoses to the Intercoolers to clean any oil out. Seems just a light covering inside them.

however the elbow nearest the bottom of the Intercoolers unit was almost full of a water, chemical and oil liquid.
And so therefore the bottom of Intercoolers will have about 10-15 cm of this in the bottom.
I’ve used an oil pump to extract a lot of it prior to removing and cleaning Intercoolers.

it looks like prior owner has poured some cleaner( maybe gunk)
In via bottom or top hose and then flushed with water however they have left a load Diluted in the bottom Of the unit. This coupled with a poor seal on bottom elbow hose to unit I feel may be underboost cause.
So will empty clean and check.
Replace hose and clamps and run a pressure test, let you know!!!!
Strange things you find eh?
 

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Update
So I’ve broken down the pipes and hoses to the Intercoolers to clean any oil out. Seems just a light covering inside them.

however the elbow nearest the bottom of the Intercoolers unit was almost full of a water, chemical and oil liquid.
And so therefore the bottom of Intercoolers will have about 10-15 cm of this in the bottom.
I’ve used an oil pump to extract a lot of it prior to removing and cleaning Intercoolers.

it looks like prior owner has poured some cleaner( maybe gunk)
In via bottom or top hose and then flushed with water however they have left a load Diluted in the bottom Of the unit. This coupled with a poor seal on bottom elbow hose to unit I feel may be underboost cause.
So will empty clean and check.
Replace hose and clamps and run a pressure test, let you know!!!!
Strange things you find eh?
There are several 'instructional' videos on Youtube showing people using oven cleaner to clean faulty EGR valves. You spray oven cleaner through the air intake, run the engine, then flush it with water. Maybe this is what has been done to yours, but I hope not as I'd hate to think what damage it could do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Me to Christog
Anyway got home tonight after work and I’ve used a hand oil pump to remove the liquid.
It was a sort of yellow colour and to be honest smelt just like the Mrs elbow grease kitchen cleaner with a little black oil mixed in.
I’ve run some paraffin through the Intercooler and let it sit for 15 mins then drained it and left it to dry out/ evaporate.
In the morning I will reattach everything and boost leak test it all. After that I hope it runs sweet but will keep you all upto date.
Cheers all
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update.
So I’ve checked boost pressure system this morning and it leaks on the elbow before and after intercooler.
Won’t even hold 5psi so new elbows and clamps ordered.
Got to get bumper off to access the bottom hose yaaaay.
Well worth it tho
 

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Discussion Starter #13
UPDATE
So elbow on intercooler changed , intercooler flushed with kerosine and new clamps throughout system. Boost tested and no leaks.
Started up and finally got revs above 2500.
However I don’t have as much acceleration as I feel I should.
Blue smoke from exhaust which I believe is oil burning and perhaps unturned fuel?
No oil on driveway. Engine cleaned and no new leaking evident?
So I’m going to flush engine. Change oil and filter and see what that does.
There is a slight ticking from the drivers side of the engine.
Any suggestions guys?
 

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Take it for a good run to get nice and hot. Should clean out the remaining crud. That may have got through to the rest of the exhaust.
AKA. Italian tune up :)
 

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Ticking could be air con pump if your air con is on. The pump is only engaged through an electromagnet located at the air con pump when air con switched on at you dash.
Also on drivers side are the belts.....not sure if you serviced these? The idler pulley on my serpentine belt isn't 100%. They do start to wear over time.
 

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Ticking could be air con pump if your air con is on. The pump is only engaged through an electromagnet located at the air con pump when air con switched on at you dash.
Also on drivers side are the belts.....not sure if you serviced these? The idler pulley on my serpentine belt isn't 100%. They do start to wear over time.
What symptoms are you getting with the idler pulley? I'm wondering if mine is going as I get a rev dependant whine from that side of the engine from time to time, but I haven't had the belt off yet to play with it.
 

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I had a rev dependent rattle very audible on startup, I replaced the belt & in doing so I found the idler to be stiff when trying to turn it by hand, the tensioner wasn't great either. WD40 applied to provide a stay pending install of new new idler and tensioner. The new belt got rid of the rattle and on removal the belt had some visible cracks on it.
 

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P.S> Access is a problem for replacing the belt, idler & tensioner. The drivers wheels comes off and the plastic panel behind wheel comes off (three 10 mm bolts). I only replaced Belt and will leave the Idler & tension for my mechanic when doing T Belt as the top engine mount comes off to allow engine drop down to gain free access. Correct equipment needed for this job. If replacing the serpentine belt i released the tensioner using a ring spanner and clamped it in the loose position using cable ties. I then routed the new belt and left the crank last to get the belt around. I got belt approx 50% onto crank and then turned ignition momentarily to get belt on all the way....an old trick that keeps on giving..!!
Hope this is of some help.
 

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Very helpful thank you. I need to have a play with the pulleys and see which if any are suspect. I've had a mechanic say he is 100% certain it's the idler pulley whining, but the Kia garage said it would be an aftermarket oil filter making the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok guys so turbo running an quiet. However still a bit of lag and went for a good run and eml flashed. Scanned and still saying underboost.
There are no leaks on pipes/ hoses from turbo outlet through to intake manifold.
Pressure tested.
However upon thinking about it I noted that the j pipe that connected to turbo outlet has no clamp on it where it joins onto turbo. This is pressurised at its max I’d assume??
So needs a clamp on it??
If that is correct let me know please.
So then am I also correct in thinking if I then cap off the ambient air
 
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