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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I live in France and have had a Sportage for a couple of years. My oil pressure light started to flicker, stayed on but then behaved as normal once I stopped and started again. I bought a new switch which was cheap and seemed the first thing to check or eliminate and my local garage was happy to fit it. They have always been reliable. Picked it up today and the owner had been in touch with Kia to find the location of the switch and discovered it was very inaccessible and between the engine and transmission, plus he didn't think it was necessary. He checked the oil pressure and said the pump was OK and his advice was to leave it unless it came on again and stayed on. I am hoping it's just one of those one-offs that occur with fairly modern cars. It has not come on again during the relatively short journeys I have made. Any ideas? The oil level is OK and it was last serviced with good quality expensive oil which won't need changing for several months.
 

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Hi, A few questions that will help.

What year is car?
What mileage?
Petrol or diesel?
Has timing belt been changed?
If diesel do you predominantly do short journeys or long journeys or combination of both.
Do you have a code reader & if so did car show any error codes recently or in the past.
You mentioned using expensive oil... Do you have any other detail on this?

Thanks
 

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There are two oil related switches which illuminate similar but slightly different symbols. One indicates low oil pressure and low oil pressure is seriously bad news for the engine. The other possibility is the oil level switch which warns of low oil level and although this should not be ignored it is not so immediately dangerous to the engine. The symbols are similar and in the same place so can you recall what exactly was displaying? (IIRC the level waening is the same as the pressure warning but also has wavy lines underneath it)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, A few questions that will help.

What year is car?
What mileage?
Petrol or diesel?
Has timing belt been changed?
If diesel do you predominantly do short journeys or long journeys or combination of both.
Do you have a code reader & if so did car show any error codes recently or in the past.
You mentioned using expensive oil... Do you have any other detail on this?

Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to reply. It's 2009, Diesel, c105,000 miles, cambelt changed (stamped in service book by local garage about 70 odd thousand miles), purchased two years ago at 78,000 miles. Oil changed in November 2019, obtained from local Citroen garage, about 20 euros per litre, recommended by them. Only trouble was shortly after purchase, the EGR valve blocked. Cleaned out and only use good quality diesel now. Journeys mostly short at the moment but last summer we drove to Denmark and back. I've tried to look after it and it has done well. No diagnostic lately so unaware of errors.
 

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When you had the problem I assume you dipped the oil level. If you found the oil level to be above the middle mark heading towards the upper level mark it's possible what you have is unburned diesel ( due to incomplete dpf regenerations) in your oil. If this is the case as turnup pointed out you may have has the oil level warning light. If you changed the oil since you are sorted but long term a good run to get engine up to temperature to allow a complete regeneration is desirable. What would be good to do next time you are at mechanics is ask them to read the % restriction in the dog.
This is all presumptuous of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are two oil related switches which illuminate similar but slightly different symbols. One indicates low oil pressure and low oil pressure is seriously bad news for the engine. The other possibility is the oil level switch which warns of low oil level and although this should not be ignored it is not so immediately dangerous to the engine. The symbols are similar and in the same place so can you recall what exactly was displaying? (IIRC the level waening is the same as the pressure warning but also has wavy lines underneath it)
It was the oil warning light in the bottom left that goes off after ignition, ie the one that means big trouble if you drive on it and is probably too late anyway. Fortunately when it first happened, I stopped and when I started again it went off, as it should do. Then it came on again and flickered. I stopped and it went off. I got it seen to as soon as possible, providing a new switch in case that was the problem. In most cars these are easy to find and replace but not this model. It was the kind of experience I would associate with a loose connection or faulty terminal in other walks of life as I am not a mechanic! It has behaved itself today and I have had the oil pressure checked. Our local mechanic is experienced and well repected (very important in France!) I don't think he would have told me to keep driving on it if there was a chance of a serious problem. He could have stripped everything out, replaced it and charged me a fortune for labour but in the end didn't charge a penny even though he had been on to Kia and downloaded a diagram to show where it was. Unfortunately I'm still curious, and a bit nervous!
 

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The usual way of testing oil pressure is to remove the oil pressure switch and screw in an oil pressure guage so you can see what the pressure actually is. then compare with manufacturers spec, you can also see if it is stable or is it fluctuating which could indicate a pump issue. did the mechanic say what readings he got.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Many thanks for the helpful suggestions. I took it for a run of about 40 miles in case the dpf needed some exercise and it behaved perfectly well. On the latter part of the journey on the way home it came on a couple of times and went off for no particular reason, ie not when I was accelerating or doing a particular speed. Approaching home it came on and stayed on but went off each time I applied the brakes and stopped, only to resume later. I gave the car a ten minute break, turned it on, drove round the block and it performed perfectly. Does this sound like anything in particular, loose wire, sticky switch, pump expiring? Would it be worth putting it on a diagnostic computer?

Thanks again,

Alan.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the suggestion. I just rang a friend who runs a garage that did my last oil change and he had a similar problem with a Sportage some time ago so I have booked it in. Will take a while but I will do a progress report in case it's a fault that needs highlighting for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just for the record, I think we have found the cause which could be of use to others in the future. Our mechanic took off the sump and found the strainer completely clogged. He changed the oil about seven months ago but had no reason to look further. He reckons the deposits have been building up for some time and it's the second time he has encountered the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've only seen a photo and it looks like the kind of carbon material that sometimes falls down the flue of our log burner. He told me there were no metal particles but that it was just a gradual build-up over a period. This was the second Sportage where he had seen the same thing happen. The other one was a more recent model than mine and the owner had continued to drive it despite the light coming on and did serious damage to the turbo apparently. Maybe the grill on the strainer is finer than others which must be a good thing as long as it is inspected from time to time. Each time the light came on, I tried to stop for a while if safe to do so and the car recovered. I have to hope that there isn't any permanent damage.

Hope this story helps to inform any future instances and saves possible stress and damage.
 

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Hi, Check your injector seals as a leak can cause carbon build up in the oil being as they are enclosed in the rocker cover.
 

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Can it be an option for those who suspect a clogged strainer, to fill some diesel or WD40 type dispersant in thru the drain plug, let it sit a while, then drain it out?

Followed by an oil change interval of just 30 miles or so
 

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you can get engine flushing oil which dissolves carbon, however this can effect seals etc that are being held together with carbon it may make issues worse.
 

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Would not recommend any form of flushing - it will lift some of the grot in the strainer and circulate it elsewhere. The strainer is there to trap grot so it doesn't seem to be a good idea to release it again.. Is sump removal and mechanical cleaning so hard anyway? Dunno about your particular vehicle but usually the sump can be removed without removing a lot of other bits - I might be wrong on this,
 

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If the "flushing" fluid was filled in thru the drain plug, let sit a while, without starting the engine, then drained out it would not circulate and effect any seals other than the oil pan sealing.
A few ml. will remain, sure. However an extra oil change after just a few miles should sølv that.

Just thought this could be an option in cases where it is not easy to remove the sump.
 

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Just pouring fluid in and later draining it out will not remove much of the crud in there - it needs to be agitated or the process repeated many times.
 
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