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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi There,

I have a 2008 2.0 crdi and have noticed recently that when I put my foot down the car hesitates to accelerate but once it starts accelerating then it pulls hard, just as hard as it ever has.

it seems to only happen if I take my foot off the throttle and then plant it so its in WOT, if I am already accelerating a little and then plant it then it will pull well but I take my foot off the throttle and then plant it then it will hessitate for a moment before starting to pull, almost feels like turbo lag but can happen anywhere in the rev range. Its more obvious after a gear change when accelerating hard. in my head it feels like the car is taking its time to build boost again before pulling.

Just to add some more to this just recently a few times I have been accelerating hard and between 2.5k to 3k it has gone dead for a moment, almost like the turbo has stopped all together, but then it will pick it back up again and continue to pull.

I have done some research around VNT - possibly sticky vanes?
Or maybe a boost leak?
Or has the turbo just gone now?

I have cleaned the EGR valve and also the boost sensor on the top of the intercooler to rule them out.

Any help would be appreciated, especially people with similar problems on a 2.0 crdi.

Thanks,
 

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Hi,
When you took the EGR valve off I assume you checked and cleaned the exhaust manifold as mine was totally full.
Page 2 on this section (pulsing power)
Worth checking the bottom intercooler clamp as mine rusted away the other year and leaked which you could here with window down, also clean the mass air flow sensor as found to be very dirty.
Is the air filter clean?, it made a difference when I was tracing my fault as changed to a k & N and before the fault was 2500 and after changing started at 1800rpm.
Have you a obd reader? I put lots of readings before & after fault found which you can compare. If you need anymore readings I can always check mine again.
Did you check EGR works? as putting a new one on for £50 transformed my car.
Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,
When you took the EGR valve off I assume you checked and cleaned the exhaust manifold as mine was totally full.
Page 2 on this section (pulsing power)
Worth checking the bottom intercooler clamp as mine rusted away the other year and leaked which you could here with window down, also clean the mass air flow sensor as found to be very dirty.
Is the air filter clean?, it made a difference when I was tracing my fault as changed to a k & N and before the fault was 2500 and after changing started at 1800rpm.
Have you a obd reader? I put lots of readings before & after fault found which you can compare. If you need anymore readings I can always check mine again.
Did you check EGR works? as putting a new one on for £50 transformed my car.
Richard
Hi there,

Thanks for the advice, I replaced the intercooler clamps last year for jubilee clips that have been holding fine. I didn't clean the exhaust manifold, did you take it off the turbo then?

I do have a code reader, which is pretty basic to be honest and it didn't have any codes but not sure how much live data it will give me.

Air filter was changed only a few months ago so should be pretty clean, fuel filter was changed around 1 year ago.

Thanks again
 

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Took the egr cooler off from turbo end, the cooler had some blocked holes but the main problem is where the egr sits on the cast iron exhaust manifold.
The manifold was full up to the bottom of the egr with soot, I vacuumed it out and cleaned it out with a bent bit of this wire.
I use a foxwell nt301 £50 but just purchased a Foxwell nt630 elite for £81 on ebay as it does much more and lifetime upgrades.
Keep us updated and if you need any reading I will always try and help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't clean the elbow where the egr valve sit, but to honest the egr valve wasn't too bad certainly much better than I was expecting.
I'll see if anybody has any ideas or previous experience with it, but I think it might be a trip to a mechanics which I really don't want to do.
 

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Hi Again,
Does your reader show boost pressure or fuel pressure?
If you can see the fuel pressure reading, you can check the clutch switch as this changes the fuel pressure when pressed.
Worth checking waste gate pipe to turbo for leak, you can apply low psi pressure to check waste gate opens/closes.
To me it still sounds like a sticking Egr valve as was surprised how much power I was down, does your reader show EGR % and also EGR % error?, never had any fault codes even when Egr % error was -92%
I take it you are not in Kent? as would check with my testers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the reply, no I'm based in the East Midlands so quite far away but thanks for the offer to take a look.

I did clean the egr valve out and it wasn't too badly gummed up, but was.working much more freely after a clean.

I'll plug my reader in to see what it can read but off memory it doesn't read that many values!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quick update, seems to be boosting well tonight when on boost. But hits a flat spot at around 2800rpm, where it feels like the turbo dies and doesn't build boost any higher revs than that.

Only happens in 3rd gear or higher so when the engine is under greater load
 

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Really could do with so live data readings to check Mass air pressure & Mass air flow readings. Under my pulsing power piece you can see all the readings, when I changed the mass air pressure sensor in top of intercooler for a cheap one (turned out to be faulty) the car run with little to no boost as sensor can only read from 0-300 kpa and was ticking over at 247 instead of 105 kpa.
This reading changes when you rev it in neutral etc.
As I said before I did all fault finding with foxwell nt-301 costs about £50 but just purchased a foxwell nt-630 which does steering as well as abs controls for £81.
If you are not getting any boost above 2800 rpm I would think it is the sensor but without a reader that does live data very hard to be sure, oem sensor was £45 and cheap one that didn't work was £18 (got full refund and told to bin sensor).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will get some live readings so I can see whats going on.

I did get a better code reader and could see that it had the following faults :
P0098 Intake air temperature sensor 2 - signal too high
p0101 mass air flow - faulty signal
p0113 intake air temperature sensor signal too high

none of these were putting the eml on, I am thinking they might be caused because I did unplug the maf and try to drive it unplugged, also tried that with the boost sensor too on the intercooler. I've cleared them for now will go back to my friend in a week and see what codes have reappeared.

The car does feel better now and is boosting harder, although I still got one occurence of the boost completly stopping at 2500 rpm.

but as before this is intermittent, so most times it will boost all the way to the red line without a problem.
 

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Sounds like the boost sensor, did you clean this with mass air flow cleaner? mine did play up once clean as must have had some crap in it.
Be interested when you get live data pressures as when I changed mine with a faulty sensor I had no power above 2200.
I purchased a Facet replacement for £45.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi there,

I have plugged the car in again tonight and now it only has the one code which was
P0098 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 - signal too high

I then got some live data readings
these were on tick over with no throttle
Intake air temperature sensor 28.2 (it was 14 outside at the time)
fuel pressure 294 - 300 bar
egr actuator 40%
Mass Air Flow 27 kg/h
boost pressure 987 hpa
vgt actuator 70%

now I am not an expert at any of this, but do these look ok?
The only one that sticks out is the intake air temperature sensor which I would presume should be the same as the outside temperature? or if its after the intercooler then lower than the outside temperature?

does anybody know where this sensor is located? I have read that it could be part of the MAF, but as its number 2 does this mean there are 2? 1 in the maf and one elsewhere? could it be part of the map sensor?

Are there any other live data readings I should be getting? worth noting that the egr percentage when revved dropped so looks like it is opening and closing.
 

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Intake air temp reading looks ok to me, when I was testing mine when I had the fault air intake temp was 42-44c as hot day 25c.
Map 105 kpa
Maf 13.50
Fuel rail pressure 30100
Baro 101

if I get a chance later I will take new readings on the drive and post them for you, try and see if I can change reader so we are reading on the same scales.
 

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Look at sensor locations the air intake temp is within the mass air sensor module after the air filter, have you taken this out and cleaned with mass air sensor cleaner? mine was very dirty.
 

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Just took some reading but couldn't find same scales as yours.
Outside temp 15c or screen on dash
ECT 85c
IAT 36c
EGR PTC 45%
MAP 105 Kpa
MAF 8.22 g/s
FPR 30100 Kpa With clutch pressed down 29880 Kpa
BARO 101 Kpa
AAT 29c
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
RichardB and MCSport thank you both for the help.

The manual has come in very handy! it looks like the intake air temperature sensor 1 is built into the maf, but the intake air temperature sensor 2 is built into the BPS sensor. so I will need to clean / replace the BPS sensor.

I am now thinking that the intake air temperature reading I Got was from the number 1 sensor, and if I got a reading from number 2 it would be out hence the error code I get. although none of the readings on the live data said sensor 1 or 2, I'll see what I can get.

RichardB does yours have Intake Air temperature 1 and 2 readings on live data? would be interested in what they are?
 

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Hi,
Looking at my readings Intake air temp (IAT) was 36c Sensor 2?
Actual air temp (AAT) was 29c Sensor 1?
Use Mass air flow sensor cleaner the one below not the cheapest but you get 300ml.
Archoil AR2810 Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner 300ml £9.95 on Ebay. When I cleaned intercooler sensor this had some oil and muck in the little hole so not sure if you can really clean it, after fitting it back in the car took a while for engine to settle down.
When you take the sensor out of the intercooler for some reason 1 bolt was really hard to get out and I used a battery drill for extra torque and shock it loose.
As I said before changed this sensor for one off Ebay for £20 which turned out not to be any good and got refund & told to throw sensor away.
I fitted a Facet 10.3178 sensor for £40 off Ebay.
Keep us updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks again, I have already taken out the map sensor and cleaned it, didn't look in bad condition at all. I'll give the dealer a ring tomorrow to see how much they'll charge otherwise I'll go on eBay and grab one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Still looking into this and will get back to you when I find a fix, I did clean the map sensor and maf sensor but that doesn't seem to have cured it fully.
 
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