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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. We have a rather older but low mileage Picanto. Great little car. It does have an intermittent problem. When about to pull away, in Drive, it just dies. Then will not turn over. Ignition lights all come on but nothing. I “think” if I take the key out and wait a minute or two, something is resetting. I want to say immobiliser but not convinced as it will not even turn over. Then when I hear the radio reset I know it will start. Really weird issue and unnerving sitting in traffic. Any ideas? Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check battery connections, particularly the body end of the ground strap (take it off and clean it up)..
Hi. Will take a look. If it were the issue why would the engine just stop but still have power at the dash etc? Engines can run without a battery (not recommended of course) so I’m not sure it matches the symptoms?
 

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If there is a poor battery connection then this can screw up all sorts of electrical systems, such as the ECU and give bizarre symptoms Dash takes very little power and may survive on low voltage. Poor ground connections seem to be something of a theme for some KIA models.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If there is a poor battery connection then this can screw up all sorts of electrical systems, such as the ECU and give bizarre symptoms Dash takes very little power and may survive on low voltage. Poor ground connections seem to be something of a theme for some KIA models.
Ah yes understood. Will take a look and update back. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Checked the battery and ground connections. All look good and checkwe with the meter... What next do we think?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so a follow up. various posts about crank shaft sensor. Including the kia Garage manual says cutting out can be crank shaft sensor. Have had it changed and it's just cut out again. Lost on ideas and really not giving us any confidence. Any one got any bright ideas?
 

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My first thought was the immobiliser too, but whilst that would stop the engine from cranking, I don't believe it wouldn't stop it running once started. A bit of a puzzler this one.

When the car dies and you then try to crank it, does the little immobiliser symbol appear and stay illuminated in the dash display? If that is the case, then the car won't crank - all the dash lights will come on, but there will be no power to the starter.

A few months ago, my remote opening started playing up a bit, so I removed the batteries from both the key fobs in case I could not unlock / disarm the alarm remotely. I now just use the key in the door lock.

While I was checking the remote opening, I had a look at the immobiliser antenna coil fitted to the steering column. It detects the key when it is placed in the ignition and allows the car to start. If the immobiliser symbol on the dash disappears when you put the key in the ignition, it's working OK - if it doesn't, that may be the problem. It's easy to get to the coil by removing the steering column shroud and you can try wiggling the connectors in case they are loose - worth a try?
 

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If there is a poor battery connection then this can screw up all sorts of electrical systems, such as the ECU and give bizarre symptoms Dash takes very little power and may survive on low voltage. Poor ground connections seem to be something of a theme for some KIA models.
Tell me about it my Carens 3 diesel wouldnt even light up but on a hunch we used a jump cable from negative battery post to the engine, Voila! it all lit up and started, one of the two earth to body bolts had sheared off and the remaining lug needed a good clean, replace it with a couple of aftermarket straps one to the chassis and one to a handy engine bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi all. So just before the UK went into lock down, the car came back from the Garage like a hairdryer on steroids. Clogged up throttle body. Cut out whilst on test and Garage really confident that's sorted it. So cheap crank and cam shaft sensors done and cleaned throttle body. Looking good so far. But now can't go anywhere! Lol. Stay safe. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So thought, for the sake of future searches perhaps, to update this one. It cut out again yesterday leaving a supermarket. Same behaviour as before. So all in all very disappointed. We’ve now checked batttery and earths, can and crank shaft sensors replaced, throttle body cleaned and adjusted. I can only surmise that it’s a remote possibility of a fuel pump issue or related filters, or a random electrical fault...
 

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sounds like a fueling problem, ask the garage to check the fuel pressure rail on a test run if the main solenoid, Fuel solenoid, fuel filter or pump are at fault that would explain the non restart the solenoids can be tested by attempting to turn the car over and giving them a tap with the head of a screwdriver, if that works change them they are only a tenner
 

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My daughter Picanto 2005 1.1 was sluggish It seemed to have a problem with cyclinder one misfireing I bought a cheap chinese injector but before it arrived gave the car a good slug of fuel system/injector cleaner and she says its running sweet as a nut
 

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Try the fuel treatment route, it may not help but it wont make things any worse and if it picks up a bit then it would suggest some sort of fuel starvation and narrow it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Try the fuel treatment route, it may not help but it wont make things any worse and if it picks up a bit then it would suggest some sort of fuel starvation and narrow it down.
Hi. Thanks for the suggestions. Would some of these not throw a code though? No codes recorded whatsoever.
 

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If the fuel rail is low it might but a restricted flow from the tank may not, chuck some injector/system cleaner in and try that, inexpensive and should really be done every third or forth tankful anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cheers. Have dropped it into the garage this morning and suggested all this. As it will not turn over after it cuts out, the garage seem to think it would still try even with low pressures etc. They are thinking ecu potentially. Sounds expensive to me!
 

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If the ECU does appear to be faulty it can be sent to a company like REMAN who will test the unit and repair if possible they charge I think a minimum £50 for this service plus extra for any costs for the repair but are a fraction of the cost of a new ECU, reprogramming etc watching wheeler dealers they also fixed a faulty anti lock braking unit for an expensive car but first things first it may just be the connections to the ECU are mucky and connecting disconnecting cleans up the pins, my daughter had a dodgy fuel relay which was causing a similar fault its a suck it and see situation especially when no codes get thrown up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If the ECU does appear to be faulty it can be sent to a company like REMAN who will test the unit and repair if possible they charge I think a minimum £50 for this service plus extra for any costs for the repair but are a fraction of the cost of a new ECU, reprogramming etc watching wheeler dealers they also fixed a faulty anti lock braking unit for an expensive car but first things first it may just be the connections to the ECU are mucky and connecting disconnecting cleans up the pins, my daughter had a dodgy fuel relay which was causing a similar fault its a suck it and see situation especially when no codes get thrown up.
Cheers for that. Yes these sorts of issues could boil down to a connection and just pure luck if it’s fixed. You never know unless it stops doing it over time! Will update on here if we get any further.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok so update: replacement ecu programmed from old ecu. Also new battery as 1 week of sitting there and battery was down to 4 volts. So time will tell if this sorts it out. Will leave it a few months and then update the thread to close it off all being well.
 
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