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2011 Sportage Horn Access. |
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gilera 
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Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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 Topic: 2011 Sportage Horn Access.Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 11:46am |
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Just taken delivery of my Sportage Drive 2lt diesel, delighted so far. I want to replace the tinny horn with a pair of decent ones i have. Have tried to remove front grille for access but no luck. Removed all screws & 2 bolts at top and two bolts at bottom but it is still held by something. Does anyone please know what else is retaining it?
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cmclough
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Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: North Bucks Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 1:04am |
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Hi Gilera,
I don't know the answer but when I/you find out I will change my car's horn to a twin tone job. (not like the moped one fitted).
One of the other forum members (blow-in) posted this information. The answer might be here or on an American forum. ->
Kia run an on-line information system which has manuals, service information and much more for all marks of Sportage. It's called the Kia Global Information System - KGIS - and it's free to use once you have registered (for free) on the web-site at kiatechinfo...
There is just one snag - for Global read North America. This means there is no coverage for CRDis for example. Much of the general information is useful of course but where is the European equivalent? Let us know when you find out.
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FE CRDT
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kia passa
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Joined: 06 Sep 2009 Location: Staffordshire Status: Offline Points: 433 |
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Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 12:08am |
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Hi KGIS seems an excellent site for the Americans and Assies.
My only concern with the Horn replacement is will the exsisting wiring be able take the extra current for a 2 tone horn?
Bob
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2009 Sportage XS 2 Ltr Diesel Auto. 2 wheel Drive.
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Sparky2009
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Joined: 25 Aug 2010 Location: Bolton, Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 6:25pm |
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Hi Gilera/Kia Passa,
Check out this link http://www.kia-forums.com/3g-2011-sportage/63326-horn.html (remember you may have to re-type the www to replace the dots when you copy and paste to your browser address bar. This shows the location of the 'hidden screws'. Regarding current rating of the wire:- I too was dubious about the thickness of the copper conductor. By the look of it, the wire appears good enough for 5-8 Amps, but I'm not sure that it will carry 10 Amps continuously. (Of course it won't get 10 A through it continuously, only for short intervals......unless a fault develops!) The operating relay is certainly good for 15Amps - I managed to find that somewhere (can't remember if it is in the handbook, or I got it from a website). Hal***ds certainly do a single tone horn that draws 5A and a pair (high and low ) that draw 10Amps. The single is better than the original horn, but the pair much better.http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?srch=car+horn&x=27&y=8&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1 The connector arrangement on UK Fe models is slightly different than the illustrations in the US link, but I easily managed to get some crimp-on shrouded spade connectors to do the job. Half**** or Mapl** have them. If you are still unhappy about the rating I suggest you get an inline waterproof fuse carrier and wire it it series with the positive feed to the horn. (M**lin again supply one which takes auto style fuses). If you do fit the twin horns remember you will need to wire them in parallel. Also the two wires to the existing horn supply the Live+ and the Earth- connection; there is no earth via the body of the horn to the chassis.(Sorry if I'm teaching my grandmother to suck eggs here) . It took me about 3 hours for the job, but some of that was preparation of the fuse and paralleling leads before I started removal of the horn. Hope this helps Sparky |
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gilera
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Joined: 09 Jan 2011 Location: Spain Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Posted: 15 Jan 2011 at 3:44pm |
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Have succeeeded in fitting twin horns, had to make a bracket for the left hand one. It is a bit tight for clearance for top cover and without blanking off rads.
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cmclough
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Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: North Bucks Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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Posted: 22 Jan 2011 at 11:13pm |
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Hello
I've just fitted the twin tone "Ring" make from Half**ds
Thank you Gilera and Sparky for making this easier with your helpful postings.
It took me a couple of hours from start to finish.
I used the brackets (bars) supplied and didn't need to do any bending cutting or fudging.
I used crimp connections from Mapl**s but bought the crimping tool from Wic**s (fiver)
Like Sparky I wanted to keep the original connector so spliced into the wires from behind and then used a bit of old bicycle inner tube as a sleeve to add a little weather protection to my connections.
I couldn't see a way of adding pics to this posting. I have an account on another forum where the pics can be seen. If you're interested you might have to register also to see them.
I'm very pleased with the result. My Sportage has it's tweet replaced with a full-on bark.
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FE CRDT
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dave.n
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Joined: 24 Jan 2011 Location: SE LONDON Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: 26 Jan 2011 at 1:57pm |
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I altered/added spot lights on a car, a few years ago. Admittedly a different make, but subsequently had a problem with the gearbox. Having altered the car I was told my warranty would be void.
I think it's totally petty and whoever noticed it and ratted on me in the workshop was a nasty little ...........*&* must be an isolated case, I must be unlucky.
So would altering a Kia make any difference to the warranty.
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cmclough
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Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: North Bucks Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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Posted: 27 Jan 2011 at 12:22pm |
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I would agree with you. This is why I've retained the original connector in place and hung on to the horn. Depending on what work needed to be carried out under warranty might result in a temporary reversal to my mod. It is relatively inconspicuous though unlike spot lamps.
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FE CRDT
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PeterT
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Joined: 03 Jan 2012 Location: Warrington Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: 07 Jan 2012 at 10:07am |
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Just fitted a pair of twin horns to my Sportage 2011. Generally followed the guidelines from others on this forum. Just a couple of points to note ...
1. Despite removing all screws / bolts to remove the top black cover, it still seemed to be held by something. However this was not the case and just a bit of moving it back and to did the trick. 2. Be careful not to let any screws/bolts drop into the void below, it's really difficult to get them back. Edited by PeterT - 07 Jan 2012 at 10:09am |
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legionaire9957
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Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Location: norfolk Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 10:01pm |
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try going through the bottom splash plate under the car
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we all make mistakes
thats why that put rubbers on pencils |
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